....what will it take to get me there in an Integra chassis? Weight with driver 2,670lbs. Will be run on STREET TIRES. The car will eventually be totally stripped, but this is just the basic seats/spare tire removal and low tank of gas approach goal.

Planned setup: 84.5mm B18C5, 12.2 compression CP's, I beam rods, fully ported head (not just some clean up job), skunk stage one cams, EF1 valvetrain.

Will be running high quality header (SMSP or the like) and full 2.5" mandrel exhaust.

Tuning via my current Hondata setup with DSM 450's.

Yeah, yeah I know those are weak cams but I want to see where they take me first since I already have them.

Also have a fidanza flywheel and Action clutch installed.

I'm not asking for a precise answer because I know it doesn't exsist, but I want to know what it has taken you guys in terms of whp to achieve such traps. I would think 215-220whp would be withing my grasp and possibly even more with some bigger cams.

The cars current best trap was 100.89mph, stock weight ITR, putting down only 173whp on 22lb CRV steelies. It seems to produce strong trap speeds for the dyno numbers IMO. Drag strip is at sea level.

What would you change? What do I definitely need? Will I be able to achieve it easily? Will a higher final drive help? Should I shoot higher than 106mph for such a setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">. Weight with driver 2,670lbs.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

248 whp = 106 mph trap at that weight.

 

Definitely need money.

Go with some bigger cams than the stage 1's. And get some dyno time on the bigger cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Top Ramen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

248 whp = 106 mph trap at that weight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What equation did you use for that?

 

yeah I would agree 106 is something with a car making more then 220 in a car weighing in 300 punds less then you car. I mean your times are dope but I have been around along time and those number dont sound right with the mods you have. 220 will be pushing it with the setup you just mentioned but good luck let us know how it goes you get good traps now **** you should be in the 12's since you seem to be the best itr driver there has ever been

with the port jod are you having your chambers welded? how much you milling? you upgrade your fuel pump since you will have to rev out your car alot more then 8.5 k.

 

I make around 220 and I trapped at 105 with my gsr Im not
sure what I wiegh though

 

a fast car will get you there


beer to you cuase ive had to many

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmtrwhore2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah I would agree 106 is something with a car making more then 220 in a car weighing in 300 punds less then you car. I mean your times are dope but I have been around along time and those number dont sound right with the mods you have. 220 will be pushing it with the setup you just mentioned but good luck let us know how it goes you get good traps now **** you should be in the 12's since you seem to be the best itr driver there has ever been

with the port jod are you having your chambers welded? how much you milling? you upgrade your fuel pump since you will have to rev out your car alot more then 8.5 k.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I guranteed I'm not lying about how much my car made to trap 100.89mph. Would you like me to tell you that it trapped 100.7mph with less power than that, because it did.

For the guy that said it would take 248whp where did you get that from? I forgot the guys name but he trapped 104.9mph with 188whp and the car weighed 2,600lbs with driver. Yes he was a bad ace driver, but I'm not exactly crap either.

Any other all motor integra guys have input on what it takes? Maybe SGT can post up what some of his cars weighed.

By the way the car does have an upgraded fuel pump for the person that asked.

 

hey active I never once said you lied "**** all props if you did" dont take what I said out of context

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmtrwhore2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey active I never once said you lied "**** all props if you did" dont take what I said out of context </TD></TR></TABLE>

No prob, I didn't think you were really saying I was lying, just reassuring that it does run what it runs.

 

2590 with me
22x8x13 slicks
12.7@109
210whp

gordon i believe weighed a little more liek 2630-2650
200whp
same slicks
12.8@107

Both are 1.8L ITRs 97 and 00

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2590 with me
22x8x13 slicks
12.7@109
210whp

gordon i believe weighed a little more liek 2630-2650
200whp
same slicks
12.8@107

Both are 1.8L ITRs 97 and 00</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you. It seems then that my goal is reasonable.

 

have you thought about just getting the smsp header, having someone do a good port and valve job on a gsr head and then have it tuned and see what it runs?

unless your bottom end is completely toast I would keep it simple and still run on your bottom end and upgrade other stuff first.

see if you need more top end power, or if you dont have enough torque

its a personal biased opinion of mine that running a built, sleeved, and forged pistons is a lil more of a pain and risk. I would rather sacrifice power and save money and gain some reliability of running a stock bottom end.

edit:
skunk2 stage 1 cams will prolly be a decent cam. I guy I know locally (jonnybravo) on this board has a jdmitr bottom end with smsp header, ported head, and hondata only lost a few pk whp from going from stage 2 --&gt; stage 1

I dont know what the difference would be if he was running a 2.0liter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blykins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What equation did you use for that? </TD></TR></TABLE>

its simple physics that comes from newtons second law of motion.

you can find charts online or in the high perfromance honda builders handbook that list all possible combinations so you dont have to do the math yourself.

this math however doesnt factor in dif conditions such as gearing and such for example you said you had a 100mph trap speed and by this chart you would be making about 208 hp

 

Its all about the B16A!!!!


http://www.gzperformance.com/videos/snow13.mpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you thought about just getting the smsp header, having someone do a good port and valve job on a gsr head and then have it tuned and see what it runs?

unless your bottom end is completely toast I would keep it simple and still run on your bottom end and upgrade other stuff first.

see if you need more top end power, or if you dont have enough torque

its a personal biased opinion of mine that running a built, sleeved, and forged pistons is a lil more of a pain and risk. I would rather sacrifice power and save money and gain some reliability of running a stock bottom end.

edit:
skunk2 stage 1 cams will prolly be a decent cam. I guy I know locally (jonnybravo) on this board has a jdmitr bottom end with smsp header, ported head, and hondata only lost a few pk whp from going from stage 2 --&gt; stage 1

I dont know what the difference would be if he was running a 2.0liter

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the input. Even though I have 84.5mm CP pistons on the way I'm still debating selling them and just staying 1.8liter with a set of CTR pistons and just refreshing the bottom end. One of my big concerns is this will be my first engine build. I'd hate to mess up and destroy 4k in parts as my learning experience.

 

did you get some feedback from steve saying that you were gona build your own motor?

I know enough about building motors, that its a hard thing to do.

if i wanted to learn to build a motor, i would start with a b16 block and crank (you can get them for under 250 easy) and built that motor and see how it runs.

one small mistake in building a motor can lead to the whole motor going to ****.

just know what you are getting into before hand.

As i learn more and more about the honda acura **** and going faster. getting a b20z with a ported gsr head, jun 3's and smsp header tuned by hondata is a relatively cheap way to make decent power.

if the motor blows up, you are only out a few hundred bucks. versus the 84mm with cp pistons and bling rods, you are out 1-4k depending upon how much **** went wrong.

think of tbones motor. he was trying to push the limit of pretty much all his parts, he made a mistake with measuring valve to valve clearance, whenever you are tyring to make big power EVERYTHING needs to be 2x checked and in really good working order.
just remember it takes alot of money to make 220+whp and its not always the easiest.

it can be done, with enough time and money though

ask some people who have built their own motor or who have done something similar to what you want. remeber hindsight is 20/20 and they have seen it, that is prolly some of the best advice you can get, is from someone who has already done it.

go ahead and ask len why he is selling his toda all motor setup, hehe

 

if this is your 1st engine rebuild and your spending that much $ i would save myself a major headache an have some one help you or just pay some one else.just me theres alot to do to have a well built motor im in school right know for high performance motors and its on picinic building a succesful motor.

if your thinking w/210-215 wph you'll be in the low 13's you bring me hope cuz i think i'll be around the same hp but i have 4 doors.

 

Well here is my deal. I really don't want to push the limits, just a nice high quality build. Like I said I want to run around low 12's compression, which is definitely not pushing any bounderies. This is also another reason for me wanting to stick with my current stage one cams. They are very mild, but I shouldn't have to worry about any piston to valve contact issues with them, especially if a run a complete and high quality valve train.

Although I will be very nervous building my first engine I don't plan on skimping out regardless if I go 2.0 or not. I plan measuring everything with a mic and dial calipers, not just relying on plastigauge, although it will be used to double check everything. Even though I plan on sending the block to a quality machine shop it will be checked again by me regardless. Rod's will not be torqued, but done with a rod bolt stretch gauge for maximum precision. Block will be clayed as well even if I stick with my mild cams. I have another car to drive so I plan on spending extra time checking and re-checking every part.