This is directly from Lightning Audio's website.

Since we do not put "indicators" or markings on the side of the amp to indicate gain levels for specific input voltages, this is where you will have to do a little "educated guessing" to set the controls up correctly. An oscilloscope's signal-measuring capabilities would come in handy right about now, as you could read the output levels of the amplifier while playing test tones (like a 1KHz tone) to determine at what point your amplifier "clips", and that's where you stop turning up the gain control.

But, if you don't have any of this cool stuff, then you'll have to assume the gain control is like a progressive-gain dial that becomes more sensitive as you turn it up (clockwise). We usually tell people that if they have a 4-Volt head unit, turn the gain all the way down (counter-clockwise); if they have a 2-Volt head unit, turn the gain 1/3 of the way up (clockwise); if they have a 1-Volt head unit, turn the gain 2/3 of the way up; and for 500mV decks, turn the gain 3/4 of the way up. While these suggestions are buy no means 100% accurate, they will work fine most of the time. When in doubt, have a professional double-check your work.

 

that sounds a little odd to me. I have an alpine and no way am i running my gains below normal.

 

It makes sense to me...but then again I'm a studio engineer.

Let me see if I can give you an example...the idea of audio is to get the highest signal out without clipping or distortion.

Think of a guitar or a microphone...if you plugged it in directly into a mixer without turning the gain up you would barely be able to hear it...now turn the gain up (not the volume)on the channel...The idea is to get the maximum signal output from a deck into an amp so you have the best signal.

The higher the voltage they use(within reason) to get the signal out of the RCAs to better the signal and the less you will have to amplify it.

Many headunit (this is a general statement...some head vary) put of a "line" signal from the RCA outputs..this is typically considered a -10db output...on the deck you are describing that would be considered a +3db output (in the music industry...this is know as pro or broadcast quality outputs)...computers(depending on soundcard), CD Walkmans, MP3 Players, keyboards, etc put out -10db ("line") signals

Hope this helps

 

yea well i am going to play with my gains and see what happens, i am going to a parking lot now.

 

just played with my gains, didn't see any significant difference though, just that the distortion got moved up the volume dial. I am sure my stereo will sound much better once i actually get real RCA's. I am running like the 7 dollar 14ft ones from home depot, and i know i am sacrificing sound quality. i am getting a thwap like crackly from my tweets at high power, and i think that is a direct result of my **** rcas

 

This is what I've read and heard from others to set up gain proper. First you begin by setting gain to zero, turning all EQ settings to flat. Then you turn your volume to about 3/4, then you adjust your gain accordingly and stop at the point in which is begins to clip, however it's reccommended that you use a 1khz sound wave clip for this.

 

yes, that is how you do it.....most headunit RCA outputs start to clip at 75% of the head's maximum volume. Depending on your amplifier and headunit combo, the gains may be best at the minimum level...

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obi...books

That is the end all books to sound design and concepts (primarily used for studio engineers), but concepts are still the same.

 

I didn't realize why my system sounded so bad and would start to clip out very early at less than 50% volume, until I actually learned what all the different stuff on my amp did. I didn't notice that my gain was set at 50% for both my fronts and rears. But now I have no deck so I can't test it out. Right now I"m just contemplating whether or not I should invest $100-150 to switch my standard 5 1/4 coax's to 6.5 components.

Dave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bubble Gum Jr. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Right now I"m just contemplating whether or not I should invest $100-150 to switch my standard 5 1/4 coax's to 6.5 components.

Dave</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you ever consider changing a component of your system when you don't even have your current equipment working properly!!!?!?!?!?!

First step is always to get the current setup working as well as you can. If you feel that you need to upgrade, then do it, but only after your current equipment is working to the best of it's ability!!

 

Mostly installation costs, I can save myself some money if I get it all installed at once, seeing as how I have none of the tools required to do an install or even the know how.

Plus I know I can get better sound with a component system that's why I want to switch and also I know my car can fit a larger speaker. So I want to make that switch. On top of that my current fronts (before my cd deck got stolen) were heavilly overpowered by almost twice the reccommend rms wattage. Mainly just looking for a better front setup that will match with my amps power.

Dave