Turbo Timer and Alarm
Does anybody here know how to wire those 2 so that the alarm can be armed, and the turbo timer running at the same time? This is for my friends 99 eclipse gst, just in case you need to know.
You can use an alarm with a remote start feature. Most of these units have a run/stop feature that allows you to take the key out, leave the engine running and arm the alarm. The engine will continue to run for the programmed amount of time.
Do you already have an alarm and turbo timer? If so what models do you have?
Do you already have an alarm and turbo timer? If so what models do you have?
or you can cut the wire on the alarm that makes it so the alarm only works while running. YOu may have to disengage the knock sensor to do this. I have drawn up a schemitic of how to do this. It also allows for a fuel cut off switch to be hit that will not let the fuel pump turn on after the car shuts off. but it will remain on until the turbo timer is done doing its thing. Let me know if you are interested and i can post it up here.
Some alarms have it built in if you hold the lock button for a few secs it will arm even if the car is running.
Some alarms have it built in if you hold the lock button for a few secs it will arm even if the car is running.
Here it is anyways
and the ignition wire that you need to cut on the alarm is yellow on dei alarms. check it out 1st tho.
if you aren't doing the fuel shut off then you just do the bottom part and cut and tape that wire.
Modified by acuradriva at 3:36 PM 1/22/2004
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here it is anyways
and the ignition wire that you need to cut on the alarm is yellow on dei alarms. check it out 1st tho.
if you aren't doing the fuel shut off then you just do the bottom part and cut and tape that wire.
Modified by acuradriva at 3:36 PM 1/22/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your first diagram is a little confusing. Can you explain the flow because I can't see how this will work. Here's how I interpreted your diagram. When relay #1 is energized (by turning on the ignition), 12v+ will flow to pin 30 on relay #2. When relay #2 is at rest, 12v+ will flow to a manual switch (toggle I assume). If 85 on relay #2 is also connected to this switch and the switch is turned "ON", the relay will be stuck in an infinite loop of clicking on and off until the switch is turned off.
Here it is anyways
and the ignition wire that you need to cut on the alarm is yellow on dei alarms. check it out 1st tho.
if you aren't doing the fuel shut off then you just do the bottom part and cut and tape that wire.
Modified by acuradriva at 3:36 PM 1/22/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your first diagram is a little confusing. Can you explain the flow because I can't see how this will work. Here's how I interpreted your diagram. When relay #1 is energized (by turning on the ignition), 12v+ will flow to pin 30 on relay #2. When relay #2 is at rest, 12v+ will flow to a manual switch (toggle I assume). If 85 on relay #2 is also connected to this switch and the switch is turned "ON", the relay will be stuck in an infinite loop of clicking on and off until the switch is turned off.
Here's what I came up with:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7jtrr/
Click on the second diagram.
When starting the car normally, the toggle switch should be set to "ON." This will allow relay #2 to provide power to the fuel pump so the car can crank over. When the turbo timer is activated, the switch should be turned "OFF." The turbo timer will keep both relays energized until it turns off. After the turbo timer shuts down and with the toggle switch set to "OFF," the car will not crank over.
IMO the easiest way to automate this process is to get an alarm with remote start. If you can afford a turbo, you can afford a decent alarm. But for those who only believe in manual kill-switches, the above diagram should work.
Modified by HondaDriver4Life at 1:18 PM 1/23/2004
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7jtrr/
Click on the second diagram.
When starting the car normally, the toggle switch should be set to "ON." This will allow relay #2 to provide power to the fuel pump so the car can crank over. When the turbo timer is activated, the switch should be turned "OFF." The turbo timer will keep both relays energized until it turns off. After the turbo timer shuts down and with the toggle switch set to "OFF," the car will not crank over.
IMO the easiest way to automate this process is to get an alarm with remote start. If you can afford a turbo, you can afford a decent alarm. But for those who only believe in manual kill-switches, the above diagram should work.
Modified by HondaDriver4Life at 1:18 PM 1/23/2004
Here's how you can temporarily bypass the ignition trigger input and shock sensor.
Click on the first diagram on the home page.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7jtrr/
The second relay diagram is basically the same as acuradriva's. The first relay setup allows you bypass the ignition trigger only when the turbo timer is activated. As a result, you don't have to lose a layer of security by cutting the ignition trigger input wire.
Modified by HondaDriver4Life at 1:17 PM 1/23/2004
Click on the first diagram on the home page.
http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7jtrr/
The second relay diagram is basically the same as acuradriva's. The first relay setup allows you bypass the ignition trigger only when the turbo timer is activated. As a result, you don't have to lose a layer of security by cutting the ignition trigger input wire.
Modified by HondaDriver4Life at 1:17 PM 1/23/2004
that will work if the power from the timer only comes on when the car shuts off. Do you know it does? i read it out last nite it had power all the time. i was going to cut the wire(its connected now) to check if it would work or not.
Which diagram are you referring to (I'm assuming the fuel cutoff diagram)? Which wire are you going to cut?
Here's a more detailed flow of how the relays work....
Assume in this scenario, the car is already running. Once the turbo timer is activated, 12v+ is sent through the ignition 2 output and energizes the coil of relay 1. The car's ignition system is fed 12v+ through the turbo timer's ignition 1 output. As a result, 86 on relay 2 will also see 12v+ at this point. Next, a ground signal is sent to 85 on relay 2 thus energizing it's coil. On relay 2, 87 and 30 connect thus providing power to the fuel pump. At this point, the key can be taken out and the toggle switch can be set to the off position so that the fuel pump will be disabled once the turbo timer shuts off. Once the turbo timer shuts off, relay 1 will shut off but relay 2 will still have the ability to work since its coil is also controlled by the toggle switch and car's ignition. Relay 2 is your typical normally-open starter/ignition/fuel kill.
To recap....relay 1 only has power when the turbo timer is on. Relay 2 only has power when the turbo timer is on OR when the ignition and toggle switch are turned ON. At any other time, the relays are at rest.
BTW...I use this setup now but instead of a toggle switch (relay 2), I use the ground-when-disarmed output of my alarm. Also, since my alarm has a ground-when-remote started output, there's no need to have relay 1.
Modified by HondaDriver4Life at 5:45 AM 1/24/2004
Here's a more detailed flow of how the relays work....
Assume in this scenario, the car is already running. Once the turbo timer is activated, 12v+ is sent through the ignition 2 output and energizes the coil of relay 1. The car's ignition system is fed 12v+ through the turbo timer's ignition 1 output. As a result, 86 on relay 2 will also see 12v+ at this point. Next, a ground signal is sent to 85 on relay 2 thus energizing it's coil. On relay 2, 87 and 30 connect thus providing power to the fuel pump. At this point, the key can be taken out and the toggle switch can be set to the off position so that the fuel pump will be disabled once the turbo timer shuts off. Once the turbo timer shuts off, relay 1 will shut off but relay 2 will still have the ability to work since its coil is also controlled by the toggle switch and car's ignition. Relay 2 is your typical normally-open starter/ignition/fuel kill.
To recap....relay 1 only has power when the turbo timer is on. Relay 2 only has power when the turbo timer is on OR when the ignition and toggle switch are turned ON. At any other time, the relays are at rest.
BTW...I use this setup now but instead of a toggle switch (relay 2), I use the ground-when-disarmed output of my alarm. Also, since my alarm has a ground-when-remote started output, there's no need to have relay 1.
Modified by HondaDriver4Life at 5:45 AM 1/24/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that will work if the power from the timer only comes on when the car shuts off. Do you know it does? i read it out last nite it had power all the time. i was going to cut the wire(its connected now) to check if it would work or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am refering to the blue wire on the tt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll assume that the blue is the ignition 2 output. Is it an APEX-i unit?
I'm still not sure where you're getting confused? Are you saying that relay 2 won't work or that both relays won't work? When the car shuts off after the tt times out, relay 2 will interrupt the fuel pump as long as the toggle switch is set to off. Relay 1 only works when tt is ON and when the blue wire outputs 12v+. You don't have to cut the wire to test this....just use a digital MM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuradriva »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am refering to the blue wire on the tt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll assume that the blue is the ignition 2 output. Is it an APEX-i unit?
I'm still not sure where you're getting confused? Are you saying that relay 2 won't work or that both relays won't work? When the car shuts off after the tt times out, relay 2 will interrupt the fuel pump as long as the toggle switch is set to off. Relay 1 only works when tt is ON and when the blue wire outputs 12v+. You don't have to cut the wire to test this....just use a digital MM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Boostless97Lude
Forced Induction
29
Nov 4, 2005 12:36 PM
boostincoupe
Audio / Security / Video
1
Jul 8, 2003 07:19 AM
VTEC-DA
Audio / Security / Video
7
Sep 17, 2002 09:47 AM



