Does this cap/rotor look right? (regarding TDC)
I triple checked that the crankshaft pulley was turned so Cylinder 1 is at TDC, and the oil pump marker is lined up correctly with the mark on the block. Then I tripled checked that the cam gear was set with "UP" at the top and the TDC marks lined up with the head. But for some reason I dont think the distributor is lining up properly. Should the rotor be turned 180 degrees and pointing toward cylinder 1?? The way it is in the picture is the only way that it will go on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ER-1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look Ok to Me .....</TD></TR></TABLE>
that dizzy doenst look right at all
that dizzy doenst look right at all
yeah it should go on 180 degrees from there I'm pretty sure. you said this is the only way it will go on? there isnt any reason you shouldnt be able to rotate the shaft inside another 180 and will fit.
You would think you could rotate it, but the way the dizzy "key" fits into the cam, there is a slight roundness to one side so it doesnt look like it can flip flop 180 degrees...
your dist. is perfect ,its just like mine and your sitting right on cyl.#1. I dont know about them saying your dizzy is messed up they must be looking for toyota-tech.com or something!!!
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I think its right, the only thing that could be wrong is the cam gear is on the wrong way, but I dont think thats possible because of the cam key. So that is the only way the dizzy will go into the cam, and thats the only way the cam gear can be "UP", so its gotta be right. The manual Im looking at shows differently though so Im not sure. Heres more pics of how its sitting right now and appears to be right, except for the dizzy.
Here is the mark on the crankshaft pulley and block, they are lined up.

Heres the cam gear, in the "UP" position

Heres the piston as TDC for cylinder 1

Heres the rotor seemingly 180 degrees in the wrong direction.

????
Here is the mark on the crankshaft pulley and block, they are lined up.
Heres the cam gear, in the "UP" position
Heres the piston as TDC for cylinder 1
Heres the rotor seemingly 180 degrees in the wrong direction.
????
that's pointing right at the number 1 cylinder!whats the problem?
are you looking at a Haynes manual?
besides,the distributor SHOULDN'T bolt back on the head flush if the rotor is 180 degrees off-the keyway is offset,and if it's backwards it won't easily seat and sit flush.
chris
are you looking at a Haynes manual?
besides,the distributor SHOULDN'T bolt back on the head flush if the rotor is 180 degrees off-the keyway is offset,and if it's backwards it won't easily seat and sit flush.
chris
you can take the dizzy off and line up its key with the camshaft.
set the crank/cam at tdc
then take off the dizzy, and look at the notch that attaches to the cam
it has a key on it that is offset alittle, and the side with more space has a little mark on it
the camshaft has a groove for the at key to fit into,
which is also offset alittle, that way you KNOW you'll have the dizzy on properly,
just fit it in correctly and your set.
btw it IS possible to flip it around 180, even though the key/grove are offset to prevent this. I've done it
mainly because those two pieces can wobble around a bit.
G/L
p.s. if your cars runnin fine.. its probly fine,
if you have the dizzy flipped around 180 the car WILL NOT START.
set the crank/cam at tdc
then take off the dizzy, and look at the notch that attaches to the cam
it has a key on it that is offset alittle, and the side with more space has a little mark on it
the camshaft has a groove for the at key to fit into,
which is also offset alittle, that way you KNOW you'll have the dizzy on properly,
just fit it in correctly and your set.
btw it IS possible to flip it around 180, even though the key/grove are offset to prevent this. I've done it
mainly because those two pieces can wobble around a bit.
G/L
p.s. if your cars runnin fine.. its probly fine,
if you have the dizzy flipped around 180 the car WILL NOT START.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your cars runnin fine.. its probly fine,
if you have the dizzy flipped around 180 the car WILL NOT START.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was just going to say... have you tried to start the car yet?
if it doesn't start, flip it around...
if you have the dizzy flipped around 180 the car WILL NOT START.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was just going to say... have you tried to start the car yet?
if it doesn't start, flip it around...
Let me repeat, YOU CANNOT flip the dizzy around and expect it to fit properly. The key is offset and only fits ONE WAY. Maybe it depends on the motor, but this one will not fit the other way without turning the cam the other way as well.
I checked the firing order, and it appears it will be ok. I have not tried starting the car yet, and the whole reason for doing all this work is because the car suddenly wont start anymore and Ive checked everything in the book. Search around I had another thread about it not starting. If is still doesnt start after this, I will be replacing the igniter as thats the only thing that I have not replaced.
Thanks for the help.
I checked the firing order, and it appears it will be ok. I have not tried starting the car yet, and the whole reason for doing all this work is because the car suddenly wont start anymore and Ive checked everything in the book. Search around I had another thread about it not starting. If is still doesnt start after this, I will be replacing the igniter as thats the only thing that I have not replaced.
Thanks for the help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me repeat, YOU CANNOT flip the dizzy around and expect it to fit properly. The key is offset and only fits ONE WAY. Maybe it depends on the motor, but this one will not fit the other way without turning the cam the other way as well.
I checked the firing order, and it appears it will be ok. I have not tried starting the car yet, and the whole reason for doing all this work is because the car suddenly wont start anymore and Ive checked everything in the book. Search around I had another thread about it not starting. If is still doesnt start after this, I will be replacing the igniter as thats the only thing that I have not replaced.
Thanks for the help. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes you can,
i've done it, and I have the same motor as you.
as I said, the two connecting points can wiggle around abit, letting you fit it on backwards, although your not supposed to be able to.
(which is why I did it by accident, I didnt think I'd let me put it on wrong,
so when it went on wrong I thought I had it on correctly).
but I duno, thats not something that suddenly happens, heh.
what can suddenly happen, is the distributor going bad.
take it off and see that it spins smoothly, if its like grinding a pepper shaker,
or it doesnt want to spin at all... then its fuct.
I checked the firing order, and it appears it will be ok. I have not tried starting the car yet, and the whole reason for doing all this work is because the car suddenly wont start anymore and Ive checked everything in the book. Search around I had another thread about it not starting. If is still doesnt start after this, I will be replacing the igniter as thats the only thing that I have not replaced.
Thanks for the help. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes you can,
i've done it, and I have the same motor as you.
as I said, the two connecting points can wiggle around abit, letting you fit it on backwards, although your not supposed to be able to.
(which is why I did it by accident, I didnt think I'd let me put it on wrong,
so when it went on wrong I thought I had it on correctly).
but I duno, thats not something that suddenly happens, heh.
what can suddenly happen, is the distributor going bad.
take it off and see that it spins smoothly, if its like grinding a pepper shaker,
or it doesnt want to spin at all... then its fuct.
I left it how it was, turned it on and it started right up after a second or two of priming the fuel system. I drove it around a bit seems to run very smooth and quiet, however my check engine came on after a few minutes of driving. I didnt change anything, everything is still stock so Im not sure what that is. I didnt check the timing, I just aligned it by the marks I made when I took it apart so maybe that has something to do with it. Then I was driving and it made a sound like a hose blowing or something and then it went away so I dont know what that was either. But Im beat so Ill be checking it out again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
jump the service check connector and see what code your getting!!
that should help alot to tell whats really going on!
i'd say do that now,
because i've had the problem of the check engine light going away..
then my car would still be busted but I wouldnt be able to check what code it was.
that should help alot to tell whats really going on!
i'd say do that now,
because i've had the problem of the check engine light going away..
then my car would still be busted but I wouldnt be able to check what code it was.
Im gonna try that today. Anyone have a link on how to perform this and what the code means? Im more familiar with DOHC motors and codes but I dont think those are the same for this motor.
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