I want to know, if i'm just street tuning with a voltmeter with the o2 sensor. I know i want it to be around .92, but do i want it to be around there through out the rpm range? what should it be around idle?, 1k?, 2k?, 3k?, boost=.92 right?

 

dont trust the stock o2 sensor, invest in a wideband

 

... or at least an EGT.

 

so egt is not quite as good as a wideband but you can get by with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont trust the stock o2 sensor, invest in a wideband </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, i know wideband + dyno tune is the best, but this is better than nothing, anyways this would be tempory and i'm just trying to find the answer to the question. Thanks

 

honestly man, the info that you will get from that will not be trustworthy. what engine management are you useing?


Rob

 

450 DSM injectors and SMC. I just want enough info to run rich enough to not blow my motor, and to let go off the gas when its getting lean. Its a daily driver, not a race car

 

I would NOT use the stock O2 as a tuning tool even temporarily. I was in the same situation as you thinking at LEAST I can tune it the way you mentioned as a temp measure until I get a wideband. Well, I done just that and was lucky that my motor didn't blow. I got my wideband setup now and still have my old voltmeter and stock O2 in place. To my horror when I compared the two running side by side, I realised that I was running hell lean when I tuned it with the O2/voltmeter! During idle, the wideband and voltmeter AFR readouts are very close and from that I assumed that it must be pretty accurate but once off idle in open loop, the stock setup was showing that I was running v.rich when in fact I was running near to the ideal afr in boost. It is VERY inaccurate once its off stoich.

So it shows that you are running a lot richer than you actually are. So if you use it to tune you would be running LEAN thinking that you are at the ideal AFR from the readout! Steer clear from using it as a tuning tool! You have been warned.

Make sense?

 

yea. thanks, which wideband setup did you go with?

 

FJO. Best/Affordable one out there. If you are using Hondata there is even a kit just for interfacing with the ECU and no display for like 250 + the sensor.

 

dont wanna start another thread, so the info from a eft guage is the same info from a wideband just not as accurate?
i only have a egt guage, if its running hot that means its lean obviously. with running hondata is an egt guage gonna do just fine?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea. thanks, which wideband setup did you go with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I got the Techedge setup now

tgh99si - EGT gauge reads the temp of the exhaust gases and not the air/fuel ratio! they are not the same. Running hot does not necessarily mean its lean. It can be either lean or rich. Ideally you would want both gauges to monitor as many conditions as possible.

 

Just doing a little searching and I found this. I bought the PLX m-300 a couple days ago for $320 shipped form streetrays.com. It's a plug-and-play unit so install is as simple as screwing it in and running a power wire. I am going to make a setup so I can plug the unit into my cig lighter. Also, I bought a converter for my AutoMeter Air/Fuel that turns it's readings into wideband, it was only $40. As you can tell I don't want the bright *** red PLX monitor in front of my face all the time. Oh, and I was wonder about what air/fuel mixture would be ideal for my H22 turbo. I am running .45 bar and on a stock bottom end with E-manage. I was thinking 13.0, but I have seen alot of H22 people on here running around 12.0. Damn that's pretty rich, but I guess you should rather be safe then sorry.