anyone have a traction bar and a 3 inch downpipe.

any brand
summit racing
z10
jim fab.

hows the clearance . which one are you using.

thanks

platinum.

 

i am wondering this also. someone with these please chime in to help us out.

 

I had no problems on my integra w/ Z10 traction bars and Full-Race 3" downpipe or my Arturbo(Revhard) 2.5-3" downpipe

 

z10s fit the best, but work the worst.

jimfabs work the best, but fit the worst.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">z10s fit the best, but work the worst.

jimfabs work the best, but fit the worst.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats a tongue twister..lol

 

My Jimfab's are a PITFA. I had to make a downpipe with some TIGHT radius's to get the 3" to fit... and it's only got about 1/4" between the bottom of the downpipe and the traction bar's crossmember now. :/

 

so the z10 fit's the best. as in clearance or just overall

why does it not work as well.


SIR kID&gt; what kinda car do you have , the 91 si ??

platinum.

 

the z10 bars don't follow the triangulation of the stock suspension... Geoff has pictures of whats goin on somewhere i think. They still get the job done on the track but will bind up ur suspension on the street where they need alot of movement. I havn't had too many problems w/ binding, only when I lay on the brakes full-out.

 

anyone heard some info about the Lakewood who Summit sell ? just to know ?

On my D16Z6 3 inch DP... no AC, can I fit a Jimfab bar ???

Good thread here !

 

can you explain binding the suspension a bit more

is this only a problem under breaking. or will this hurt my over suspension in cornering and launching. primary cornering.

is this only with certian setups or all suspension setups with the z10..

platinum.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">z10s fit the best, but work the worst.

jimfabs work the best, but fit the worst.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Geoff any update on when those full-race traction bars are coming out?

 

they should have been released a while ago, but we have been building a race car for someone (last minute of course) which has really pushed things back a bit

expect the beginning of march to be a true release date

 

Any pictures of your traction bars ? What will be the price on them ?

 

Geoff can u explain the suspension and how the Z10 bars don't follow the right angle? I know what it is when im looking at it but I don't have the slightest clue on how to explain it.

 

ttt

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they should have been released a while ago, but we have been building a race car for someone (last minute of course) which has really pushed things back a bit

expect the beginning of march to be a true release date</TD></TR></TABLE>


you making them for the 99-00Si?

 

Here's the little "article" post I made about my installation of my JimFab's on my 91 Si.

My JimFab Experience

And here's a few pics of what we did with the 3" downpipe.

Tiiiite radius 3" donut bends, yo!

 

If I had a set, heres what I would do:
Find out where the DP is going to crosss. Get some 1" piping(same diameter as the crossmember).
Bend it
Weld it on where the DP will cross with apex of the radius facing forward(so there is more room for a DP)
Then cut out the straight section behind the U-bend. It would be wise to do this while on the car, but if done right, itll still bolt up beautifully, and be just as strong as a straight piece. Itll of course void any warrantees(if Applicable), but you can fit a 3" DP easily.
Hell, I bet if you ask Jim, he will modify one for a small charge!

 

Sorry, but it won't be anywhere near as strong if you do that...

 

This is the reason why I'm gonna face the compressor to the driver's side, so the DP doesn't need to twist between the turbo and the crossmember. I think it will be 10x easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, but it won't be anywhere near as strong if you do that...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even with the appropriate gussets on the ends where the metal was cut? I know it wont be AS strong, but I would think the middle of the crossmember is not a SUPER crucial areas in reguards to strength anyway(since all the pushing/pulling from the arms are on the ends).

 

For the most part, the radius rods will be in compression. Any time you bend a tube, you loose alot of rigidity. That tube will flex the most with that bend in the middle because the points where the force is coming from will have the most leverage on it. It would work with the bend, I am just saying it won't be nearly as rigid. If you want to do it right, make a new one that has the bar in the same place as the z10, but with the right geometry.

 

you talking about bending it like so...?
I have pics with 3" i will post up later, i cant find the pic right now

 

wow. I never realized that the aftermarket crossmembers offered had such limited clearance. I made mine and I have easily a foot in front of my block/oilpan to the crossmember! My car has the radiator cut out but I've done the same crossmember and kept the radiator support and it still had about 9".