Is there any parts for about 300$ for the Accord that is a really good for pwr or that will be an asset for when I turbo the car? Would sending any of my stuff off to good be worth it? Ive heard nothing but gude stuff about them.

http://gude.com/

 

you could pick up a lightweight flywheel for about that price.
You could have a shop do work on the intake manifold.
Also consider things that do not make more power themselves, but will improve your car's ability to cope with its newfound power
you could get a phantom grip insert to help with traction issues when you have more power.
slightly upgraded braking system.

meh, thats all i got

 

I have automatic too that sucks. I guess I could get Nitrous would it be bad to have nitrous if you have a oil leak i think it leaks from the rear main seal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tharptroy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could pick up a lightweight flywheel for about that price.
You could have a shop do work on the intake manifold.
Also consider things that do not make more power themselves, but will improve your car's ability to cope with its newfound power
you could get a phantom grip insert to help with traction issues when you have more power.
slightly upgraded braking system.

meh, thats all i got</TD></TR></TABLE>

phantom grip is crap quaife is the best


good luck going turbo on a auto...cause it won't last long

 

Really Im going to change the tranny I guess that would be something to get first before I turbo. How much would a good cam be for the accord? What brand and how hard are they to change? What kind of Hp about 20?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knowtomorrow3001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really Im going to change the tranny I guess that would be something to get first before I turbo. How much would a good cam be for the accord? What brand and how hard are they to change? What kind of Hp about 20?</TD></TR></TABLE>

there are two potential problems

1. the only cams that are available for accords are regrinds which are not as strong which can lead to failure and they limited to the amount that can be grinded so hp gain may not be worth it.

2. the cam regrind you get may not be good for turbo. generally companies sell a turbo grind, not sure if that is available for accords.

i would save that $300 towards a tranny swap or turbo it till the auto blows and then tranny swap.

 

How much would a good cam be for the accord? What brand and how hard are they to change? What kind of Hp about 20? Would the H23 tranny be the best to get and how much would a swap prob cost how long would it take just as an estimate? I guess I forget about the cam

im glad everyone has got used to my bad grammar i think. anyone got hooked on phonics i will buy it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by knowtomorrow3001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much would a good cam be for the accord? What brand and how hard are they to change? What kind of Hp about 20? Would the H23 tranny be the best to get and how much would a swap prob cost how long would it take just as an estimate?

im glad everyone has got used to my bad grammar i think. anyone got hooked on phonics i will buy it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

everyone goes with gude cams, cause i think they may be only maker. i highly doubt 20hp, probably 10hp. to change them you need know what you are doing cause you can mess it up. i would expect about 2-3hrs in labor though.

as for tranny, get a F22b1 or tranny other F22 tranny. an H23 or H22 will way too short of gearing for a F22 turbo. 5sp swaps cost around $1200 in parts, tranny and in labor.

 

Really i have a 5 speed accord at the house that is wrecked its a non vtec would that work? Its a 95 t00

 

The 5speed from your non vtec should fit...I doubt there was any mechanical difference between the two models when it comes to the tranny. But if you allready have a wrecked accord 5 speed thats not doing anything but sitting there why not save your money and turn that car into your project while keeping your working accord as a daily driver. Just my two cents.

Stephen

 

because the body is totally destoyed they had to cut the top off with the jaws of life. Good idea though

 

knowtomorrow3001: kind of off topic but where did you get your headlights from i saw your car in the pic thread... just wondering cuz i like them a lot

 

Ebay, now that I changed to silverstar bulbs there great

 

Dude...I'd totally do the 5spd conversion....frees up so much more power & torque.

I think the lost horsepower with an auto tranny is like 34% vs. a 5spd is something like 15%....(i think)

Can someone check those numbers?

It's quite satisfying being able to brake, heel-toe downshift, perfectly engage a lower gear, corner-apex, then mash the gas and start over...ahhhhhhhh.

Auto = wimpy-wimpy help me find my gear please

Do the 5spd !

 

Yeah I will do the 5 speed anyone have any walk throughs or info I will need thanks?

 

this is from a post way up in the beginning of this thread but he keeps mentioning he wants to boost his car...with turbo or nitrous....but he also mentioned something about an oil leak. Why doesnt he take that $300 and get the oil leak fixed up first then boost the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jagged4698 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is from a post way up in the beginning of this thread but he keeps mentioning he wants to boost his car...with turbo or nitrous....but he also mentioned something about an oil leak. Why doesnt he take that $300 and get the oil leak fixed up first then boost the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

more like spending 300 for buy a new engine, that;s how much those f22 are.

I should've bring my digital camera with me last sunday.
i drove to a tire/wheel place and they use 2 perfect f22b2 as a weight.
doing nothing just collecting dusts.

 

Bolt-ons, and N20.

Or

Skip the bolt-ons, and N20. Then, just boost the hell out of the F22.

 

h22 swap save your money. just got mine reliable and got *****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KGAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

everyone goes with gude cams, cause i think they may be only maker. i highly doubt 20hp, probably 10hp. to change them you need know what you are doing cause you can mess it up. i would expect about 2-3hrs in labor though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's just plain incorrect...

there are about 6-7 places that will regrind an Accord cam besides Gude... search and the answers will be found... Crower, Web, Schnieder, exopseed, KMS, Rocket MS, and my personal favorite, Delta. I've even heard a rumor that KMS was working on an F22 cam from billets...but their shady reputation is a close second to Gude's when it comes to customer service...

I'd say more reasonable gains like 10-15hp can be had on the upper end of the spectrum on a street driven car... but it is a tradeoff, you do lose drivability in certain parts of the rpm spectrum with the higher power gains... so for a good streetable cam expect roughly 8-10 on avg throughout the rpm range... but any cam that will give you good NA power will surely rob hp on a turbo setup...turbo cams are pretty mild.

It does take about 2 hours minimum the first time though, being extra careful and whatnot... but like the man said be careful and do NOT attempt it without a decent manual and decent tools(ie: a good tq wrench)... there are very specific instructions to the disassembly/re-assembly process...

 

[QUOTE=ZigenBallz]

That's just plain incorrect...

there are about 6-7 places that will regrind an Accord cam besides Gude... search and the answers will be found... Crower, Web, Schnieder, exopseed, KMS, Rocket MS, and my personal favorite, Delta. I've even heard a rumor that KMS was working on an F22 cam from billets...but their shady reputation is a close second to Gude's when it comes to customer service...

I'd say more reasonable gains like 10-15hp can be had on the upper end of the spectrum on a street driven car... but it is a tradeoff, you do lose drivability in certain parts of the rpm spectrum with the higher power gains... so for a good streetable cam expect roughly 8-10 on avg throughout the rpm range... but any cam that will give you good NA power will surely rob hp on a turbo setup...turbo cams are pretty mild.

QUOTE]

wow the aftermarket woke up to the F22 finally. i would atleast stay away from Gude then and go with Crower cause they are a big name manufacturer of cams so quality should be there along with being a good company.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KGAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wow the aftermarket woke up to the F22 finally. i would atleast stay away from Gude then and go with Crower cause they are a big name manufacturer of cams so quality should be there along with being a good company.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually... with the exceptions of exospeed, KMS & Rocket, all of these companies have been regrinding all sorts of cams for years... You just didn't look hard enough KG...

and having dealt with Crower personally, I'd say avoid them. Good company with some good tech but they really try and upsell you on every little thing that they "think you'll need" almost to the pointy of getting grouchy about it... Just rubbed me the wrong way totally...

Web is sort of the same way but at the very least they are just plain good people to deal with...

Like i said in my previous post though... Delta is my personal favorite... awesome people to talk to, you could shoot the **** and pick their brains forever and the prices are by far the best in the business...I would swear by them...and haven't had a single problem with my Delta regrind with several thousand miles on the clock on an F22A1...

you're still running an H22 setup right KG? without ever having done anything more than boltons to your F22 before that correct? some info in your posts seems to be just the "internet buzz" on certain products and facts...

I don't mean to be rude about it at all but I just despise it when people regurgitate the same yearsold internet misinformation without firsthand knowledge...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZigenBallz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually... with the exceptions of exospeed, KMS & Rocket, all of these companies have been regrinding all sorts of cams for years... You just didn't look hard enough KG...

and having dealt with Crower personally, I'd say avoid them. Good company with some good tech but they really try and upsell you on every little thing that they "think you'll need" almost to the pointy of getting grouchy about it... Just rubbed me the wrong way totally...

Web is sort of the same way but at the very least they are just plain good people to deal with...

Like i said in my previous post though... Delta is my personal favorite... awesome people to talk to, you could shoot the **** and pick their brains forever and the prices are by far the best in the business...I would swear by them...and haven't had a single problem with my Delta regrind with several thousand miles on the clock on an F22A1...

you're still running an H22 setup right KG? without ever having done anything more than boltons to your F22 before that correct? some info in your posts seems to be just the "internet buzz" on certain products and facts...

I don't mean to be rude about it at all but I just despise it when people regurgitate the same yearsold internet misinformation without firsthand knowledge...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i honestly never considered an all motor F22 as a buildup 2 years ago when i was either doing a swap or get a prelude. another reason is that my auto tranny was on it's way so i needed to either rebuild that or do a tranny swap. the H22 swap lends it self well to those scenarios. my motor had 99.9K on when it was pulled with a new timing belt and waterpump and it ran well, but doing that much work on a high mileage motor just doesn't seem to be worth it.

imo, F22 turbo is much better than F22 N/A build so i would have done that before anyways.

besides bolt-ons i do have my VAFC dyno tuned. honestly, i wanted a streetable reliable car i can count on to last me. i drive this car 7 days a week. once you start going into engine building and turbo it becomes more of a project car which to me is something you don't drive daily.

 

since we no longer have a forum desinged for flaming, please excuse me for this.......knowtomorrow....i have a MAJOR beef with you......u continually ask ?s on how to make some street machine.....first of all.....and auto to manual swap is gonna cost u ALOT unless u can do it urself, which i doubt u can. secondly, u dont appear to have the slightest idea of what the hell u need to do to prep ur car for boosting.....if u want a car witha turbo, by an older supra....instead of blowing money on an accord before u know what the hell ur doing...sorry to be an ***, just had a bad day and am sick of these kinda posts......by the way, my pants ripped straight down the crack today at school, about 12 inchs long

 

i say just turbo it! :D
a turbo will make it faster, and tuning it will make it even faster, then building the engine will make it super faster. :D