i just got a set of arp extended studs for my 99 civic si. I am attempting to install them...it looks like i have to pull the hub out. Do i have to or is there another way of installing them?

 

Has to come out buddy..

 

this means i would also have to replace the wheel bearing while im at it?

 

yessum, you do.

 

cool tanks for ur help

 

You do not have to remove the hub or have anything pressed out! I repeat, no removal of any bearings or any of that nonsense. I did both of my hubs in less than 10 minutes with this method. I didn't take any pictures unfortunately but this sketch should help you out. Trim a little section of the dust shield to expose the back of the studs and hub. then I just used a metal porting bit to grind about 1/2" off of the cast spindle itself. It's a half cicle basically with a diameter equal to the stud's heads. then just a tap on each one with the stud lined up with the knotch you just grinded and you're good to go. once you get the hub off you'll visualize it better. it's not hard and can definately be done without removing the bearing or anything.

 

so reno is telling you to grind the old ones off and put in the new ones..

 

you dont grind the studs themselves at all. you grind a small "knotch" and tap the old studs out and then install the new studs w/ a tap from the back and an optional tack weld to hold them.

 

i say it's a good way to do it. it's not professional but it works though for those who can not get access to a shop press or to someone who can press the hub out.

 

Pull the hub and take it to some place and have the new studs pressed in.

 

On a 96-00 it is a little differant if i recal i just took the spindles off and had the hub pressed out and then installed the new studs then the new wheel bearings then pressed back together.

 

 

thew extended wheel studs had to be welded ...or is that only if you dont take the hub off ?

 

They don't have to be welded but for extra security you can but not neccesary. Just a little tac will be fine on each

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They don't have to be welded but for extra security you can but not neccesary. Just a little tac will be fine on each</TD></TR></TABLE>i see

 

I'm getting my studs replace here shortly.

 

the wheel bearing do NOT have to be replaced. They come apart like any other "old school" bearing. Just repack with a little high temp wheel bearing grease and press back together after installing the new studs.

I put the longer TL style studs into my GSR brake setup using only a 3 lb mini-sledge, a work-mate, a 36mm socket.

If the bearings have more than 60k-75k miles, replace them while hubs are apart.

 

alot of the time the wheel bearings do get messed up during pressing in/out, im dealing with this arp wheelstud thing right now, and the method that renoracing is suggesting dosent work on anything other then cx/dx/vx/lx that Ive seen but goodluck!

 

i tried to reuse my old bearings after i pressed them out, and there was an unacceptable amount of play when i put them back together. Could be that my bearings were just old.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried to reuse my old bearings after i pressed them out, and there was an unacceptable amount of play when i put them back together. Could be that my bearings were just old.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same exact thing here. I actually did this today. When I took the hubs out the bearings seemed fine. But upon putting them back together they had too much play for my liking.

-Ryan

 

OH shiet, I'm about to put my hub to the car and I re-used the bearing that I just pull out. But the bearing I just pulled out were brand new but I put it the wrong way. The helm's says the bearing with the metal side goes in first and I put the black rubber side instead. So I push it back out and did it the right way. The other side has a new bearing as well. Oh well, will see. I hoping no play.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OH shiet, I'm about to put my hub to the car and I re-used the bearing that I just pull out. But the bearing I just pulled out were brand new but I put it the wrong way. The helm's says the bearing with the metal side goes in first and I put the black rubber side instead. So I push it back out and did it the right way. The other side has a new bearing as well. Oh well, will see. I hoping no play. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was told as long as you support the race when pressing, the bearings should be fine.

-Ryan

 

You guys that put them back together and they seemed loose, did you put an axle back in the hub and tighten it? When you torque down the axle nut, it's pulls the hub together. It's usually not necessary to replace the bearings if you do it right...

 

I did my stud install in my garage w/ a baby sledge, a vise, and a set of bueshing/bearing press tools. I got my hub out very easily by smaking it with the hammer and bushing tool everything still works great car drives normal everything.