Last year I autocrossed my EK Civic hatchy in STS for 1/2 the season, then did a USDM B18C1 swap (OEM everything) and moved to SM for the 2nd half.

The car was (IMO) set up damn well for STS with the SOHC CX engine on street tires. I could pivot it easily and wheelspin wasn't a big problem. My suspension included H&R street coilovers, upper front/rear tie bars, and a '99/'00 Si front and rear brake conversion (plus stainless lines, slotted rotors, and Porterfield R4S pads). That's it. No sway bars, no lower tie bars.

Now that I have the B18, though, everything just feels sort of sloppy and I definately have the popular inner-wheel spinning uncontrolably.

The quest for traction is on!

I have all of the following on it's way here so that I can get everything done in time for our Test and Tune day in March:

- Quaife LSD (plus new carrier and all new input/output shaft bearings)
- OEM '99/'00 Si alluminum front lower control arms
- OEM '99/'00 Si front sway bar/end links/bushings
- Comptech adjustable 22mm rear sway/lower tie bar combo
- Cusco engine mounts (all 5...my OEM mounts are completely shot and torn)
- ES rear trailing arm bushings
- 13x8" Diamond Racing wheels
- 235/45/13 Ecsta V700s

I'm going to have to downsize my front 10.2" rotors/calipers to the original CX 9.25" rotors/calipers for the 13" wheels to fit. Not too happy about that, but it shouldn't be a problem for auto-x.

So what do you think? Am I heading the right direction?

Input appreciated!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benny Z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- ES rear trailing arm bushings</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would kick that idea. I think you will find that most people agree that OEM rubber or Mugen trailing arm bushings are the way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would kick that idea. I think you will find that most people agree that OEM rubber or Mugen trailing arm bushings are the way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

really?

what's the reasoning?

not that i doubt you, just curious why...

 

I think the Poly Trailing Arm bushings cause a bind in the suspension or doesnt allow for full suspension travel..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by navin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the Poly Trailing Arm bushings cause a bind in the suspension or doesnt allow for full suspension travel..</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd...i'll hold of on putting those in...

thanks!

any other help?

 

My front LCA's are aluminum?

They look like stamped steel to me.



Sounds like a plan.

If I were you I would find a pair of used custom 13x8.5's that'd fit over the 10.2" brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiLooksStock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I were you I would find a pair of used custom 13x8.5's that'd fit over the 10.2" brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried and tried to find an inexpensive 13" wheel that would work over the 10.2s, but couldn't succeed. do you have a recommendation?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benny Z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

werd...i'll hold of on putting those in...

thanks!

any other help?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just get the Mugen or new OEM rubbers if you really need to change them...

 

Other than looking through autocross classifieds for SP cars, you're boned. And it'll likely still be more expensive than new Diamonds.

 

going to a smaller wheel is only going to make your wheelspin problems worse. speaking of which, you got wheelspin in a _CX_???? wtf?? were you on snow tires?

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">going to a smaller wheel is only going to make your wheelspin problems worse. speaking of which, you got wheelspin in a _CX_???? wtf?? were you on snow tires?

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said he had none with the cx motor, than he put in a b18c1 (integra gsr motor, 170hp/125tq), thats when he got the wheelspin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he said he had none with the cx motor, than he put in a b18c1 (integra gsr motor, 170hp/125tq), thats when he got the wheelspin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benny Z &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....could pivot it easily and wheelspin wasn't a big problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my b. it read different for me for some reason...

nate - :hp envy:

 

what camber and toe settings do you think i'd have best luck with?

this is my daily driver, but i plan to take autocrossing pretty seriously this year. i don't mind tire wear, because my dd tires are crap anyway, and my daily commute is a whopping 3 miles (if that).

also...i'm planning to set the comptech bar to its lowest setting to start with. our test and tune is on march 20th and 21st, so i might tighten it up if it's not going to be below freezing outside. what setting do you think will work best with the oem front si bar? i'm wanting to induce some oversteer, but want it to remain fairly balanced.

 

1/16" toe out in front, 0 toe rear, and set the bar on the stiffest setting.

-2.5 in front and at least -1.5 in the rear. This is of course just ballpark but for a car that gets driven on the street it's reasonable without being darty.