Anyone know if most/all honda distributor igniters are interchangeable? I got a starting problem with my 1992 civic dx, and it was suggested to be the igniter and I want to swap my ITR igniter to see if it works. I already tried to use the ITR main relay but that didnt help. Thanks

 

Looks the same....

ITR Igniter # 8

Civic Igniter # 7 or 9 I think

 

I used to swap them between my B16-1st gen. and d15/16 ignitors all the time. They usually have parts that are just a few numbers off, but work with no problems. If it fits, give it a try. What are your symptoms?

 

Thanks for the info

lots of symptoms, pretty long thread...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=737769

feel free to offer suggestions

 

alright, my other thread is too long so Im gonna continue this one. I know its not ITR related, but its the same concept for both D and B series motors. Please offer some suggestions.

If the igniter is going bad or is bad, will the car start at all? This is what happens. If I let the car sit for awhile without trying to start it, say 1 day, when I go to start it, it will fire right up, run for 5 secs, then sputter and die. If I try to start it again, it might run for 2 secs, then die. If I try again, it just cranks. WTF is going on?? Can the igniter work once or twice and then stop working like that???

When I tried to start it the first time tonight, it ran for 5 secs, and there was loud tapping/knocking(definitely not the valves ticking). Sometimes it will do that when starting but it seems after it warms up some, it goes away. This is really pissing me off and I NEED to get this car back on the road.

Things Ive ruled out:
Battery
Main relay
oil level is fine
fuel filter is new
plugs are recent, but cant get them out
cap/rotor are recent
car runs fine when it actually runs, no signs of hesitation or smoke or anything

 

how cold is it where you're at?

 

Fuel pump?

 

I was also thinking the fuel pump or maybe it has a short and does not stay on 100%

 

Weather is not a problem, it hasnt been above freezing in a few weeks but it started fine last week when it was -10 each morning. Weather isnt a factor.

Fuel pump sounds like its coming on fine when put in ON position, unless maybe its fuel pressure problem or something? Not sure how to check that without a gauge, maybe Ill have to pick one up.

grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

I used an Ignitor off of an SI when mine went bad, same numbers on the part itself but different part #'s due to different brackets used. If you get the SI one just unscrew the bracket and replace with the one off the ITR Ignitor.

Goodluck

 

Im replying to this thread because I am having a very similar problem. I have fuel, it turns over, but I am not getting any spark. This is on a B16A.

Guy on here told me to do this, directions to test BOTH the ignitor and the coil from a Honda service manual. I will be testing mine later today.

"yes you can test the coil and the ICM, but you need an ohm meter and a volt meter... the specs are:
Coil - Primary Winding Resistance (Between the A and B terminals): .6 - .8 ohms
Secondary Winding Resistance (Between the A and secondary winding terminals): 12,800 - 19,200 ohms
ICM -
1. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM
2. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
- If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the igniton switch and the ICM.
- If there is bagttery voltage, to to 3.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check fro voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
- If ther is no battery voltage, check:
- Ignition coil.
- WHT/BLU wire between the coil and the ICM
- If there is battery voltage, go to 4
4. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM
5. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
6. If all tests are normal, replace the ICM

*Taken from honda service manual for 1994 Honda del Sol, omitted step 1 (take off dizzy cap, figured it was a no brainer )
"-FrostySol


Hope this helps. If you have a multimeter give it a try. Goodluck.

 

Someone sent me some info about how to do a fuel pump flow test. Im gonna give that a shot first since I dont think its a spark problem.