Fo-Do Fanatic

Alright guys, I'm sure this has been covered before, but I just want to get alot of opinions because this is my first high hp build. I was thinking about getting a B20 and sleeving it (stock bore) and running a boosted B20/VTEC setup, but I've been hearing I'm better off with getting a 2.2 stroaker kit & sleeving my C5 and just up the boost?

Alot of guys are telling me I'd be better off with the stroaked/sleeved C5 because it has oil squirters, and the vtec block's are actually a stronger casting then non-vtec? Doesn't really make sence to me, because I think that if you stroaked a 1.8 out to a 2.2 the sleeves themself's would be thin, and couldn't handle high level's of boost? And a differant casting process sounds a wee bit expensive for a higher flowing head? Granted the extra 2000 rpm's but damn..?

What I want to shoot for is low 11's realistically, I'm not going to be over-zealous and say I want 9's. (I DO I DO!) So what kinda hp level's am I going to have to shoot for to get the et in a fulll-wieght ITR. I want to hit 11's with full interior, i don't wanna take anything out of the car, that's part of my goal.

Any help with this build would be great, as this is my first time. So thanks in advance to any help anyone give's up.

sal

If your only shooting for low 11's you can do that with just pistons and rods with your stock sleeves and a descent size turbo. Are you looking to run pump or race gas? If you have the money I would definitly get either of the blocks sleeved to ensure longevity of the motor. Each block should work equally as good as long as they are sleeved properly by a reputable company.

Also If you are leaning towards the stroker motor I'm almost positive you will have to remove the oil squirters in the c5 block to fit the crank. I personally havent seen that big of gains when using that big of a crank in a turbo motor in hp. You will gain some nice torque with the big crank, but probably loose som of the high revs you can achieve with the stock crank. I wouldnt go as big as 2.2L if you definitly want to go with a stroker crank. You will need a 95mm crank and around 85.5mm bore. The bore is a little bigger than I would feel comfertable for a turbo motor also.

Basically you can go low 11's with 400+whp depending on your driving skills, tires, trans, and suspention. And you definitly dont need a 2.2L motor for that power level

Fo-Do Fanatic

Thats kinda what i figured. I was just leaning toward sleeve's (darton) and some good piston's (CP) and rod's (carrillo most likely). I've got a new manifold from peak boost it's thier ram horn one, I didn't get as sprung on the top-mounts like everyone else has. I'll be running a 3'' DP (open), with a T3/T04R or a T4/T04R, not totally sure on that yet. I just mandrel bent my own 3'' I/C piping and bead rolled the ends (pure sex).

I'm thinking about running Chrome Pro because I've been hearing alot of good stuff about thier capabilities, that and I want 2 step, and full throttle shifts so I'm guessing that's the way to go. Tell me what you think about these?

- T3/T04R or T4/T04R for roughly 500whp on a peak boost ramhorn
or a T3/GT40 or T4/GT40?

-Chrome Pro or Uberdata (which one has more options?)

-Air to Air I/C 24''x12''x3.5'' (Garrett) or a 10'' Liquid to Air w/ 3'' in & out (PWR)

I think the Liquid to Air would be tight, just for the sleeper look.. I'm not sure about the hp gain's though? But thank's for your help Sal, I need all of the info. you honda OG's can throw @ me.


Modified by b00sted-Hatch at 1:44 PM 3/27/2007

Fo-Do Fanatic

Heeeelp.. lol

sal

Are you trying to make 500whp on pump or race gas?

nasteboyii

I think u are overkilling alot of things
first off ram horn is fine, 3 inch down pipe is good
no need for 3 inch intercooler piping, 500 plus can be made on 2.5, and we are talking 400 shoudl be plenty to put ya in 11s, on slicks hell u can prob run 11s on radials
i went 1200s in 2400lbs eg w/t3t4 e60 (300hp) full everything, driving to track on 205 60 14 radails, (granted this is just an example) on a b16a with stock sleeves (pistons/rods and valve train) base map uberdata spininng all the way down track (this was on 7-8 psi ) wastegate spring 2.2 60ft (which is not great)

anyway sorry for rambling but what im tryin to say is small build, small boost, stock sleeves pistons/rods can make 400 and/or (most important) put ya in 11s, on slicks should be easy, on radials u might have to be a little better driver

hope this helps
stick to the small things that work
good decent turbo, good tires, good tune, good parts (aka tial wastegate/bov)
basically i hope this helps

dan

Aggressive Racing

Well beings you said full weight R,im assuming your around 2600 to 2700lbs.

If it was mine i'd sleeve the C5,go 83mm bore,pistons rods,springs retainers valves,precision intercooler with 2.75 piping,pt67 on ram horn with 3 in downpipe...
with the right tires and driver that is a 10 sec setup.

1FSTHATCH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aggressive Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well beings you said full weight R,im assuming your around 2600 to 2700lbs.

If it was mine i'd sleeve the C5,go 83mm bore,pistons rods,springs retainers valves,precision intercooler with 2.75 piping,pt67 on ram horn with 3 in downpipe...
with the right tires and driver that is a 10 sec setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My advice is dont waste the C5 block..With the power levels your trying to make i'd just use the b20 block..Sell off your C5 and put that into the money towards sleeving or the pistons and rods..Or keep it around to put the motor back to stock..Your not going to gain any real advantage using that block..As long as your not gonna get crazy with timing and create ungodly cylinder pressure the B20 will be fine..I've seen B20 motors make 600-700 hp all day long..Everything else your picking out looks good..As far as the stroker kit, i wouldnt even go that route either..Alot more money you'll spend where it can be made up with boost..Just my opinion, hope everything works out..