Look at this dyno run, 20WHP for 3000$
http://www.geocities.com/dynocenter/00R_scitr_steve.jpg
Never mind stupid Geo shitties, Well its a usdm Type-R with with a JRSC and a US mugen header and exhaust, it made 185 to the wheels.

[Modified by slowerthanu, 10:54 PM 10/5/2001]


[Modified by slowerthanu, 10:56 PM 10/5/2001]

 

yeah the baseline numbers for a stock JRSC R is around the 180-190whp range. JR however offers these units that help with power, but IMO they are not worth the price.
However I have found ways of making a lot more power.
Just get a JRSC, hook up a hondata system with 440cc's, put a intake on and you'll hit the 200whp mark. (I've seen this result now with around 6 JRSC type R's with that setup).
For put on a exhaust, high flow cat, and header and you could see the 210whp mark. Not bad for a JRSC, fuel system and exhaust system. Then if you want to go more, let me know and I have a solution that can allow you to hit the 230whp mark with good tuning.

 

Not for my R. But just curious of what power output would be for a 2000 Teg GS??

And what parts do I need to accompany the JRSC?

est. WHP?

 

Ive always heard people saying that GSRs make more power supercharged, than a ITR that is supercharged. I found out why, a GSR head has oversized intake ports and air flows right into the combustion chamber. On a B16 and ITR head the air has further to travel. I could be wrong...

 

Could it also be the fact that the ITR has bigger cams? Maybe too big for forced induction?

Has anyone tried a JRSC ITR with GSR cams?

 

HX: Mike M (Rboosted) has.

 

Dave: And what were the results?

 

HX: according to Mike in the other thread, he lost 5-10 HP.. but last I checked he wasn't sure if he used the intake or exhaust cam...

Mike: I'll trade you cams so you can try! hehe

 

Keep this is mind. I have seen numerous dyno graphs where people have spent well over 3K on Toda cams+this+that and LOST hp over stock, or gained like 5 to the wheels @ 8.5K on the tach.

It's always a gamble adding parts like that. You just have to find the right combination.

 

I feel sad for anyone who spends 3k on a JRSC, then another 1k on hondata, only to have 200whp in their R. 4k and 30whp later...what a terrible investment.

 

I'd hate to spend THAT much on forced induction and only make that much power.

 

hey i only got like 180 whp too my first run

 

ITRs have higher compression so i think the JRSC kit for it only makes 5 psi. You can run 8 on the GSR and uts pretty fast, trust me i know When i was running 8 psi and Hondata, i put down 235hp, alot more than any other JRSC ITR. Just my .02

 

i have a charged itr i have all the goodiesyhat jackson offers. im make 214 hsp and 150 trq im inthe processs of tunning it to get more power. the charger kits where ment to be a plug and play turn key reliable. my friend bolted the charger on his itr and got 208 whp and 146trq. the kits are not designed to make large horse power #'s if you want that go turbo. i love turbo but i didnt like the little thing that went wrong with mine, im not saying that jrsc dont have issues. this is my opinion only. if you want real horse power than go turbo. Rboosted i would like the chance to race you sometime maybe the next race or so we can hook up.
i will post my dino plots after i get the last bit of tunning done next week. and i planned on trying the gsr exhaust cam also. there is to much over lap in th itr cams for the charger.

 

Hmmm... With Toda A's, JDM header, modded stock exhaust and testpipe, AEM and cam gears and Field vtec, I made 185 at the wheels (untuned). And that's with the gears set at 0,0 and the sfc vtec set at 0. With a bit of tuning, I'll have spent less than half and make more hp (plus have saved the 30 some pounds over the front wheels that the charger adds).

JRSC's are a money pit on the Type R. Get a GSR and go have fun if you want a charger.

 

where did you dyno at? 208whp on a stock JRSC R is extreamly high. Was that dyno at JR? If so don't believe it.

 

235whp is not a lot more then any JRSC type R. I could name 5 off the top of my head that hit that number. I've seen anywhere from 215-270whp.
here's my plot:


More then any other type R? I think not!


[Modified by Rboosted717, 10:35 PM 10/5/2001]

 

The SC is going to give much needed help down low, not peak. Why are you guys so concerned about peak numbers when SCs mainly help area under the curve? To get better peak numbers, you need to do some tuning.

 

See thats my problem, It isnt turn key reliable, My friends last 98 (sold it to get married) had a JRSC on it and he had terrible problems with part throttle throttle tip in detonation, he also only ran a 14.8 (this is in Utah remember 5000+ feet above sea level) And he had other problem's like the throttle cable bracket and what not, I dont believe it was installer error because he is a cert. Acura Tech, His marriage never happened and he bought another 98 and put a JUN head package and a Mugen Head gasket along with a JUN header and Apexi Exhaust, he pulls 14.6'now and likes the setup alot more.

 

Actually You seem to have spent about 2/3 of the money (2k for the charger, 1k for i/h/e) I have and you're making about 15-20 LESS hp than me. You need to redo your math.

I also doubt you're making more torque to the wheels at 2000rpm than the stock engine makes at the crank at 7800rpm. While that may not be a big difference in overall performance, it is a huge benifit to driveability. I never have to downshift to pass or give it extra gas at a light just to keep up with traffic anymore at all.

Also how much dyno time do you have on your car? I have about 45 minutes on the dyno, to do 6-7 pulls. We got it to 190whp with nothing on the car except for the stock JRSC kit and a VAFC. Since then I've added i/h/e which I'm estimating at 10-15whp.

The part throttle detonation issues have been fixed. It's another 179 dollars for the part (It relocates the MAP to the intake manifold and puts a little black box between the MAP and ECU). This fix has been available for about three months now. I have it and now I'm running 18 degrees timing on pump gas without a hint of detonation. I have no J&S or BTC either.

Part throttle detonation was not only a problem on ITR's. GSR's and Civic Si's have had this problem as well. Go look at the FI section of ClubSi or the FI Hostboard, you'll see that pretty much all JRSC cars have had this problem. Mostly it's a tuning issue that can be fixed either with more fuel (worst/band-aid), the Jackson MAP controller(better) or a Hondata(best).

If we really want to compare reliability, how many JUN or Toda setups have we seen blow up around here? Quite a few, sometimes as many as 2-3 a month come acroos this board. How many turbo cars blow up? Almost all of them, eventually (unless the owner does it right the first time and builds the engine). In the five years I've been into Hondas, and posting on boards like this, I've heard of only a few JRSC Hondas blowing up.

 

I just can't stand maintence on that stupid belt. I had the first kit for D16A back in 96 on my 93 Delsol si.
Now my dad drives the car for daily commuter. Always have to keep eye on belt expansion between summer and winter in east coast weather or u loose the damm belt if it kept slipping! Beside so tight space to adjust the tension pulley all the time. I got so sick of it after one yr, and i bought 97 ITR and sold the car to my dad as a daily beater. I stick with NA factory maintence.

ed lee
Y2K ITR #498
97 ITR #315 RIP

 

Actually You seem to have spent about 2/3 of the money (2k for the charger, 1k for i/h/e) I have and you're making about 15-20 LESS hp than me. You need to redo your math.

Lets see...$900 toda A's (although I only paid $600 for used ones), $375 DC 4-1 JDM header, $20 for stock B-pipe mods, $150 for a comptech axle-back, $175 for an AEM, $150 cam gears. That's a little less than 2/3, wouldn't you say? And where an you find a JRSC for $2000?

I also doubt you're making more torque to the wheels at 2000rpm than the stock engine makes at the crank at 7800rpm. While that may not be a big difference in overall performance, it is a huge benifit to driveability. I never have to downshift to pass or give it extra gas at a light just to keep up with traffic anymore at all.

A bone stock R has fine "driveability" as it is. I don't know how you can qualify or measure "driveability", but detonation problems, that many JRSC's have, probably isn't in the equation.

If you mean torque, then yeah, a JRSC will provide better torque down low. But as you said, in a race that means very little because you aren't driving around at 2000rpms.

Also how much dyno time do you have on your car? I have about 45 minutes on the dyno, to do 6-7 pulls. We got it to 190whp with nothing on the car except for the stock JRSC kit and a VAFC. Since then I've added i/h/e which I'm estimating at 10-15whp.

A grand total of three dyno pulls. Three pulls = 185hp. Let's see what it is when I start tuning.

 

with the fibre pullies I've had no more belt issues...

for who ever made the comment about matching the moderate hp the JRSC provides with an NA car... compare the torque curves... or should I say the NA torque curve to the SC'd torque line above... I mean geeze, 150ft lbs at 3300rpm up to peak and then coming back down to 150ft lbs at 8400rpm...





[Modified by Zeus, 9:58 AM 10/6/2001]

 

I too want to know were you get a NEW JRSC for 2000$ and a GOOD I/H/E for 900$. I never need to downshift to pass in my car, At 75MPH I am at about 3500RPM or so and I just give it some throttle, ITR 1236 on this board is a Good friend of mine, he has had his JUN head package on and spinning to 9100rpm for a year now, never had to crack open a thing on the car, regular Valve adjustments and oil changes are all thats been needed. On the other hand Our local JRSC GSR's are hitting slower times than ITR1236 (13.95 best 14.0 14.1 all day long) and they are far from "bolt-on" JRSC, we are talking 8 pound pullies, water injection and so on and so forth.

I am not here to get into a pissing match with you, I just do not like Jackson Racing and I believe there success is due to there excellent advertising and nothing else.

Oh and reliability huh, lets not forget the outcome of the Honda optional equipment SI challenge.

 

I shopped around and ended up ordering it from a shop in PA called AfterFX. I paid 2k even for a brand new kit. There's deals on the group buy center with the kit, BTC, a couple of gauges, and a few other little extras for ~$2500 all the time. It's not that hard to find deals if you're patient and look around a little.

If you pay more than a grand for an i/h/e you got ripped off IMNSHO. There's absolutely no reason to fork over $800 for a header, or $1000 for an exhaust like many people around here have done. It's crazy. A shop can make a custom exhaust for about $400 most of the time, 3-400 on a header and $150 on an intake.

If you say so. I had to rev past 4k just to keep up with traffic before the blower. I think that's a little torque deficiant.