ok i changed my front brakes last night and i noticed that the
piston in the caliper was different then the rear ones which are
the screw in type. so i used a c-clamp to compress the pistons so
i could fit the new pads in. well now it feels like the rotors warped or
something as if there is too much pressure on the piston. wtf
i didn't have to bleed the system on the rears, should i have done
this on the front. ps. i was harder than a **** to compress that piston in.
thnx 4 the advice my fellow luders.........did i toast my calipers?

 

Ok here's the deally, i'm thinking that the piston is
just fried in the cali, after all it took me 30min to compress that
piston back in far enough to fit the new pads in using a c-clamp.
so is there anyway to "lube" the piston so it compresses easier?

 

No, you can get the sliders to brake free if stuck but if the piston is jacked the caliper is jacked. The only way I know of fixing stuck pistons in calipers is to take them all apart and refit them with new seals, ect.... Its easyer to buy a remanned caliper.

 

which number in this pic is the slider

 

17
18

 

kuhl, i'll try to adjust them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i changed my front brakes last night and i noticed that the
piston in the caliper was different then the rear ones which are
the screw in type. so i used a c-clamp to compress the pistons so
i could fit the new pads in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after all it took me 30min to compress that
piston back in far enough to fit the new pads in using a c-clamp</TD></TR></TABLE>

You ruined the caliper and piston. You need to compress it and turn it at the same time. Did it cross your mind that something was wrong when it took so long to compress the piston ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You ruined the caliper and piston. You need to compress it and turn it at the same time. Did it cross your mind that something was wrong when it took so long to compress the piston ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the front ones are different than the back
i tried to turn them and that wasn't working

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the front ones are different than the back
i tried to turn them and that wasn't working </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok I thought you said you did the rear ones. So it took that long to compress both of them or just one ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok I thought you said you did the rear ones. So it took that long to compress both of them or just one ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

both of them were a lot harder to compress compared to the rear ones.
but i changed a rotor on the side that was harder to compress the piston
all of the way. it has 203k miles on it. probably time for some new cali's

 

I replaced my right front at 195K. She just started sticking out of the blue one day.
It sucked cause I drive the interstate too and from work(85-90mph) not good when you have a caliper that is stuck shut..Steering wheel wobbled, rotor got so hot I could not touch my lug nuts without burning myself.

Do you know what caliper is fuked? No point in changeing both, if one is alright

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you know what caliper is fuked? No point in changeing both, if one is alright
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<FONT COLOR="green">the right one for a fact, not sure about the left,
the rotor felt kinda hot too</FONT>

 

To make the front calipers easier to push in, take off the top of the brake fluid reservoir so they'll be a lot less pressure...I also always recommend bleeding the brakes any time I push in the caliper/change pads/etc...

 

yes, make sure you pull the cap on the top of the brake fluid reservoir. But I wouldn't bleed the brakes unless you disconnect a brake line somewhere.

I coulda swore the rears were the screw-in types like the front! Oh well...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, make sure you pull the cap on the top of the brake fluid reservoir. But I wouldn't bleed the brakes unless you disconnect a brake line somewhere.

I coulda swore the rears were the screw-in types like the front! Oh well...</TD></TR></TABLE>

on an si, the rear ones are screw in and the front ones are compress (push) in+
here's what the problem was, my brakes were so far worn down, that the pistons
in the calipers were rusted behind the seal because they were pushed out for
so long. that's why it was so damn hard to push the piston back it.
SO we used this stuff called yield, it's supposed to be some of the best
shizzle on the market, sprayed it around the piston, then used some pliers and
twisted the piston to break the rust free, .....slappped it back on, shazamm
caliper works like new again <FONT SIZE="+2"><FONT COLOR="green"> green</FONT></FONT>