Ok, I have a 2000 R with a turbo in it. Check it out here http://www.scottstyper.s5.com I am a moron and i need to know what to do next. I am so afraid of blowing the motor but i don't want to do all the the work and not get a lot of power. Someone told me that all i have to do is sleeve the block, raise the boost, and tune it and i could make like 300 whp. I have no idea what is involved in sleeving the block and how much it would cost me. Exactly what do I have to do to make it as safe as possible and still have some nice power gains. Right now I am only puting down about 200 at the wheels. Please help me. Thanks.

 

you need to post the setup.

you also might get better help in the FI forum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 2000 R with a turbo in it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Who put it there

 

My setup is just a bone stock 2000 ITR with a rev hard kit put on it. I am running about 6 psi. Everything is stock. (even ecu).

 

That is unbelieveable that you put a turbo on a car and don't know a thing about it....if you don't want to blow it up, I STRONGLY suggest you do A TON of research and get the thing tuned....

Honestly? I wouldn't be surprised if you blew it up....you could and probably are running EXTREMELY lean when the turbo is boosting....

*Shakes head*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My setup is just a bone stock 2000 ITR with a rev hard kit put on it. I am running about 6 psi. Everything is stock. (even ecu).</TD></TR></TABLE>

I retract my prior sarcastic statement. I'll replace it with, WTF where you thinking?

Check out the Forced Induction Forum on this site ASAP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr 00 0108 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is unbelievable that you put a turbo on a car and don't know a thing about it....if you don't want to blow it up, I STRONGLY suggest you do A TON of research and get the thing tuned....

Honestly? I wouldn't be surprised if you blew it up....you could and probably are running EXTREMELY lean when the turbo is boosting....

*Shakes head*</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah STOP driving it if you care about your caR. Go find someone who knows what to do, but be prepared to spend some money.

 

doh!

 

ok, first thing, is i am looking for what to do next, not just everyone to tell me i screwed up. I realize i may not have made the best decisions, but all your comments are not helping. I am looking for help on what to do to remedy the situation i am in. Also, the car was put on the dyno and the a/f ratios were looked at and i am running a little rich. NOT LEAN. i may be stupid but not that stupid.

 

We're just concered that's all. Did you try a search? Or did you check out the forced induction forum?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, first thing, is i am looking for what to do next, not just everyone to tell me i screwed up. I realize i may not have made the best decisions, but all your comments are not helping. I am looking for help on what to do to remedy the situation i am in. Also, the car was put on the dyno and the a/f ratios were looked at and i am running a little rich. NOT LEAN. i may be stupid but not that stupid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

To understand the grand scheme..you must understand the basics.

I would read/learn/indulge/memorize everything possible concerning FI. We can't just give you a *magical answer*. You are going to be the one making the conclusions/ultimate decision.

Not saying we won't help, but there is no reason you cant help yourself.

 

I just posted on the Forced induction sites, but anyone who knows anything good please help me. Also, I'm sorry if i sounded mad, i'm not, i just don't want this to be a forum of people telling me what i did wrong. I just need advice. Thanks for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just posted on the Forced induction sites, but anyone who knows anything good please help me. Also, I'm sorry if i sounded mad, i'm not, i just don't want this to be a forum of people telling me what i did wrong. I just need advice. Thanks for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

We aren't trying to make you paranoid..everyone has to learn somewhere.

I would try learning 1 aspect @a time..ie instead of "I need HELP PLEASE!!" try. "advantages to sleeving a block" or "Should I sleeve my block?"

Before doing this, search for "sleeving block" "block" "sleeve" "reliability" etc..etc.

Also whenever you post you should give a full detail of your setup(that may be in your link :bonk: me for not reading it, and I understand you said your car is stock w/revhard kit) so we have a better idea of what is going on.

 

Im curious how you are running rich on the stock ecu and stock injectors on b00st??? that doesnt add up...

you have to figure out what you want to do with the car. Im guessing you can make considerably more power just by getting some kind of tuning device and tuning the **** out of it. However, being that its on the stock block, I wouldnt push it too hard and keep the boost about where its at. If you want to boost more, you will need to sleeve the block and probably get some better pistons/rings/rods combo that can take the beating. its a lot of work and you would need to send the block out to have it sleeved and whatnot. but I wouldnt drive it too much the way it is until you atleast get some kinda tuning done. Im surprised the stock ecu can even handle that. My stock ECu couldnt even handle bigger injectors with a little more compression...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I have a 2000 R with a turbo in it. Check it out here http://www.scottstyper.s5.com I am a moron and i need to know what to do next. I am so afraid of blowing the motor but i don't want to do all the the work and not get a lot of power. Someone told me that all i have to do is sleeve the block, raise the boost, and tune it and i could make like 300 whp. I have no idea what is involved in sleeving the block and how much it would cost me. Exactly what do I have to do to make it as safe as possible and still have some nice power gains. Right now I am only puting down about 200 at the wheels. Please help me. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't need to sleeve the block to get 300whp, but it would be a safe thing to do.. benson sleeves seem to be "da thing" right now and seem reasoably priced and good quality.

- under 1000 to send and get sleeves installed (benson sleeves)
- under 1000 for pistons/rods (your average piston/rod setup)
- about 115 for arp rods (you might as well get them)
- under 450 for replacement seals/bearings/gaskets.. (this includes headgasket set and lower gasket set)
- water pump/oil pump/timing belt/tenstioner - under 500? - if needed
- engine removal/installation and rebuild/blueprinting/balancing/machine work or - whatever else involved - that would depend on whos doing the work.. (and that could be in $$$$ digits)
- larger injectors and clips/intank fuel pump/standalone ecu setup.. like hondata will require obd1 ecu + harness
- boost controller? under $350 for good EBC.

what kinda of turbo do you have? (specs) and what is your ideal goal.. would this be daily driver? how long do you want it to last?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im curious how you are running rich on the stock ecu and stock injectors on b00st??? that doesnt add up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's running FMU with inline pump, that pump is inside engine bay and creates really high pressure providing enough fuel, FMU should work in concept but you place more stress on injectors/fuel lines/regulator and its not as precise as to have ing larger injectors with intank fuel pump with custom maps.

 

THis car is a daily driver, however it would not be driver very frequently in the winters because I am going to college and I am not taking it. One important thing is that the car has 42,000 miles on it and I want it to last a while, a long while if possible.

 

If you want it to last a long while...keep it stock....take the turbo off....and just drive it....

 

you want it to be reliable get a reliable fuel management setup. I blew up my stock motor using an FMU. Get a standalone some bigger injectors and some tuning. Read up on turbo hondas too. If you don't know what to look or listen for, kiss your motor goodbye. Just because your A/F is on doesn't mean your timing isn't going to damage your motor. Boost + N/A Timing = Kabooooom! I know.

 

if you want it to last longer, upgrade your fuel managment and keep it a low boost.

2nd, dont expect to push 300whp and have it last for a long time, be prepared to rebuild it when time comes.. anywhere from 20-50-60K is where i'd predict a boosted setup would last, if you don't push it often and keep low boost, it may last a 80-100K before rings let go. there are too many variables to really tell, if you running more lean, or your timing is off, or just the age of the motor and gaskets, poor cooling or fluids levels and just a heavy foot.

DC2R714 brings a good point about timing, you can get some type of msd timing control but its much better to run hondata like setup.

 

Seriously, invest in proper fuel management and lots of tuning.

 

I have been talking to several people with boosted R's and one of them has has a similar setp as me and he has had it at 10 psi for almost 3 years and had no problems so far. So here is what i am considering doing.

Thermal 3" Exhaust
High Flow Catalytic Converter
Custom 3" Downpipe
550cc Injectors
AEM EMS OR and Hondata System
Fuel Rail
Dyno Tuning!!!!!

I will leave the boost at what it is for now (like 6 psi). Do you think i should and/or shouldn't do any of those mods stated above. Also, which system, the AEM or Hondata, i have heard hondata is better and can save money, but what are your opinions. Thanks.

 

Turbo=kabboooommmmm!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITRSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have been talking to several people with boosted R's and one of them has has a similar setp as me and he has had it at 10 psi for almost 3 years and had no problems so far. So here is what i am considering doing.

Thermal 3" Exhaust
High Flow Catalytic Converter
Custom 3" Downpipe
550cc Injectors
AEM EMS OR and Hondata System
Fuel Rail
Dyno Tuning!!!!!

I will leave the boost at what it is for now (like 6 psi). Do you think i should and/or shouldn't do any of those mods stated above. Also, which system, the AEM or Hondata, i have heard hondata is better and can save money, but what are your opinions. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need a fuel rail to run 550's the stock one will work, I run 720cc injectors with a stock rail. Don't use a cat you'll gain more power. Thermal is pretty expensive. You can do a full custom 3" for alot less. Also do a search for AEM and Hondata there are so many threads on this subject.

 

you can dyno tune all day long but that doesnt mean you can run 10psi safely on the stock block. Just because your friend has done it for awhile doesnt mean yours will be the same. if you are gonna boost it, do it the safe way and sleeve it or else you will just end up blowing the motor and have to start from scratch and sleeve it anyway. save yourself the hassle in the long run. if you are keeping the boost where its at, just get some bigger injectors(dont need a fuel rail) and an engine management device and tune the hell out of it. tuning is what brings it all together in the end.