Does switching from p/s rack to non p/s rack require alignment?
I have pulled p/s from my DA, but havent been able to find a non p/s rack to replace what I have. When I do will it require an alignment? I was also wondering if I leave the p/s rack in the car, without any kind of looping, what is the worst that can happen, and how likely is the worst case scenerio?
Thanks
Thanks
When I put a manual rack in my DC2, I needed an alignment becuase the tie rod settings where done on the previous car, so the same will happen for you.
If you convert the PS to Manual you should consider buying the breather kit. Search on H-T and you will see someone who is selling the kits.
If you convert the PS to Manual you should consider buying the breather kit. Search on H-T and you will see someone who is selling the kits.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,948
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by giff74 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have pulled p/s from my DA, but havent been able to find a non p/s rack to replace what I have. When I do will it require an alignment? I was also wondering if I leave the p/s rack in the car, without any kind of looping, what is the worst that can happen, and how likely is the worst case scenerio?
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't suggest swapping to a manual rack because manual Civic racks have a slower ratio, which makes it a little easier to turn the wheel, but there are more turns lock-to-lock, i.e. you would have to turn the steering wheel more to steer the front wheels the same amount.
And yes you will need an alignment if the tie-rod ends are ever disconnected.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't suggest swapping to a manual rack because manual Civic racks have a slower ratio, which makes it a little easier to turn the wheel, but there are more turns lock-to-lock, i.e. you would have to turn the steering wheel more to steer the front wheels the same amount.
And yes you will need an alignment if the tie-rod ends are ever disconnected.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't suggest swapping to a manual rack because manual Civic racks have a slower ratio, which makes it a little easier to turn the wheel, but there are more turns lock-to-lock, i.e. you would have to turn the steering wheel more to steer the front wheels the same amount.
And yes you will need an alignment if the tie-rod ends are ever disconnected.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you ever driven a Teg with this done? I have an teg with a Civic rack and there is not a great difference. Unless you plan or Auto-x or Tracking alot then it is worth it. On the street it is nice to drive with, also a reassurance that the rack in your car is being used the way it was designed to.
Also the weight savings are great
And yes you will need an alignment if the tie-rod ends are ever disconnected.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you ever driven a Teg with this done? I have an teg with a Civic rack and there is not a great difference. Unless you plan or Auto-x or Tracking alot then it is worth it. On the street it is nice to drive with, also a reassurance that the rack in your car is being used the way it was designed to.
Also the weight savings are great
I also don't recommend a manual rack in the DA. Most will say it makes the steering feel better or it's a huge weight reduction, but it's not worth the increased effort or decreased steering precision. I've driven numerous cars with manual racks, and the only difference I can tell is the wheel is harder to turn at low speeds. Doesn't feel different to me at all. If you want to do this, you can only use EF Civic racks.
You might want to try to bypass the variable assist the DA rack has. I imagine if you were able to override the low speed inputs, you would get an even better lock to lock ratio all the time...
DA Integra ALL: 3.7 turns lock to lock
EF Civic HF: 3.9 tuns lock to lock
EF Civic DX/Si: 4.1 turns lock to lock
You might want to try to bypass the variable assist the DA rack has. I imagine if you were able to override the low speed inputs, you would get an even better lock to lock ratio all the time...
DA Integra ALL: 3.7 turns lock to lock
EF Civic HF: 3.9 tuns lock to lock
EF Civic DX/Si: 4.1 turns lock to lock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,948
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to try to bypass the variable assist the DA rack has. I imagine if you were able to override the low speed inputs, you would get an even better lock to lock ratio all the time...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't understand that part. The ratio remains the same all the time, regardless of the amount of power assist. If you remove the power steering anyway, then the variable assist function is obviously gone also.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't understand that part. The ratio remains the same all the time, regardless of the amount of power assist. If you remove the power steering anyway, then the variable assist function is obviously gone also.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arsenal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you convert the PS to Manual you should consider buying the breather kit. Search on H-T and you will see someone who is selling the kits.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does anyone know who sells this for the DA? I have talked with Padawan and he doesnt have a working model for the DA.
If you convert the PS to Manual you should consider buying the breather kit. Search on H-T and you will see someone who is selling the kits.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does anyone know who sells this for the DA? I have talked with Padawan and he doesnt have a working model for the DA.
So no one on this site knows the functions of a loop-back and breather and how they are modified into the system?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't understand that part. The ratio remains the same all the time, regardless of the amount of power assist. If you remove the power steering anyway, then the variable assist function is obviously gone also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me either. I know that the DA is unique because it has a variable assist power rack. At speeds below 30 MPH the wheel is easier to turn than at higher speeds. I myself am not clear on whether this is a result of a variable ratio or magic, but I can really feel the difference. Somehow all this silliness is caused by those 4 lines coming from the "VSS"...
I didn't understand that part. The ratio remains the same all the time, regardless of the amount of power assist. If you remove the power steering anyway, then the variable assist function is obviously gone also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me either. I know that the DA is unique because it has a variable assist power rack. At speeds below 30 MPH the wheel is easier to turn than at higher speeds. I myself am not clear on whether this is a result of a variable ratio or magic, but I can really feel the difference. Somehow all this silliness is caused by those 4 lines coming from the "VSS"...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen92acintls »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So no one on this site knows the functions of a loop-back and breather and how they are modified into the system?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have trying to find someone that knows how to do it for this car and not had any luck either.
I have trying to find someone that knows how to do it for this car and not had any luck either.
Ive done it.
1. Take out all power steering equip down to the rack with one barb and one threaded hole.
2. Turn the wheel all the way left and right hard to get about 1/2 the fluid out of the rack. The fluid is only needed for lubrication at this point, not pressure to drive the rack.
3. Get a 1/4" NPT thread barb and put it into the rack next to the barb that is already there with teflon tape on the threads.
4. Now loop the rack back on to itself with some of the left over hoses you removed. One of them is about a perfect fit with a little cutting.
5. Cut the loop in the middle. Get a "T" or "Y" barb fitting and put it in your cut loop.
6. run the other hose up to a breather.
After adding the breather, steering was much easier than with just a belt removed or just the looped rack.
And for some pics and more info, check out this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=184202
I put the "T" in the first picture's loop on the link
*EDIT*
Theres a pic of almost exactly what I did on the second page...
1. Take out all power steering equip down to the rack with one barb and one threaded hole.
2. Turn the wheel all the way left and right hard to get about 1/2 the fluid out of the rack. The fluid is only needed for lubrication at this point, not pressure to drive the rack.
3. Get a 1/4" NPT thread barb and put it into the rack next to the barb that is already there with teflon tape on the threads.
4. Now loop the rack back on to itself with some of the left over hoses you removed. One of them is about a perfect fit with a little cutting.
5. Cut the loop in the middle. Get a "T" or "Y" barb fitting and put it in your cut loop.
6. run the other hose up to a breather.
After adding the breather, steering was much easier than with just a belt removed or just the looped rack.
And for some pics and more info, check out this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=184202
I put the "T" in the first picture's loop on the link
*EDIT*
Theres a pic of almost exactly what I did on the second page...
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