B20 Buildup
OK guys, I'm a newbie to the all-motor world, I have done turbos numerous times but I think its time to go all motor with a car. Im buying a 1998 Civic EX. I have been researching things and think that the smartest way to go about this would be with a B20 and a B16 head on it(if I even go VTEC). And as far as transmission goes I was thinking ITR or GSR, input on this would be great too. I am going for the sleeper effect. I was wanting to get some opinions on this setup. Also what it would cost me and maybe a list of parts that I you guys would recommend to get me to about 250ish HP. My goal right now is to run a Z06. All help is greatly appreciated. If you would rather talk to me online abuot this then IM me at IS300Racer84.
250 is a lot of hp to make and it will cost a lot of money.
definitely resleeve the block maybe to an even bigger bore like 86mm
don't forget after all the upgrades
that Tuning will get you to where you wanna go
definitely resleeve the block maybe to an even bigger bore like 86mm
don't forget after all the upgrades
that Tuning will get you to where you wanna go
Try http://www.importbuilders.com responsible for 260 hp daily drivers....
Ok, then maybe I am shooting for the wrong thing, I want to beat a Z06 which means I need to run low 12s or high 11s. I would love an guess on price, and then what transmission I should run, I really appreciate that Import Builders site, I think that is probably where I will get my motor. I also plan on running Hondata, and Jotech in Forth Worth will be the one tuning it. Thanks again for all the help.
Start off on a cheap note and save some money and go with a B18 block over a B20... Have the B18 sleeved and "Deckplated" ....
Longer custom stroke rods with custom pistons (13:1+comp)
ALL Arp hardware
Vtec oilpump & water pump
Endyn block girdle
balanced complete rotating assembly
top it off with a nice head, get like a cheap B16a head for 350-400 bucks and have it ported and polished with a nice valvejob. Use EF-1 valvetrain with some EF-1 M24e i think cams, There the big vtec cams, they've been proved better then the Jun stg3's ..
Once the head is completed get yourself some TWM ITB's, like 50mm ITB's would do great. As for the header. Get a nice built side exit header.
As for tuning, I myself i am pretty biased on three tuning systems..
F.A.S.T.
Haltech
Hondata
Get yourself a EMS that has a good quality name going for itself and hope someone local to you can tune very good.
Going fast N/A cost alot of money, ALOT. So just remember that. Have fun
Ok, let me know if I am wrong but everywhere I look I can get a B20 for like $850 and then Im going to have to sleeve it, but a B18 is going to cost me $2500+ and then to resleeve it? Sounds like it would be cheaper to get the B20 since I have to sleeve it anyways and that would give me the torque that is needed.
$2500 for a B18b Shortblock ??? Someone is trying to *** rape you....
I have two friends with complete LS longblocks selling them for around $400 each ..
On average, a LS longblock going rate is $300-500 dollars pending on condition.
Vince at GE charges like 800-1000 dollars to sleeve, not sure about deckplate applications.
A LS Block is much cheaper to start out on then a B20... Most places sell B20 longblocks for like 800+ dollars...
If you didnt live in TX i could hook u up with my friends selling there LS motors.
I have two friends with complete LS longblocks selling them for around $400 each ..
On average, a LS longblock going rate is $300-500 dollars pending on condition.
Vince at GE charges like 800-1000 dollars to sleeve, not sure about deckplate applications.
A LS Block is much cheaper to start out on then a B20... Most places sell B20 longblocks for like 800+ dollars...
If you didnt live in TX i could hook u up with my friends selling there LS motors.
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Pardon my ignorance, but how reliable is the 2.0LS as opposed to the sleeved B20? Also I was reading somewhere that people are putting more power down with a stock B18C head on the B20 over the B16A head. If I am not mistaken the B16 head is the better setup correct?
Here is what I am thinking for the setup right now...
B20
CP Pistons
B16 Head Ported and Polished
3 Angle Valve Job
GSR Transmission(LSD)???
GSR Crankshaft
Skunk2 Stage 2 Cams
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Comptech Icebox Intake
STR Block Guard
STR 70mm Throttle Body
Eagle Rods
DC JDM 4 to 1 stainless header
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
MSD 6a Ignition
Skunk2 Valvesprings
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Cam Gears
310cc or 92-96 H22 Injectors
Koyo Radiator
ARP Rod Bolts
94+ Integra Motor Mounts
GSR Axels
GSR Water Pump
GSR Timing Belt
ARP Head Studs
Skunk2 Pulleys
Modified by is300racer at 8:54 PM 2/5/2004
Modified by is300racer at 3:47 AM 2/6/2004
Here is what I am thinking for the setup right now...
B20
CP Pistons
B16 Head Ported and Polished
3 Angle Valve Job
GSR Transmission(LSD)???
GSR Crankshaft
Skunk2 Stage 2 Cams
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Comptech Icebox Intake
STR Block Guard
STR 70mm Throttle Body
Eagle Rods
DC JDM 4 to 1 stainless header
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
MSD 6a Ignition
Skunk2 Valvesprings
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Cam Gears
310cc or 92-96 H22 Injectors
Koyo Radiator
ARP Rod Bolts
94+ Integra Motor Mounts
GSR Axels
GSR Water Pump
GSR Timing Belt
ARP Head Studs
Skunk2 Pulleys
Modified by is300racer at 8:54 PM 2/5/2004
Modified by is300racer at 3:47 AM 2/6/2004
Your plans are nice, but this will not beat a Z06 in a 98' coupe. I would recommend a lighter car such as a eg or crx, if you keep the coupe you are going to have to strip the hell out of it. Also, you said you wanted skunk2 stage 2 cams, then you said jun type 3 camshaft? What did you mean by that?
in response to your big parts list... it doesn't matter which block you start with (b20z/b) because you'll be replacing the pistons anyway... just go for whatever you can get a good deal on, b18b/a, b20b/a... the bore doesn't really matter since you're gonna want to sleeve and overbore anyway.
:edit: definitely go with sleeves over the blockguard
:edit: definitely go with sleeves over the blockguard
Ok, i made the mistake, I planned on running the Skunk Stage 2 Cams. I had listed alot of stuff and then sorted through it, but I guess I missed that one. From what I have researched I should put 230+WHP with 12second or better times. Am I crazy or does this seem right? If not what would I have to do different to run 12s? I would like to keep full interior and maybe even a system in the trunk if at all possible. Also would I just be better off buying a DART or IMPORTBUILDERS block to save me the chance of doing something wrong, and knowing that their block is a little more reliable?
you want faster times?
get lighter wheels, better tires, and lose some weight in the car, tighten your rear supension.
power to weight ratios is what wins races, why do think bikes with 90 HP shoot down the street so fast?
power isnt everything.
get lighter wheels, better tires, and lose some weight in the car, tighten your rear supension.
power to weight ratios is what wins races, why do think bikes with 90 HP shoot down the street so fast?
power isnt everything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 7thGear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you want faster times?
get lighter wheels, better tires, and lose some weight in the car, tighten your rear supension.
power to weight ratios is what wins races, why do think bikes with 90 HP shoot down the street so fast?
power isnt everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly
get lighter wheels, better tires, and lose some weight in the car, tighten your rear supension.
power to weight ratios is what wins races, why do think bikes with 90 HP shoot down the street so fast?
power isnt everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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