Well after spending 15 hours installing all the new stuff, the car felt great, for about 550 miles. The clutch was stiff, but do-able, flywheel and final drive felt great.

Problems arose when coming back from dinner one night and the clutch disengagment point began to feel closer to the floor. The car kept getting harder into gear until right outside of my neighborhood I had to shove it into first gear and just crawl to my house in first. With the clutch depressed or released without the engine running the car will go into any gear as easily as ever. With the engine running, you can get it into gear with more effort than usual for a few seconds, but then you really have to shove it into gear. Also when the clutch is depressed and you try to select a gear, second in my case, you can hear the engine load, and try to pull the car foward a bit, even with the clutch pedal depressed while pushing toward second gear. Also I checked behind the clutch pedal on the master cylinder, and their was a fasir amount of clutch fluid in the rubber boot covering the end of the master cylinder, and dripping off of it a bit. Do the master cylinders common fail, or have you ever heard of one failing at all? Replacing that I would assume would be a hell of a lot easier than having to drop the tranny again.

I did a few searches after bleeding the clutch to no avail and it seems that the general concensus is a fialed pressure plate. This of course would anger me having just dropped a bunch of money on the new clutch. Let me know what you guys think. Not being able to drive her he driving me crazy.
Thanks, Ryan

 

Damn that sucks. I'll trade ya

My mustang is doing the EXACT same thing. My dad said it could be a piece of the pressure plate has broken off and wedged itself up inbetween everything. I still havent had time to get it fixed, so I dont know if thats it in my case or not.

 

Ryan I am running the XT-SS and Fidanza flywheel and I have had no problems since the day I installed.

The only thing I am running into now is that my Clutch/Master Cylinder is going bad, just like u said wet around the boot under the dash and the engagement point differs for me at certain times in my car. I have since purchased a new master and slave cylinder and going to replace them the end of this month I hope.

The one other problem I have had is the "Chattering" Noise when letting the clutch pedal out when stopped. In a few recent cases it has seemed to be the Disc that becomes loose after the input shaft wears the splines away with such a Heavy PP like the Extreme. I am going to replace my disc and hope that solves the problem.

Your problem sounds like a Install error in my opinion. I think you should drop the tranny and take a look at things.

 

contact ACT, i know a guy that was the 2nd owner of a ACT clutch that bought it off EBAY and that happened to him too. he contacted ACT and they gave him a new clutch at no charge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smitdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the engagement point differs for me at certain times in my car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same thing after I got my act clutch. Makes me stall it sometimes because it grabs at the floor and I'm not expecting it. Doesnt do it often though.
So that usually means the Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Same thing after I got my act clutch. Makes me stall it sometimes because it grabs at the floor and I'm not expecting it. Doesnt do it often though.
So that usually means the Clutch Master Cylinder is going bad?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

In my case and most with the same problems, it is most likely the master Cylinder. New Master/Slave are not expensive and very easy to replace!

 

Replacing the master cylinder tomorrow. Hopefully it will fix the problem, but my gut tells me it won't

 

Problem fixed God it feels good. Replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder and the problem is gone. Adjusted the take up on the clutch by adjusting the master cylinder travel from under the dash and the clutch feels great. Washed her up and I'm out for a drive. Thanks for all the info guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replacing but my gut tells me it won't </TD></TR></TABLE>

get a new mechanic...

 

Being that I'm my own mechanic along wiht some help from my dad, I think I'll keep myself around. Car feels grwat now. I adjusted the clutch take up a bit more and she's really feeling good. Jon- shoot me an IM sometime and I'll take ya for a spin-I drive by your place sometimes but your *** is never home. Do you have a job or something? Also my friend Vince, who autox'ed his red GTI VR6 a few times, juts picked up a blue VW R32 and man is it pretty

 

****! Just got back from a drive and it was great for the first 20 or so miles after replacing the master cylinder and slave and adjusting the takeup to my liking. After driving the car about 30 miles I went to a freinds to check out his R32 and when starting the R it made a weird metallic thunking sound from the front of the car during start up. Pulling out of his neighborhood it began to get hard to get into gear. I felt it getting worse and decided to turn around. Once I stopped the car wouldnt not at all go into gear. I hapened to have a 12mm wrench with me so I adjusted the nut on the master cylinder on the clutch pedal and this got me home. It shifter fine into gears but even with the play maxed all the way out on the master cyliner it still has a very low take up point off the floor. Very low meaning I relax the muscle in my fot and it begins to engage, less than .25 off the floor. Also when letting the clutch out in neutral their seems to be a sound coming from where the clutch/pressre plate it. All of this leads me to believe it's the pressure plate. Of course I'm pissed. I guess we'll drop the tranny and have a look at the pressure plate with less than 600 miles on it this weekend. ****. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions. Thanks, a disappointed Ryan.

 

Come on fellas.

 

Could be the springs in the clutch disc as well but sounds like the tranny is coming off regardless.

 

PP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PP</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm new to hydraulic clutches, so I dont know, but I heard someone say that theres a valve in the hydraulic throwout bearing? I guess that could have gone bad...

 

When you changed the clutch master and slave cylinder, did you use OEM or reman's?

Have you looked at the master/slave clutch cylinder again to make sure they aren't leaking and the fluid level is staying the same? Also did you bleed the all the air from the hydraulic lines?

Just suggesting the easy stuff before you go pulling the tranny. I wouldn't be surprised if your ACT has problems. The quality seems to be hit and miss for ppl.

 

I believe the master cylinder is a Tokiko (sp) and the slave is a Advanced hydraulics, but I can double check in a bit. I just got the cheap ones to see if it fixed the problem. The fluid seems to be staying the same and the lines have been bled many times. I think I'll try bleeding them again and checking the seal on the master cylinder for leakage. If this doesn't work the tranny will be coming off and ACT contacted.

 

--Update--
OK so I went out and piddled with the adjustments on the clutch pedal for a few minutes after work today. The only way I could get the clutch to totally, or seemingly totally disengage was to completely back out the bolt on the master cyliner from where it attaches to the clutch pedal. After doing this the car would select the gears fine. I did however notice a very distinct metallic whining sound, coming from the clutch area, when I released the clutch. It would go away when you pushed the clutch in a little. I adjusted bolt and lock nut that adjusts the free play to push on the pedal when engaged to elievate the whining type sound, though I don't think thats what the adjustments for. So I sit here still thinking about the problem and this came to mind. Is it possibel that the non-OEM has slightly less range of motion than the OEM piece which is causing me to not be able to disengage and engage the clutch properly? Should I replace the new, but non OEM master and slave with OEM parts to see what happens? Otherwise the tranny will be coming off. Thanks guys. I just want her to get back at 100%.

 

PP springs are most likely messed up. did you tighten the pp down evenly, or did you tighten each bolt down all the way before moving to the next? If you did it the second way, thats probly why. You should'nt have to adjust the clutch so much, just make sure its adjusted right

 

I tightened the bolts down per the fashion outlined in the Helms.