I have done some searches and have not seen any comments on the Kaiten flywheel. Everyone seems to like the ACT or Toda. The Kaiten flywheel goes for about the same as the ACT and a lot less than the Toda. From what I have researched the Kaiten brand is used alot in Japan. If it is a good quality one I will get one over the ACT or Toda I was considering. What is everyone's opinion.

http://www.fullthrottlenyc.com...shtml

What clutch should I match up with it? I was thinking about using a local supplier Bully which has stock fell but more hold or another stock ITR clutch. I run my car about 15% on the track and rest is street.

Thanks,

AW

 

I have Toda but what is really wrong with comptech besides that one incident posted before?

 

Comptech Al FW and stock clutch is nice for what you do with the car.

 

Toda is my favorite but Kaiten is a Nice piece, especially for the Money.
I'd go with the Super Lightweight which is similar in design to Toda.
We also have them in stock and on special $280 (For the Super Light)

 

Kaiten might be the one I go with. How much power is the Type R clutch rated for. I have used my first one when the motor was stock and up to 181 hp the clutch seemed fine. Now I am up to over 190 HP at the wheels with the Skunk2 cams. Will a new ITR clutch hold this power? I really like the stock feel so if I switch I want something similar in feel.

MikeM

IM how much it would cost(Kaiten flywheel) shipped to Zip code 11747

Thanks,

AW

 

I finally got my Kaiten Super Lightweight flywheel installed and another ITR clutch. Car revs slightly better than my lightened GSR flywheel (12 lbs). Flywheel makes a different sound when I start the car now. I assume it is because of the holes at the top of the flywheel where the stock one is solid. So far so good. I need to drive some more to break in the clutch but I can tell it will rev easier the higher I take it.

By the way when I replaced my clutch the friction disk looked great after 30K KM of hard driving. Shows you how good the stock ITR clutch is. My car makes about 190 hp at the wheels and it still held that power very good. I just put a new one in since the flywheel was out.

Also, I couldn't tell how many KM's I was driving because the damn VSS broke as well. I had it replaced and still had a problem, replaced with another one and all is good. Let me just say when you get used to seeing how fast the tach moves, seeing the speedo move again made me think it was broken because of how slow it moved in comparison....

 

exedy is still my favorite


I am a big fan of the fins that it has to draw air over the clutch to help keep it cool.

Plus the fact that it is tested at 15k rpm and the ring gear is milled out of the flywheel is pretty sweet also.

 

Comptech

 

Just wondering, but isn't the Fidanza lighter than all of the flywheels you are asking about? (Toda, Kaiten, ACT)

 

I wouldn't choose any of those...

For that none of them come w/ a replacable "friction disc"

Waste of Money IMO.


Comptech, Fidanza, Clutchmasters..

Worth it.

 

Comptech 6.7lb FW and ACT Clutch.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=463863&page=1

 

Get the toda...I slept with mine the first night!!!

 

i want to run the kaiten super light with an exedy stage 3...should be a good setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVIL_EKology &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering, but isn't the Fidanza lighter than all of the flywheels you are asking about? (Toda, Kaiten, ACT)</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not overall mass but where the mass is located...

 

Cusco Flywheel and Clutch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't choose any of those...

For that none of them come w/ a replacable "friction disc"

Waste of Money IMO.


Comptech, Fidanza, Clutchmasters..

Worth it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just curious what is so great about a replacable friction disc?

I just got my exedy resurfaced and it was like new again... cost me 27 bucks. How many times can you resurface a Exedy flywheel? 5+ times? Figure 50k miles per clutch w/ harsh driving = a flywheel that will last 250k miles....

How much is the replaceable friction surface? I know you can resurface those too, ive seen those get resurfaced as well.

I guess my question is why would you prefer aluminum over chromoly?

Doesnt one entire solid part sound better then a ring gear, alum flywheel and then a friction surface?

Im really curious on your opinion. Price wise... they seem pretty close to eachother. It is intresting that ACT chose to go the chromoly route over making alum flywheels as well.

I'm not saying Alum sux, I just want a different perspective from someone that prefers a replacable friction surface and an alum flywheel. I am totally uneducated when it comes to the advantages of alum over chromoly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just curious what is so great about a replacable friction disc?

I just got my exedy resurfaced and it was like new again... cost me 27 bucks. How many times can you resurface a Exedy flywheel? 5+ times? Figure 50k miles per clutch w/ harsh driving = a flywheel that will last 250k miles....

How much is the replaceable friction surface? I know you can resurface those too, ive seen those get resurfaced as well.

I guess my question is why would you prefer aluminum over chromoly?

Doesnt one entire solid part sound better then a ring gear, alum flywheel and then a friction surface?

Im really curious on your opinion. Price wise... they seem pretty close to eachother. It is intresting that ACT chose to go the chromoly route over making alum flywheels as well.

I'm not saying Alum sux, I just want a different perspective from someone that prefers a replacable friction surface and an alum flywheel. I am totally uneducated when it comes to the advantages of alum over chromoly
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Replacable friction disc are great beacuse you run any clutch you want to with out any fears... puck clutchs creates a lip on the friction disc from eating at it.

what if you get "hot spots" on your fly? get it machined all the way down till they're gone?

Replacable friction disc are $50 (clutchmasters)

The ring gear situation.. thats why I also listed Comptech. They make a chromoly one w/ a replacable friction disc. (for the people "against alum")

I have no opinion over alum/chromoly... I've ran aluminums all the time.. no problems so I can't complain.

 

Another vote for the Comptech 6.75lbs AL.

Go light or go home.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its not overall mass but where the mass is located...</TD></TR></TABLE>

bingo! listen to the Doc

if you ever look at a toda, you'll see that most of the mass is located around the center of rotation

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 FBP ItR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Replacable friction disc are great beacuse you run any clutch you want to with out any fears... puck clutchs creates a lip on the friction disc from eating at it.

what if you get "hot spots" on your fly? get it machined all the way down till they're gone?

Replacable friction disc are $50 (clutchmasters)

The ring gear situation.. thats why I also listed Comptech. They make a chromoly one w/ a replacable friction disc. (for the people "against alum")

I have no opinion over alum/chromoly... I've ran aluminums all the time.. no problems so I can't complain.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool thats a good point


I never looked at it from the hard core racer point of view... putting hot spots on a flywheel def makes getting a replacable surface much more desirable when using heavy pressure plate with puck


Thx for not bashing me I just didnt know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cool thats a good point


I never looked at it from the hard core racer point of view... putting hot spots on a flywheel def makes getting a replacable surface much more desirable when using heavy pressure plate with puck


Thx for not bashing me I just didnt know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No need to bash, Just opening people eyes...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

bingo! listen to the Doc

if you ever look at a toda, you'll see that most of the mass is located around the center of rotation </TD></TR></TABLE>

I see. But my mind keeps telling me that it would be more beneficial to have the weight towards the outside of the flywheel to give it added momentum or enertia while spinning. I'm guessing this is wrong? Could someone explain the benefit of having the weight centered rather than towards the outside?

 

I believe it takes less energy to spin the weight if it was more towards the center.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its not overall mass but where the mass is located...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Preach it brotha!

I=mR(squared)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR 599 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe it takes less energy to spin the weight if it was more towards the center.</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct, the more mass towards the center (COM=center of mass) the less the moment of inertia.


Try this: stand on a chair that rotates.. get some dumbells or other slightly heavy object, and hold them out as far as your arms will stretch perpendicular from your body.

Next: bring the dumbell or weight in toward your chest, and you will begin to accelerate (rotate) faster..

DISCLAIMER:...make sure you don't fall off the chair