My Dyno results
A few weeks ago I went to Dyno my car for a baseline, I tried getting the Dynojet viewer to work on my computer to no avail
My best run was 162WHP and 122WTQ, My mods are as follows
Filter on a stick 2.5 inch diameter (1993 Integra AEM)
DC sports US spec 4-2-1 header
2.5 mandrel exhaust, magnaflow muffler
No p/s or AC
fuel pressure regulator at 50 PSI hose off.
I am really dissapointed with my numbers and I am wondering what the cause is, the numbers are SAE corrected for my B18C5. Any suggestions as to what the hell is going on, BTW My leakdown and my comp. test numbers were perfect and the car runs perfect, burns half a quart between changes and runs cool as a cucumber (80-82 degrees celcius)
My best run was 162WHP and 122WTQ, My mods are as follows
Filter on a stick 2.5 inch diameter (1993 Integra AEM)
DC sports US spec 4-2-1 header
2.5 mandrel exhaust, magnaflow muffler
No p/s or AC
fuel pressure regulator at 50 PSI hose off.
I am really dissapointed with my numbers and I am wondering what the cause is, the numbers are SAE corrected for my B18C5. Any suggestions as to what the hell is going on, BTW My leakdown and my comp. test numbers were perfect and the car runs perfect, burns half a quart between changes and runs cool as a cucumber (80-82 degrees celcius)
A couple of things present themselves, but primarily why are you using a 2.5" intake when a stock ITR is 3"? Problem number 1.
#2: WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much fuel. The ITR runs rich out of the box, pumping up the fuel pressure is not going to help.
#3: DC header: you have some serious restriction at both ends, intake and exhaust [header]
Going back to number 2... My motor is relatively well built, 11.5:1 CR, todas, intake etc etc and I only run 52psi with the hose off and I was still too rich throughout parts of the power band.
#4: Wide band 02 sensor will really help here.
?
Hope that gives you somewhere to start.
#2: WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much fuel. The ITR runs rich out of the box, pumping up the fuel pressure is not going to help.
#3: DC header: you have some serious restriction at both ends, intake and exhaust [header]
Going back to number 2... My motor is relatively well built, 11.5:1 CR, todas, intake etc etc and I only run 52psi with the hose off and I was still too rich throughout parts of the power band.
#4: Wide band 02 sensor will really help here.
?
Hope that gives you somewhere to start.
I figured the intake was a problem, I have a 2nd gen integra so the options are slim, I am going to make my own intake out of 3 mandrel bent stainless and use an HKS super mega flo thingy.
I am also going to get a DC JDM 4-1 in stainless.
Were should I set my fuel pressure?
Thanks for the help.
[Modified by slowerthanu, 2:33 PM 10/6/2001]
I am also going to get a DC JDM 4-1 in stainless.
Were should I set my fuel pressure?
Thanks for the help.
[Modified by slowerthanu, 2:33 PM 10/6/2001]
I was gonna say, if that's an R, that's a bad number... but on a G2 integ (GS-R?) that's a decent number. I would definitely get rid of the hot-air intake. I'm sure there's a CAI somewhere. Honda motors hate HAI.
Its a B18C5 in a 1993 GS integra. I know the numbers are bad, I honestly think the 2.5 inch intake pipe and the 4-2-1 header are killing my top end. Plus when I hit VTEC I get like an instant JUMP in power. The graph (if I could post it) is real smooth except in VTEC engagement. My buddies ITR (Alaskan98ITR406) made 159 WHP so I think it is the Dyno, not the cars. ITR1236 had a super smooth Graph (I told you guys JUN took care of the VTEC engagement problem).
Dan,
get rid of the DC Sports header. A JDM 4-1, or even a DC JDM 4-1, would do the trick better. It seems as though American companies 4-2-1 headers don't do the job quite as well as their Japanese counterparts.
get rid of the DC Sports header. A JDM 4-1, or even a DC JDM 4-1, would do the trick better. It seems as though American companies 4-2-1 headers don't do the job quite as well as their Japanese counterparts.
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What is fuel pressure stock?
I wont be able to get to a shop manual till monday.
I am borrowing my buddies Stock ITR intake and intake box tonight to se if it makes a differance. I am going to purchase the DC JDM 4-1 this week, the HONDA ITR header will not clear my front crossmember or I would purchase that.
I wont be able to get to a shop manual till monday.
I am borrowing my buddies Stock ITR intake and intake box tonight to se if it makes a differance. I am going to purchase the DC JDM 4-1 this week, the HONDA ITR header will not clear my front crossmember or I would purchase that.
My buddies ITR (Alaskan98ITR406) made 159 WHP so I think it is the Dyno, not the cars.
That's not unusual for an OBD II ITR. I remember averaging a lot of '00 - '01 stock dynos a while back, and the average was actually 158 on Dynojet.
That's not unusual for an OBD II ITR. I remember averaging a lot of '00 - '01 stock dynos a while back, and the average was actually 158 on Dynojet.
Are you sure that the DC 4-1 is going to clear your hydraulic to cable conversion?
As you know Zach, I am never sure about anything with this car, I will play it by ear, The us 4-1 DC clears barely, but I will just have to see with the other.
Filter on a stick 2.5 inch diameter (1993 Integra AEM)
DC sports US spec 4-2-1 header
fuel pressure regulator at 50 PSI hose off.
Well the average B18C5 makes between 158-164 WHP BONE stock with AC and PS through a 2-1/4 inch exhaust. With the mods I had along with how well the car runs I was hoping for atleast 165-170WHP, so was everyone else.
dyno #'s are just dyno #'s. Don't stress over it. You're not that far off. There are strong motors and even stronger motors that come out of the factory. And don't think that bolt-ons will give you a lot of power, they may, but not a whole lot. I'd be happy with those results.
Dan, I think that the sae correction at the local dyno is off. Your car is awesome. It pulls very hard. I loved driving it last night. You definetly have a 13 second car at sea level, so don't worry about it. (it's kind of funny having me say that to you instead of you saying it to me.) Anyway, the car is awesome, and you are going to fly when you get the cams in.
not to be a dick Dan but my b16 put 159.1 whp with bolt ons
we dynoed a stock itr with comptech air filter at 162 whp you guys need to come here to dyno
i get to play around the dyno all day long if i want but i dont have much to tune you know what would be a good fuel setting for my b16 i think i have it about 42 but im not sure
we dynoed a stock itr with comptech air filter at 162 whp you guys need to come here to dyno
i get to play around the dyno all day long if i want but i dont have much to tune you know what would be a good fuel setting for my b16 i think i have it about 42 but im not sure
cam gears. I went throught the same thing back in 98. I/h netted me 163.5hp. I added a muffler and adjustable cam gears and ecu upgrade went to 176hp with 120ftl of torque. No fpr. I still use ps, and ac in tact
Those numbers are not that bad. Remember peak numbers are not what determines if a car is fast or not. You need to look at the bigger picture.
BTW 50 psi of fuel pressure is within spec for a "stock" engine. My stock pressure was at 52 psi.
BTW 50 psi of fuel pressure is within spec for a "stock" engine. My stock pressure was at 52 psi.






