I took the 94 hatch to a very reputable chassis shop, that normally does domestic stuff, and other hardcore chassis work. I think he said he had done a roll cage in a couple civics and a couple BMWs.

I am very confident in his work, but I wanted to see what you guys thought of his "design". I never really checked out many roll cages in civics.

I told the guy that i wanted to be legal to run in the 10's.

here she is.

 

I like it, now paint that sucker.

EVIL

 

Thats a normal 6-point rollbar charlie, I thought yu were getting a 10pt or something.

 

damn, that looks nice..ill have to check that out when i swing by and drop off your pressure washer

 

hmm nah i dunno man... i just told him legal to run 10s, and he said thats what i need. hope hes right. i dont want the pillar bars yet... not ready for a car that hardcore.

 

you need the brace on the back of the seat. and if you dont have the brace, the seat should be tight up against the shoulder bar.

 

thats the right cage for 10.0s....but I just thought yu were goin crazier.

 

2.2Lcivic, do I need that for sure? He said that he didnt think I needed that at this point, but said he could put it in any time if i wanted to.

 

i would do it just to be sure.

you can check the rule book, but im almost positive it has to be that way.

looks good though.

 

thanks... ill post more pics later tonight. i got most of it painted and i got some of the **** back together its looking a lot nicer. looked so messy in the first pics.

 

Is it just the pictures? or have all the welds been ground smooth???

Clayton

 

nope the welds have not been grinded. they are nice and perfect, and unground.

 

Cool deal, my bad. Looks great man ( pics don't do it justice do they?)

 

i dont think you can grind you welds for nhra. but i cant tell if they are ground or just really nice

 

Looks good

 

looks good bro!! looks diesel!!

 

Looks good now paint it. Hey how much weight did you add?

 

The guy who did it for me estimated 90lb or so, but he wasnt sure exactly. I would have to measure the length of all the bar, and then find out what it weighs per foot in this diameter and wall thickness, and then assume a few more lb's for the mounting points.

For more info on this car I have been building since like i bought it in hmm I think august (my first honda!), look at this thread and the other threads it links to about even older updates. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=690642

Here are some updated pics, I been working on the car the last few hours. I plan to run the car with this ammount of interior, plus the seats, just have to finish painting and cleaning. Its coming out pretty nice, but the floor area in the back needs a lot of work still, and painting the top of the cage is gonna be a real pain.

Sorry about the dark pics, my camera is seriously old as fuq. its a classic... im up to 2835 pictures on it!







-Charles




Modified by mister2racer at 7:23 AM 2/29/2004

 

i like how you are not gutting the car, and puttin all the plastick back in looks better that way.

 

Would that be and Alston job by any chance, thats where I went to get my car done..... Great guys, very big followers of the RSD's at Great Lakes....

 

It was done by Competition Fabrications. They are just west of St Charles, IL.

Their website is http://www.compfab.com , based on what he did for me, and all the cool *** **** i seen at his shop... I highly recommend them.

-Charles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2Lcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need the brace on the back of the seat. and if you dont have the brace, the seat should be tight up against the shoulder bar. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Could you elaborate on this a little more? A pic would be worth a thousand words.

 

you can put in a bar that attaches to the harness bar and basically braces the seat in its position. This is because if in a collision the seat were to move closer to the harness bar, then the harness would no longer be tight on the occupant.

 

I'm not quoting the rulebook but I believe to run 10.99 or faster you need teh seat brace on the shoulder bar unless the back of the seat is actually right up against it. For me and other vertically challanged guys we would more than likely need the brace otherwise proper shifting would be a bitch. Oh yeah, a 6 pointer like that will do for 10.99 and faster but not 9.99 and faster or over 135mph. Again, not quoting but I'm pretty sure you need an 8 or 10 point(can't remember which) for over 135mph in nhra at least.

 

Love the roll bar...looks just like mines...haha

sorry to butt in, but I was told that the bar in the rear that goes from shock tower to tower with the 2 points coming from the hoop is NOT LEGAL...is that true? If so, how should it be?

thanks