ok guys with b16 swaps in there civic/crx si....

i dont know if its normal for swapped out b16 in a civic/crx to have this problems..but i hate having to play with my gas pedal to warm up my car faster jess to have an idle...ok when i first start my car in the moring, starts up fine then after jess say ummm 5 sec then it starts to bogg out then it dies out.. so i start it up again but then i gotta hold my gas pedal at like 2K till it holds an idle, then after that my idle is fine...what i got in my swap is as follows...

first gen b16a
port and polish head
stock block
p30 off an 99 si intake manifold
i was told that it was an type R throttle body..
str fuel rail
b&m FPR
n1 type R underdrive pulley
cold air intake
4-1 dc headers
pr3 ecu
oil i use is castrol 10-40


what seems to be the problem..or is that jess a normal thing for b16 with port and polish head..or jess a normal thing for a b16a...HELP

 

could be a couple things. first just check your plugs and if they need to be replaced, just replace them. check your injectors, get them cleand. is your fpr turned up? if you have too much fuel at start up, that also makes it hard for the motor to start. just try those things and see what happens.

 

do you have all of the coolant lines hooked up to the FIV/FITV on the bottom of the throttle body? that's supposed to raise the idle when the motor is cold for you.

 

Do you live in a cold climate, because here in Oregon sometimes it gets too cold and when I had 20W-50 oil in my engine, it was too thick when it started up thats what I would have to do. Also what kind of oil do you use.

 

i have the same problem with my b16 crx let me know if you fix it this hella bugs me

 

I have no such problems with my B16 Civic all the way up here in Canada.. It starts fine in the coldest of weather, EH!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no such problems with my B16 Civic all the way up here in Canada.. It starts fine in the coldest of weather, EH!</TD></TR></TABLE>

HE is not talking about starting. Its after it starts while warming up.

I have the same problem as 90hbvtec. I have a few more things done but my problem is when I come to a stop and the car is not up to operating temp it will die. Tomorrow I am going to do some FPR tuning right now its around 38 with vaccum attached and -5% fuel on the VAFC. I'm running mugen chip, B16, CTR slugs, CM lb. flywheel and ton of other ****. Afer it warms up I have no stalling problems. I'll post results tomorrow.

 

that mugen chip isnt helpin it either

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxguy05sir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that mugen chip isnt helpin it either
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bullshit

 

I got my issue ironed out earlier today. Before any changes were made I was running 40 psi fuel pressure and VAFC was set to -6% fuel @ idle. So I walk out to the car. Before starting it I lowered the fuel pressure to 35 psi and dropped the vafc to -18% fuel @ idle. My idle screw was backed out pretty far. Got in fired it up cold idle shot up to 1550 rpm. Let it idle for a minuite. Took off and usually when I come to stop signs around the hood during warm up it dies. Not this time. It droped to 700 when coming to a stop. Never died once. When I got back home I need to adjust the idle screw in some to get the idle around 800 rpm. I have lightweight flywheel so the idle has to be bumped a bit. It also reduces chassis vibration.

90hbvtec: Whats your fuel pressure @ idle? Could be your IACV (idle air control valve) on the back of the IM. They can be removed and cleaned.

 

Where exactly is the idle screw on a b16?

 

Looking at the engine from the passenger side, above where your intake tubing meets the intake manifold. If i recall correctly, that is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c jackson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is your fpr turned up? if you have too much fuel at start up, that also makes it hard for the motor to start. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhatOptimo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got my issue ironed out earlier today. Before any changes were made I was running 40 psi fuel pressure and VAFC was set to -6% fuel @ idle. So I walk out to the car. Before starting it I lowered the fuel pressure to 35 psi and dropped the vafc to -18% fuel @ idle. My idle screw was backed out pretty far. Got in fired it up cold idle shot up to 1550 rpm. Let it idle for a minuite. Took off and usually when I come to stop signs around the hood during warm up it dies. Not this time. It droped to 700 when coming to a stop. Never died once. When I got back home I need to adjust the idle screw in some to get the idle around 800 rpm. I have lightweight flywheel so the idle has to be bumped a bit. It also reduces chassis vibration.

90hbvtec: Whats your fuel pressure @ idle? Could be your IACV (idle air control valve) on the back of the IM. They can be removed and cleaned.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

my fuel pressure at idle is at 38 psi, i clean 2 IACV..got a 95 jdm iacv and my stock pr3..

i had that problem too bout how it dies when u come to a stop and that is what i did adjusted the idle screw..and it works fine..

all i hate is jess my moring start starts fine then it jess dies on me..so i gotta play with the pedal till it gets warm..

do u think it can be my ecu messing up..

i also have a 12lbs act flywheel..

 

i dont think that is it..cause it starts up fine jess one click and it starts but after like 5 seconds then it dies...

 

how can u tell if ur iacv is bad....

what i tried doin is that when its at idle i unplugged it !! and then it dies..so i guess..my iacv is working?....what u guys think...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90hbvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can u tell if ur iacv is bad....

what i tried doin is that when its at idle i unplugged it !! and then it dies..so i guess..my iacv is working?....what u guys think...</TD></TR></TABLE>


haha ur **** is gone put a new one on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


haha ur **** is gone put a new one on </TD></TR></TABLE>


are u serious..dammit i jess bought that IACV too..dammit do u think an ecu can f*ck up the iacv....DAMMIT...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90hbvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


are u serious..dammit i jess bought that IACV too..dammit do u think an ecu can f*ck up the iacv....DAMMIT...</TD></TR></TABLE>

it cant be ur ecu maybe u bought a fautly or fucked up IACV when u unplug that green plug the idel should go higher and when u plug it back in it should go down if urs dies get a new one.

 

i don't know where you got your swap from..
but my buddy got his swap from HMO and his ecu was already chipped. had some japanese writing on the chip. it didnt' like to idle when really cold

check the ecu.