Can a rollbar be installed that is easy to remove? What would the procedure be to install/remove? Is it any less safe than a welded one?

Thinking about installing one in the only car that I have, but probably could not do it if it has to stay in all the time. Also, what would the cost be?


[Modified by rltrock, 5:02 PM 10/7/2001]

 

Even with a bolt-in bar, there is NO WAY you would want to ever remove it, reinstall it, remove it, etc. It's a LOT of work, a big pain in the ***, and it takes at least two people.

However, you could always do what I did and get a bar where the cross brace and the harness bar are removable. You can see pics here:
http://www.itrca.com/faq/mod_autopower_rollbar.asp

 

B. In the case of cars with unitized or frameless construction, mounting plates must be used to secure the roll bar structure to the floor of the car. The important consideration is that the load be distributed over as large an area as possible. A back-up plate of equal size and thickness must be used on the opposite side of the panel with the plates through-bolted together.
from the silverstateclassic open road race..this is the only info i could find supporting a bolted in cage for a unibody car..all the rest would rather you weld it in..this makes alot of sense to me though



[Modified by EPGONZALEZ, 3:01 AM 10/8/2001]

 

For the amount of track days that you will be doing, I think a bolt-in will be sufficient. If you were doing racing then a full welded cage is definitely required. Just make sure you follow all recommended practices (base plates, bolt types, mounting points, etc. etc.) I am very happy that you decided to protect yourself !!!

I actually sat in the back seat of a HB Civic with the Autopower roll cage. I had to snake myself in but I was able to sit. But, the car was parked and I wouldn't sit in the back seat with a roll cage. Any sudden stop, BAM, the rear seat passenger hits the cage.

The removable cross member and harness bar option is the best idea (see URL above that links to ITRCA)


[Modified by davidnyc, 7:19 PM 10/7/2001]

 

How much did this run you????

 

$260 (rollbar) + $50 (cross brace) + $50 (harness bar) + $100 (OEM CW paint) + $40 (shipping). Free install (most people can do it themselves). However, you can paint it black yourself for $10, and if you don't want anything to be removable, the whole bar is only $260.

 

This is all very helpful -- I will have to look into the Autopower rollbar.

Four questions:

1. are they as safe as more "standard" rollbars?
2. is it easy to remove the cross and harness bars?
3. how will installation of this effect the handling of the car?
4. Is it safe to ride in the backseat once the cross and harness bars are removed?

I assume that this rollbar will keep me in stock class for SCCA autocross purposes.

thanks again,
Ron

 

As long as it's bolt-in, NOT WELD IN, you will be OK in SCCA Stock class. Just don't get funky with extra bracing or anything (might happen with custom cage). Stick with the regular bolt-in Autopower, and you will be fine.

 

From an ITR point of view:

1) I'm not sure that I understand the question, but I will say this. Autopower uses tube diameter vs. thickness guides that have rollover protection in mind, not anything else. They won't allow you to order a bar that is too skinny or too thin, even if you don't care how safe it is.

2) With the ERW or DOM, the longer you leave the two braces in before you first remove them, the more they will "learn" their proper place/shape in the car. The whole bar will fit better as you drive your car around. For me, I can remove the bars in 5 min and it's a 1 person job. However, some people are NOT as lucky, and you might need a BFH or even a drill. Each bar is held in by two bolts, pretty simple.

3) Much stiffer, but I agree with the statement that new rattles also spring up. It's worth it though, since I don't have very many other GS options for making the car stiffer.

4) In the Integra, it's not safe at all. Each rear support bar would be right on the arm/ribs of the rear passenger, and with my 6'1" frame, my head doesn't clear the top crossbar when I strech forward. I don't trust the OEM 3pt belt in the back to hold me that well, and I would never ride back there, even with the harness and cross brace removed.

Finally, I believe that you can weld a bar/cage in stock class. You must follow the guidelines in the rule book, which I don't feel like typing

 

Just some cage pics of my kirk bolt in and a oops to Jason's ITA CRX.. doh!

 

just a thought, but shouldn't that cage be bolted down?

haha, j/k man...how much does one like that go for?

 

Hell no! I find that without the bolts, it's MUCH easier to move the cage around which makes entering and exiting the vehicle MUCH easier! With it all bolted in it wont move!!!!

595.00 + shipping from kirk racing.

 

Someone needs to pull the rule book on this one (and mine's at home). I would swear that weld-in is not allowed in Stock class.

 

{quote]I find that without the bolts, it's MUCH easier to move the cage around which makes entering and exiting the vehicle MUCH easier! With it all bolted in it wont move!!!! [/quote]

damn, good point, i'll keep that in mind....

then your harnesses wont be so tight either...

 

Man, what part of "I don't feel like typing" did you not understand? LOL, J/K

Anyway, the reader's digest version, From the 2001 rulebook:

Section 13.2: G: ...Roll bars may be welded. Roll cages must be bolted, not welded, into the automobile and within the driver/passenger compartment.

I remembered half right, weld in roll bars are legal in stock class, not weld in cages. However, I still remember something about the cage rules changing, but they haven't changed as of the 2001 rule book.


[Modified by ITR#231, 3:11 PM 10/9/2001]