Hey does anyone have any clue what is up with my lude? It doen't want to turnover. When I turn the key it clicks like its about to turn over but then it never does. I've checked all the electrical currents and they're what they should be. Thanks for any help!

 

sounds your battery is almost dead.

 

Your starter might be going bad. You can always try to bang/tap it with a hammer and it might start. If not, yank it then have autozone check it out for you.

 

If its the fast loud clicking noise then your battery is not giving enough power to turn your engine.

Try charging your battery or just replace it

 

like everyone else says, it sounds like your battery

 

Get a friend to give you a jump.

 

How cold is it there ??

It's -30 celcius, -40 w/ windchill (thats the same in farenheigt .. sp?) ... My car started w/ remote today and then stalled ...

It clicks now, im sure the battery is either dead/frozen. Gonna call AMA and get a boost then program compustar to start every 3 hours .. now this is CDN COLD!

I'd recommend a friend with a BIg battery/truck to help you get started if its because of temperature, and keep that car plugged in.

 

I have the auto start set on my prelude for when the batt goes below a certain voltage and temperature is settable but I dont need it while its on axle stands.

They said we were going to have a blizzard here in England but we had a lil' bit of sun but very cold wind, no Snow.

 

Yohan, some of the trucks are 24v!

So is this the 'really bad' wethaer you see in the states or just a taste?

 

battery

 

if it is cold where you are take your battery inside for a while until it warms up... then give it a shot while it is still warm..

 

About you try a rolling start... Looks like you have a 5spd... Try it out

 

ya... i've already checked the battery and alternator... tried a jump and a push start. Nothing has worked!!!????

 

then I would guess it's your ignition...

 

do you have fuel and spark?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killa_lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have fuel and spark?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah check for spark by taking off one of the plug wires and put it on the head and watch for spark and also after a while you should get a fuel smell so look for that too.

Then if you have those go and tap on the starter with a screwdriver or hammer and if that doesnt work take it out and bring it to a place that tests starters and have them check it.

 

He won't have spark if the engine isn't turning over. So if it will not start via a jump or pop(roll) starting it then that would lead me to believe that the ignition is not switching on. Could be a lose wire, or could need a whole new thing.

 

YA... thanks for all the help. Turned out to be the igntion. I guess i had a bad cam sensor. Does anyone know if i can by the sensor seperate or do i hve to get the whole distributor assembly as a kit (including cap, rotor, shaft, coil, etc.) ?????

 

Cam sensor? In the distributor? Someone help me out on this. The only sensors I know of in the distributor is the CKP/Crankshaft Position sensor, CYP/Cylinder position sensor, and the TDC/Top Dead Center sensor, and if any of those goes bad you will need a new distributor..

Heres alittle something I dug up just for you , that will help you determan if any of those are bad..

Tools needed:
Multimeter/ohmmeter

Look at the distributor and you'll see a grey plug that has 7 (internal coil) or 8 (external coil) wires in it. Unplug that. It should look something like this.
......................................
............________.............
.._____/...............\____...
..|..............................|..
..|...1.....2....3......4......|..
..|..............................|..
..|...5.....6....7......8......|..
..|..............................|..
..|----------------------|..
......................................
(pin 5 should be blank on internal coil and should be green on external coil)

Now, you want to measure the resistance between pins 3 and 7. It should read 350-370 ohms. Measure resistance between pins 2 and 6. Should also read 350-370ohms. Measure resistance between pins 4 and 8. Should also read 350-370 ohms. Now test for continuity between pins 2 and 6 and also between pins 4 and 8. Continuity should not exist between those pins. If any of those do not read what they're supposed to, you need a new distributor..