with the upcoming season coming around, i hope to improve my track times with a set of slicks. anyways, any suggestions on how to launch with slicks and not snap an axle? here is the setup, b18c1, t3/t4e, gsr tranny, peg legged, act clutch. thanks in advance.

 

best bet is to sorta slip the clutch to minimize shock on the driveline.. or just upgrade your axles

 

you can try pre-loading the clutch a bit to prevent such a shock to the drivetrain. of course, dmotoguy probably means the same thing when he said to slip the clutch a bit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmotoguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.. or just upgrade your axles </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this.

 

You can upgrade your axles but if you use the dump clutch method on slicks you will still break parts.

 

true. preloading takes practice.

 

vtechb20, i like your avatar...

 

ever since I got my Gator racing axles,nothing but dumping th clutch and no problems after one year.use what works for you.

 

im getting my gator axles in soon too i love dumping 6 puck unsprung clutch with heavy duty pressure plates

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecb20coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">true. preloading takes practice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm what you mean by preloading. i would love to get a set of slicks this season.

i have an si with toda cams, cm clutch and no lsd of course. i guess feather the clutch alittle.

i launch at about 3000-3500 now. so where would i launch with slicks?? anyone.

sorry to the thread starter, i thought i could ask here too. i have the same question as you

 

if you keep the rev's high and work down to a nice hook you have less chance of breaking stuff. you break from instant grap or wheel hop , not not enuff traction or too much wheel spin .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you keep the rev's high and work down to a nice hook you have less chance of breaking stuff. you break from instant grap or wheel hop , not not enuff traction or too much wheel spin .</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man, i would think i want to grip right away, but do i do it by feathering and pulling the clutch out quickly and give throttle quickly, or do i rev high and run my launches always with wheel spin even with slicks?

this is one thing that confuses me about 60' foots. everyone obviously has their own techninque, but i cant figure out if you run faster 60' foots with the littlest amount of wheel spin, or revving high and spinning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JBLSVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ever since I got my Gator racing axles,nothing but dumping th clutch and no problems after one year.use what works for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What Stage Gators? I have stage 2's and can't wait to drive the car in 2 weeks or so

 

stage 2 gators axles

 

i hear alot of people running stockers and preloading and not having any problems ...and if one does break they just put new ones in and their cheap also ...

 

What I did for an entire season on my 11 second integra w/ stock axles and ACT 6 puck was just what a couple of the other guys said. Don't have the clutch all the way disengaged when you're staging. You want to have it as close to being engaged as possible w/o actually moving the car-- all this while I was bouncing the RPM's off the rev limiter. At this point, your clutch disc is just barely touching the flywheel, but isn't touching enough to move the car, then when you get to launching, just dump it and you're out. No broken parts, no embarassment.

 

Yeah, I slip it too..

 

thanks quik chris, thats a perfect explaintion. thats wat i've been doin too but i lauch it at 55-6k rpms.. and i get hi 1.8s to lo 1.9s i just dont have the ***** to rev to 8500.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I did for an entire season on my 11 second integra w/ stock axles and ACT 6 puck was just what a couple of the other guys said. Don't have the clutch all the way disengaged when you're staging. You want to have it as close to being engaged as possible w/o actually moving the car-- all this while I was bouncing the RPM's off the rev limiter. At this point, your clutch disc is just barely touching the flywheel, but isn't touching enough to move the car, then when you get to launching, just dump it and you're out. No broken parts, no embarassment.</TD></TR></TABLE>thats the way i do it on the street ...but for the track im goin to do it but ill also use the ebrake trick because ill be holding it at a higher rpm ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I did for an entire season on my 11 second integra w/ stock axles and ACT 6 puck was just what a couple of the other guys said. Don't have the clutch all the way disengaged when you're staging. You want to have it as close to being engaged as possible w/o actually moving the car-- all this while I was bouncing the RPM's off the rev limiter. At this point, your clutch disc is just barely touching the flywheel, but isn't touching enough to move the car, then when you get to launching, just dump it and you're out. No broken parts, no embarassment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice explination. so when you use that technique and dump, do you get any wheel spin or hop? you said you have stock axles.

like i said i have an my si tranny with no lsd, but really wanna try slicks.

 

Yeah- this is with 22"/8"/15" Mickey Thompson ET Drag's, they will spin to a certain extent, but it's the best way to hook-up, much better than bogging--Once they did hook up I had about 750rpm left before shifting into 2nd. My best 60' with an open diff (GS-R Trans, stock axles), was a 1.7--and this is up at 5830ft.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah- this is with 22"/8"/15" Mickey Thompson ET Drag's, they will spin to a certain extent, but it's the best way to hook-up, much better than bogging--Once they did hook up I had about 750rpm left before shifting into 2nd. My best 60' with an open diff (GS-R Trans, stock axles), was a 1.7--and this is up at 5830ft.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info. so even if i launch high, bring up the clutch right before it engages, and dump, i should be ok??

i switch at 9k. thanks again

E Lo

 

Should be, but I'd say that's a 85-90% amount of the time, after that, the axle has been stressed to many times and will go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should be, but I'd say that's a 85-90% amount of the time, after that, the axle has been stressed to many times and will go. </TD></TR></TABLE>

why thank you

so feathering alittle would be beneficial i guess?? without bogging? or just upgrade the axles? sorry for all the questions.

 

good explanation...thats what i do i didnt know it was feathering the clutch....i thought it was dumping. i thought feathering the clutch was slowly slipping the clutch out after the launch