Im in the market for buying a new car and i saw a sweet Type R so im thinking about getting one. Im familiar with the B18C5 engine, but not experienced. The compression ratio is (correct me if im wrong) 11.1:1. I heard that Turbocharging or supercharging the engine messes up the compression and im better off, if i do get one, to leave it NA. Is this true??? Im also looking at getting a 1998 or so, what kinda of price range am I looking at??? Im guessing 14,000 - 18,000.

I didnt do search b/c i dont have the time right now, i can check it out later. If anyone can help me its appreciated, and also, if anyone in the Philly region is selling there R or knows anyone, can u let me know.

Thanks ITR GUYS

 

Stock b18c5 CR is 10.6:1

 

The compression ratio for a US ITR is 10.6:1 and for turboing you could simply get a thicker head gasket to bring the compression ratio down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The compression ratio is (correct me if im wrong) 11.1:1. I heard that Turbocharging or supercharging the engine messes up the compression and im better off, if i do get one, to leave it NA. Is this true???

I didnt do search b/c i dont have the time right now, i can check it out later.

Thanks ITR GUYS</TD></TR></TABLE>

The USDM compression ratio is 10.6:1... and there are plenty of low boost pressure R's on H-T running stock CR... and turbo vs. all-motor... I'll leave that for others to fight about... that's almost as touchy as an oil debate ...

Finally, yes, please use search, there are tons of threads about this exact subject, and don't forget about the FI and AM forums too.

 

I believe you got the 11:1 compression from specs on the JDM ITR motor. As for forced induction with that high of compression, I would definately recommend investing in a good ECU (i.e. Hondata) and some upgraded injectors/fuel pump. With all that, you should be safe as long as nothing malfunctions. That's the problem with running higher compression and boost, you don't have as much room for error. Not saying that it's a bad thing because I'm about to boost my R motor, but just be careful.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourDoorTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the problem with running higher compression and boost, you don't have as much room for error.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or as much room for boost.
Though I think low boost on a stock ITR motor would be a nice "boost".

 

Buy it.

 

Actually, higher compression usually means better combustion so tons of horsepower would be easier to get out of a stock R engine than out of most others. The only things you should really worry about are engine management, and tuning. Don't be shy about spending some money on a good Hondata setup, a bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, proper spark plugs, etc. Higher compression under boost really means more potential horsepower, but again, be sure the tuning is perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The compression ratio for a US ITR is 10.6:1 and for turboing you could simply get a thicker head gasket to bring the compression ratio down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard this is kind of an "easy way out" and bad idea as the gasket then becomes a weaker point in the motor and you are far better off doing it the right way and getting lower compression, oversized pistons....just what I heard when I was planning to go F/I. It probably depends on what kinda boost you plan to run though, I was shooting for over 20psi so its probably fine on a lower boost setting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard this is kind of an "easy way out" and bad idea as the gasket then becomes a weaker point in the motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, the thicker the headgasket, the more likely it is to blow.

 

The stock USDM B18C5 Compression ratio is 10.6:1.

I personally would choose an FI application over an NA setup. Mainly because I've exhausted all I could on an NA setup and it still isn't fast/powerful enough. (I should probably get a Twin Turbo Viper. )

To me 10.6 is fine for an everyday car boosting on low boost. But keep in mind that although it's not impossible to run at that high, it's a tad bit more prone to knocking and not as easily tunable. Make sure you have the proper fuel management system. (FMU is not fuel management.) I understand there are alot of variables that goes into pre-ignition and detonation, such as piston design and cylinder head shape, but in general having compressed air in an already high compression engine is going to yield a higher combustion chamber temperature.

The thicker headgasket, to me, is a band aide fix. Of course it will work, but you can not guarantee how long it will last. The proper way to lower compression is to change out the piston. If you do decide to stay within a reasonable power goal, somewhere in the neighborhood of 300-400whp, the stock sleeves should be just fine. (Note: Stock sleeves have been known to knock on the doors of 500whp. ) If you do change out the pistons, be sure to have the block aligned honed and bored to accomodate your piston. Stock sleeves may be bored out to 82mm and that's really pushing it.

Remember, no matter how much you reinforce your bottom end with top notch parts, they're not indestructable and will fail with poor tuning.

Good Luck and Happy Boosting,

Len, who can't wait to go to two bars.

 

nice post len

 

blow it up !!!@#@!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im in the market for buying a new car and i saw a sweet Type R so im thinking about getting one. Im familiar with the B18C5 engine, but not experienced. The compression ratio is (correct me if im wrong) 11.1:1. I heard that Turbocharging or supercharging the engine messes up the compression and im better off, if i do get one, to leave it NA. Is this true??? Im also looking at getting a 1998 or so, what kinda of price range am I looking at??? Im guessing 14,000 - 18,000.

I didnt do search b/c i dont have the time right now, i can check it out later. If anyone can help me its appreciated, and also, if anyone in the Philly region is selling there R or knows anyone, can u let me know.

Thanks ITR GUYS</TD></TR></TABLE>

having a turbocharged itr is a whole lot of fun, but repairs can be expensive..

i wouldn't boost a used itr (headgasket may give or rings and then you'll need a rebuild), especially if you're going to spend 14-18K.. buy an integra thats been boosted and has all turbo parts.. when you have to do repairs, you won't spend as much. maybe buy a shell and built motor from there, maybe match gsr block with itr head and tranmission and you'll have lower compression and still be able to rev.

i'm not saything this so you shouldn't boost used itr.. just make sure you can cover all expenses. if you must boost an itr, keep it at low whp with good fuel managment.. i say around low 200's and it might last for some good time.. make sure to do compression test, leakdown if possible to make sure that car will hold up to the challenge.

if you want the car to be most reliable, keep it stock. its easy to maintain and to repair even major repair can be cheaper than other manufacturers.

your car can be reliable and boosted, but its not easy to accomplish unless you spend some cash.

btw. you got del sol? make it rwd and mid engine:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The compression ratio for a US ITR is 10.6:1 and for turboing you could simply get a thicker head gasket to bring the compression ratio down.</TD></TR></TABLE>What exactaly would it bring it down to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYREV2NR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactaly would it bring it down to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends of the thickness of the headgasket used.

A company called "cometic" makes some for this purpose in at least two thicknesses.

 

i ran mine stock for a while, i loved it , but got greedy and wanted more boost. on 8psi bone stock motor, 1st tuning session we made 303whp with a very conservative tune. my exhaust was prob holding me bakc a little too . for a while i was running 11psi on stock internals . its wa sa blast.

 

Holy ****, Thanks guys. You responded much better then the civic/delsol forum. Since this would be my first time boosting a car, i think ill hold off untill i know a little more about the engine.

itr206.... what turbo system did u run with the stock internals and how well did they hold up?

I dont have enough money to build up the internals so am i better off leaving it NA? How many pounds of boost is the c5 engine capible of handleing with stock internals?

Greatly appreciated and i hope to join you guys soon!!!

 

"2001 ITRT 2.0Liter V8 Eater
LoveFab SST Manifold
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Apexi N1, 3inch
ACT XT6P
MSD Digitial 6, Wires, BLaster SS , Cap
AEM Fuel rail and FPR
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Walbro 255 hp
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Hondata 4b with P28
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energy Susp Motor mount inserts, Prothane Upper motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushings
Falken Azenis 205x50x15 on 15x6.5 Rota Slips
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JE 9.3:1 Forged Pistons
Eagle rods
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-from his profile

Guess that explains the 303whp at 8psi. I think that's kinda hard to see on stock internals, but I'm not saying it's impossible.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourDoorTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you got the 11:1 compression from specs on the JDM ITR motor. As for forced induction with that high of compression, I would definately recommend investing in a good ECU (i.e. Hondata) and some upgraded injectors/fuel pump. With all that, you should be safe as long as nothing malfunctions. That's the problem with running higher compression and boost, you don't have as much room for error. Not saying that it's a bad thing because I'm about to boost my R motor, but just be careful.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hondata is not a ECU. its a piggy back.

get it tuned right, and no worries even at 11:1 compression....well, that is, until your stock internals begin to wear down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soup **** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hondata is not a ECU. its a piggy back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

*pulls chair* *pops popcorn* *waits for Hondata fans to chime in*

 

thanks for the correction

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soup **** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hondata is not a ECU. its a piggy back.

get it tuned right, and no worries even at 11:1 compression....well, that is, until your stock internals begin to wear down </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your right Hondata is not a ecu....Its a company that makes a Standalone management system for honda and acura's which allows you to fully tune your car to what ever it requires. Also if Hondata is the wrong way to go which way do u suggest