double clutching
ok ive asked alot of different people if double clutching helped when drag racing, some said yes, some said no, some said feathering was better, some said heel toeing was better. does double clutching work, or not? and what is it, cause ive heard some different ideas of what it is...
Double clutching is for DOWNSHIFTS last time I checked, and you tell me... When was the last time you wanted to downshift on a drag strip (not counding AFTER the finish lights)???
Hehe, yes, double clutching is for downshifting, the purpose of which is to keep the engine and the clutch plates turning at the same speed for the moment when they engage themselves. But this is from before synchromesh trannies... which leads to... heel-and-toeing which involves the brake pedal... not often used in the active part of the 1320... (you shouldn't need it once you're staged unless the darn strip is on a slope!) which is to blip the throttle with your heel as you brake with your "toes" to match revs on downshifts.
PS I forgot to add the "double clutch" part is breifly letting the clutch out as you downshift (while you're in neutral between gears) to get the clutch plates spinning up to speed without having the gear engaged.
I felt pretty sad when "The Fast And The Furious" misused that term after the illegal street drag race. Otherwise, the movie was fairly technically accurate, IIRC. Well, other than the putting SR20 engines into Civics thing... but who knows, maybe that's a winning formula...
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don't say that double clutching is for downshifting only..... ever drive a road tractor or full size 6 speed truck? double clutching becomes almost a necessity
Maybe good to split the Competition forum into two-- Autocross is somewhat similar to roadrace, but drag racing (in addition to it's irresponsible cousin street racing) is so different that information and topics really don't seem overlap.
Anyone else think so? Think differently? Two Comp. Forums, Straightline and Curved?
Yes, unfortunately this forum seems to sometimes be a bunch of elitist ****** who'd rather humiliate than educate.
You can try Kills for straight line, but I dare say you'll not get "real" answers there. Maybe try the forum that pertains to your car???
I dunno... where IS the appropriate forum to ask about chirping your tires???
r2x - aka "Elitist *****"
Well...
The forum “description" does have "and driving techniques" in it.

I think the double clutching thing with respect to drag-racing was a ploy by the clutch industry to increase the sale of aftermarket clutches. Because the clutch will die...
Willis
The forum “description" does have "and driving techniques" in it.

I think the double clutching thing with respect to drag-racing was a ploy by the clutch industry to increase the sale of aftermarket clutches. Because the clutch will die...

Willis
I know that I jave flamed my share of people in the past but I am begining to realize that people who really know tend not to give these questions the hardest time, they seem to offer more constructive crticism. The people posting/asking these questions ethier know what they are asking so they can get a rise out of others or they just really don't know and need to be educated constructivly. Maybe there should be two seperate forums, but it seems that drag racing questions tend to get answered within the forum of that car. It also seems that this whole web board is moving away from educational one to a place for people to flex their muscles. Our sport along with our interest in import cars is guided and judged by all of us, not just one or two individuals. Helping people instead of making them feel stupid and angry at fellow enthusiasts makes for very slow progress into the future. I don't want this to sound like a "why can't we all get along speech" but come on this flaming of others is beginning to cross a certain line.
Just my .02 cents
Just my .02 cents
Actually, honest to goodness drag racing questions are relevant in the racing forum.
In a Pro Solo, what is the best launch technique? The same as it is at the drag strip (roughly, though tire pressures will differ).
The problem is, most folks seem to use drag racing and "street" racing interchangably. They are not.
I'd love to see someone come and ask which drive axle gets a greater torque bias (one does). Then, the solution to that, is to do tricks like shimming the front sway bar on one side to favor the axle that tends to get light, this will keep a better contact patch on both wheels (I learned that on a web site dedicated to drag racing Dodge Minivans! - a 12 second minivan is a scary thought!).
Of course, I digress.
Drag racing is fun, many of us Tarheel Sports Car Club folks ahve done it and had a great time. The thing is, we *really* were drag racing.
Next you get into the best launch for consistency (for bracket racing - that is really fun!).
The tricks do vary, but engineering is just math, and last I knew, when done right, math is a pretty uniform thing.
Scott
PS: No need to double clutch on the upshifts.
In a Pro Solo, what is the best launch technique? The same as it is at the drag strip (roughly, though tire pressures will differ).
The problem is, most folks seem to use drag racing and "street" racing interchangably. They are not.
I'd love to see someone come and ask which drive axle gets a greater torque bias (one does). Then, the solution to that, is to do tricks like shimming the front sway bar on one side to favor the axle that tends to get light, this will keep a better contact patch on both wheels (I learned that on a web site dedicated to drag racing Dodge Minivans! - a 12 second minivan is a scary thought!).
Of course, I digress.
Drag racing is fun, many of us Tarheel Sports Car Club folks ahve done it and had a great time. The thing is, we *really* were drag racing.
Next you get into the best launch for consistency (for bracket racing - that is really fun!).
The tricks do vary, but engineering is just math, and last I knew, when done right, math is a pretty uniform thing.
Scott
PS: No need to double clutch on the upshifts.
Just to let you guys in on something.. When my tranny syncro's did get weak, I often had to double clutch not to grind 3rd and 5th gears.. ON UPSHIFTING! Yes, UPSHIFTING
It does work if you have a grinding problem, but results in slower shifts.. But I did practice and made double clutching on the upshift work, so I could mesh the gears better.. I did this the last two track events I went to at JC.. Got a new tranny now, and there is no need to double clutch on it..
It does work if you have a grinding problem, but results in slower shifts.. But I did practice and made double clutching on the upshift work, so I could mesh the gears better.. I did this the last two track events I went to at JC.. Got a new tranny now, and there is no need to double clutch on it..
Honda318dx:
Not to question your truthfullness, but why would you double clutch on an upshift? You find that the engine slows down the clutch plates or what-not more quickly than they do on their own? Is it possible that just the extra time involved is what made the difference? Or did you actually let the engine RPM drop and then blip the throttle back up to where it needs to be?
Not to question your truthfullness, but why would you double clutch on an upshift? You find that the engine slows down the clutch plates or what-not more quickly than they do on their own? Is it possible that just the extra time involved is what made the difference? Or did you actually let the engine RPM drop and then blip the throttle back up to where it needs to be?
As a former 18 wheel truck driver I can tell you that double clutch up shifts can help smooth things out. The trick is that you do it differently than a double down. Here's how:
1. Clutch in
2. Shifter to neutral
3. Pause WITH CLUTCH IN to allow engine rvs to slow
4. Clutch out to get lay shaft to slow to engine speed which is now at correct speed for new gear
5. Clutch in and quickly...
6. Shifter to next higher gear and quickly...
7. Clutch out.
This differs from a double down:
1. Clutch in and quickly...
2. Shifter to neutral and quickly...
3. Clutch out and quickly...
4. Rev match to next lower gear to speed up lay shaft
5. Clutch in and quickly...
6. Shifter to lower gear and quickly...
7 Clutch out
Of course since OTR use straight cut gears, if you are fast you can upshift without clutching at all. You can even power shift (no lift). All it takes for any of these techniques is really good timing.
OTR drivers shift so often and drive so many miles that this kind of thing gets instinctive. That's one of the reasons why I like stock class so much. I get to drive my car more often than 5 minutes a week and get to practice allthe shifter techniques that I will need while competition driving in the car that I compete in.
Regards,
Alan
1. Clutch in
2. Shifter to neutral
3. Pause WITH CLUTCH IN to allow engine rvs to slow
4. Clutch out to get lay shaft to slow to engine speed which is now at correct speed for new gear
5. Clutch in and quickly...
6. Shifter to next higher gear and quickly...
7. Clutch out.
This differs from a double down:
1. Clutch in and quickly...
2. Shifter to neutral and quickly...
3. Clutch out and quickly...
4. Rev match to next lower gear to speed up lay shaft
5. Clutch in and quickly...
6. Shifter to lower gear and quickly...
7 Clutch out
Of course since OTR use straight cut gears, if you are fast you can upshift without clutching at all. You can even power shift (no lift). All it takes for any of these techniques is really good timing.
OTR drivers shift so often and drive so many miles that this kind of thing gets instinctive. That's one of the reasons why I like stock class so much. I get to drive my car more often than 5 minutes a week and get to practice allthe shifter techniques that I will need while competition driving in the car that I compete in.
Regards,
Alan
00R101: I had read somewhere that 18 wheelers don't have a synchromesh transmission. Is this true?
Any/All: Do any properly working competition vehicles require double clutch upshifting? I can't possibly see any reason to design a racing transmission that way, except for maybe some enduro car. The time lost double clutching on upshift seems just too great. Double clutching/rev matching on downshift can be done under braking, on upshift, it's just lost time.
Any/All: Do any properly working competition vehicles require double clutch upshifting? I can't possibly see any reason to design a racing transmission that way, except for maybe some enduro car. The time lost double clutching on upshift seems just too great. Double clutching/rev matching on downshift can be done under braking, on upshift, it's just lost time.
I heard triple-clutching is even faster. In fact one guy even said he pulls harder in between shifts than when he is actually in gear.
/me presses the clutch 30 times in quick succession
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