56k your in trouble, hit back button now, then get with the program

also anybody correct me if im wrong on anything, and you know 100% sure your right, or im wrong, if you THINK im wrong on anything PM me so it doesnt go here and confuse somebody, ill find out and post the correction


im looking at #3
which one do i need for the manual transmission conversion mount

edit im sorry the transmission code is KA5MT
its the 49 state emission legal
california emssions tranny code is KL5MT

the diagrams for engine and transmission mounts are the same for automatic and manual transmission codes, im working on deciphering this problem

this is for a 88DX

parts needed:

shift linkage
shifter
bushings and dust seal
brake pedal
clutch pedal
manual trans. Mounts
manual Ecu
manual tranny
shift boot
clutch
flywheel
flywheel cover
flywheel cover bolts

part#86866 diagram#003 RUBBER, TRANS MTG NO COLOR $47.17


im gonna tackle this
and when i do ill post as much information as i can so people will have answers
right now im sifting through about 100 threads to find all the information i need

also check back on this ill be adding information as i go



focus on #12 and #13, here the plate is $5bux and the boot is $20bux


counter shaft *exc. gears* = $220







<U>PROPS TO 90blackcrx FOR THIS INFO AND PICTURES:</U>

Side trans mount and rear trans mount from a manual, the pedals will probably be the hardest part. Here is some more wiring to help you out.

Installing the pedals (have fun):

This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.

Removal of the transmission:

To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel (make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts).

Installing shift linkage

This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be. Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.




Installing the transmission:

Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in.

Wiring with diagrams:

Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below



I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work.



This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch.






Modified by 88JPRCRX at 3:57 PM 2/10/2004

 

When you were searching on HAP, you searched for a manual tranny car right? It will only list the part for the mount that applies to that tranny. It will either show #3 or #4 as the part available for you to buy.... the other number won't show in the list and you can't buy it.

The same applies with the rear motor mount (#9 or #10).

 

Master cylinder
Slave cylinder
clutch lines
clutch resorvoir

You don't need the items listed above unless you are trying to convert
to a hydralic clutch...

 

fixed

 

iam probably going with cable i think it is easier than hydrolic

 

56k hahahaha