So is there such thing as to light ? If so what would be to light for an n/a setup ? Also I have found these brands right now, Fidanza, Toda, Act and comptech. Did I forget any other ones ? Out of all thoughs which one would be the best ? Toda is a little high so besides Toda what about the other ones ? And what is better, aluminum or chr.molly ? Also which ones come with the detachable faces ?




Modified by 90blackcrx at 5:57 PM 2/2/2004

 

Any other comments are welcome.

 

I'm not experienced with lightweight flywheels, but we're going to run a Fidanza 7.5lb on Hunter's H1 car. It should be running this weekend, if you remind me I'll let you know how he likes it.

 

I have a Clutchmasters 7.5lb in my car. Many people think that the lighter the flywheel, the less torque you have. This, as you can imagine, is not true. It feels like there is less torque because of the difficulties you may have launching the car at first, but once you get used to the lighter rotating weight its not bad at all. Its not a HP mod, it doesn't add anything besides what may come from reducing parasitic losses. Think of it as optimizing the power you already have. Instead of moving the heavy flywheel, its now moving a lighter one and redirecting the excess energy to moving the wheels. Rev-matching will be slightly more difficult, since the heavy flywheel kept its momentum longer since it had more mass. Once you get used to it you will never want to go back. It really does change your car alot. It will especially help a car without alot of torque (hello Honda), since the existing torque will have less "work" to do. I tried to explain it simply, I hope this helps in your decision.

 

Patch I'll try to remember, thanks. Notstock does that flywheel come with the removable friction disc ? If so did you ever have any types of problems with that clutch ?

 

My buddy (b19civichb) has a JUN flywheel in his built, N/A JDM GSR and the only downside to its 6 or 7 pound weight is that it'll stall out after heavy braking once in a while. I'm talking like HUGE heavy braking, but it happens on occasion.

The other issue is the rpm dip when you go from heavy throttle to coasting. It used to stall on occasion after that, but not anymore. It makes the car rev a shitload faster .

 

i've had aasco 9lb flywheel for about 6months on my 00ek. First time I stalled the engine many times. Now I'm so used to the rev matching on this light flywheel I don't know if I want to ever go back. Your foot does a lot of work, more than stock of course. It helped a bit around the corners with rev matching. I am using an un-sprung act level 3 clutch. it's working out great. it makes a bit more noise than before, nothing i can't bear to hear.

 

I have an ACT Prolite (8.8) and think that is just about as light as I would go and if it blew up tomorrow I would get the same thing.

It also depends on which clutch you pair with it. Jaesung's setup took a little bit longer to get used to because he has an aggressive clutch and pressure plate. I have an ACT HDSS on mine and it wasn't much different to drive than stock.

Cheers,
Sean

 

Ok two more questions

Some people are telling me an aluminum will warp, anyone ever see this with there own eyes ?

And for the people that have the detachable facing, did you ever have any types of problems with it ?

 

Aluminum flywheels will not warp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Patch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aluminum flywheels will not warp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard different, not saying it will happen but it could. Also some people are telling me 7lb is to light, some say you will loose to much torque and some say it might shatter. What do you guys think ? RapidRoy why would you stay with the 8.8lb and not go lighter ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
RapidRoy why would you stay with the 8.8lb and not go lighter ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because the 8.8lb is *perfect* (for me). It was exactly what I was looking for from a driveability standpoint.

I was worried that the 8.8lb was to light and had many sleepless nights and many chewed fingernails trying to decide if the 12lb streetlite would have been a better choice. In the end I went lighter, and after driving my car for a total of 2 minutes I knew I made the right decision.

I also don't think there is much to be gained by going lighter than that. The Prolite is almost 10lbs lighter than stock which is a huge difference in rotational mass, and the difference in acceleration was noticeable but it wasn't huge. Losing a pound or 2 pound more wouldn't net any appreciable performance gains and start getting into driveability problems (I spend a lot of time in traffic). To me, it's not worth it to go lighter than that, that's all.

Cheers,
Sean

 

Thanks for your opinion, really appreciate it. See I was a little worried to about the 7lb being to light but a lot of people that have it drive with it every day and never have a problem with it. But back to the other 2 questions, some people are telling me 7lb is to light, some say you will loose to much torque and some say it might shatter


Modified by 90blackcrx at 4:23 PM 2/3/2004

 

No, it wont shatter unless you have a clutch from the darkest recesses of hell. I drive my car with a 7.5lb flyhweel to school, work, parties, whatever. I drive everyday and have had ZERO problems. Those who say you lose torque are full-of-**** morons that dont know anything. They assume since its harder for them to launch the car, it means they lost all thier torque. Ignore them. They are the same people that tell you their butt-dyno is dead on.

As for the guy who said 8.8lbs is as light as he wants, thats probably a good idea. You see, the lighter the flyhweel, the harder it will be to adjust to driving and launching without stalling. For his driving style he didnt need, or wouldnt notice, the extra 1lb over another brand of flywheel and chose to save himself some driveability.

I highly recomend a lighter flywheel as an effective way to speed up engine response dramatically, not a way to increase horsepower.

 

like everyone has made the point, there's pro's and con's.. yes you lose momentum in the flywheel and good revmatching compensates for that. just takes some work.. but aluminum over chromoly?? don't think so.. Chromoly is going to be a lot stronger, and chances are that the alum. fw will break before the chromoly with the same clutch setup.

 

Yeah but how likely is it that a flywheel is gonna shatter ?

 

using aluminum flywheel. so far not worn. the surface is replaceable. i trust the guys from heeltoe. very nice guys and service is top notch. if i were to shatter it i will let you know on pm.