ok hears the info.
D16z6
CP pistons .02 over
Eagle rods,
Acl bearings
Arp headstuds
Cosmetic headgasket
Head bought from kazmakazsol, crower stage 2 cam, valves, springs, P&P.
Urber data, DSM 450cc injectors, possible inline fuel pump, and FMU if needed for higher psi levels.

do i need a block gaurd? and if so would a nu-formz block guard for D series for 55 bucks shipped be a good investment?

ive heard very good and very bad things about them. so give me your opinions.

plan to run 18psi on pumpgas, i know i won't hit 18psi daily more like 15, but id like to be able to run 18-20 at the track. also looking into propaine injection.

thanks

 

also the block has not been assembled yet. to to prevent distorsion of the cylinderwalls due to the block gaurd i was going to have the mashine shop install the block gaurd, and then bore and hone the cylinders. to try and prevent the famous block gaurd egg shape cylinders.

give me some input. i know i need a sleeved block but i have bills to pay so i don;t have the extra grand laying around.

 

If you are going to do it that way, you should be fine. Block gaurds are fine if welded in and bore/honed after.

 

i dont think you should think in terms of psi, think in terms of hp

what are your hp goals with this build?

 

well id like to see atleast 250 whp. i know i will most likly need a bigger turbo, t3/t4 bb, but i was hoping to run 12-18 psi on the street using my Garrett GT25 off a silvia which should net me atleast 200whp, but should get me atleast 250whp if it will handle 18psi.

i mean i can get 10psi on a stock block and it shoudl get me 200 whp depending on the turbo. so i spent money on rods, and pistons, and i missed a sleeved block and have no money to get one sleeved. so im looking for a cheap alternative/safty net.

 

anyone else?

 

help me out

 

i just purchased a block gaurd and wish i was in your postition. I received it once my block was already assembled. I went to put it in, and it doesnt fit right. So now i said **** it because i dont want to force anything. If i would have had it before the build, i would just have bored and honed to get rid of the distortion in the walls. Definelty go for it. Why not, most of the problems happen when the walls go egg shaped, and you will avoid that. go for it!!!

 

im just afriad of ruining my 2000 dollor rebuild because of a 55 dollor part.

anyone else's opinions??

i know people have feed back on this!!!

 

i had mine done the way you did.
and have had no problems .

platinum.

 

we made 220whp on 10psi w/o a block guard .. of course it's the afc hack with a lot of timing and dangerous but it's been running really good for a year now.

 

I put 2500 in a build on my d-series motor (8.5:1 compression) and no block guard and i made 205whp on 6psi on a t3 60 trim and now im running 10psi...ill be taking it to the dyno in the next few months figuring atleast 250whp.....no worries from me.....d series sleeves will hold up just fine aslong as your not detonating, that is what will kill yur motor not boost.......If its already apart and you want it put it in, but for 250whp i dont think it will really even matter.......

 

The majority of sidewall loading force is going to happen at 90 and 270 degrees, more so on the power stroke, with load predominatly on the... exhaust? side (cw, ccw, I dunno). So a blockguard at the top of the cylinder, isn't going to be too helpful. And a lot of people agree due to thermal expansion it can actualy cause cylinder cracking...

You should be fine for your HP goals without one.
-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t04ecvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are going to do it that way, you should be fine. Block gaurds are fine if welded in and bore/honed after. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Block guards do not need to be welded in.

 

ok so lets say in a year or over the summer i find that my GT25 isn;t giving me enough power. so i deside to run a bigger turbo but less psi. say 15psi at the track on a T3/T4 would 300 whp be obtainable? i know the stock sleeves can handle it but should i use a block gaurd?

from what ive read Dseries sleeves are as strong as B so i should be able to get 300-400 hp no problems. but would a block gaurd be needed? i just bought one for 55 shipped should i install it? help me deside. i just spent 1500 bucks in parts and i wanna be able to get atleast 250 whp at the track im also considering propain injection but if i don;t get around to that ill just run race gas at the track.

thanks for the input so far.

 

only 10 psi? i run 10psi on a stock block..... i went forged so i could run 15+

205 at 6psi is awsome. i may needs a bigger turbo. i gess ill find out real quick.

 

stock map is only good for like 11psi.....im running the afc and using ghettodyne to pull timing in boost.....when i get time im going to begin working with turbo edits new program and a 2 or 3 bar map with 550's at like 15 psi.....for my 300+ goal.....but until i finish my last semester of college i just dont have the time but im happy with the power im making with 10psi right now....

The blockguard question can only be answered by you...you have read everything and seem to kno the good and bad side to it so its pretty much your call... one thing i would look at is if you put 2 grand in a motor and the blockguard does cause problems then you will still be pissed about it....and you already kno that stock sleeves can handle the boost and wont fail easily...I preferably would go without the blockguard, its useless in my opinion....

 

so even for 300 whp a block gaurd would not be nessasary?

ill be running a 3 bar map and urber data. but their are no good tuners in ohio. basicly ill get to a dyno, run a base run off of a base chip i create. for 8psi. then ill adjust the maps to work out the kinks burn a new chip and run to 10psi. check current corrections and remake chip to work out any left over kinks and to adjust for more psi. then ill jump to 12, then 15, then 18 working out the kinks through out the RPM band and get the correct vtec crossover and ignition timming. this seems to be the safest method. but i was worried about 18psi on the dyno with the stock sleeves. so i thought a block gaurd would be a good added safty feature. lets say i up grade my turbo and run 15psi wich yeilds me almost 300 whp. should i run a block gaurd for that high of hp? remeber ill mostlikly be tuning using urberdata because their is no local tuners in ohio. i might pick up a wb o2 to street tune before i get o the dyno so 10psi already has its kinks worked out.

 

need some more opinions.

 

I made 300 whp on a D16A with ls rods, srp pistons, blockguard, stock cyl., also agree no welding needed. speedpro, t3 @ 29 psi.

 

u ran 29 PSI?? why not get a bigger turbo and run a lower psi??


im thinking ill run max of 15-18psi on my GARRETT GT25 and then if i want more power get a T3 or a T3/T4

 

I wanted to see what the setup would max out at. Not that I was broke or anything........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmcc72 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so even for 300 whp a block gaurd would not be nessasary?

ill be running a 3 bar map and urber data. but their are no good tuners in ohio. basicly ill get to a dyno, run a base run off of a base chip i create. for 8psi. then ill adjust the maps to work out the kinks burn a new chip and run to 10psi. check current corrections and remake chip to work out any left over kinks and to adjust for more psi. then ill jump to 12, then 15, then 18 working out the kinks through out the RPM band and get the correct vtec crossover and ignition timming. this seems to be the safest method. but i was worried about 18psi on the dyno with the stock sleeves. so i thought a block gaurd would be a good added safty feature. lets say i up grade my turbo and run 15psi wich yeilds me almost 300 whp. should i run a block gaurd for that high of hp? remeber ill mostlikly be tuning using urberdata because their is no local tuners in ohio. i might pick up a wb o2 to street tune before i get o the dyno so 10psi already has its kinks worked out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

dude, no ******* block guard. And also, when did uberdata get 3bar working?
-PHiZ

 

i have an older version of urberdata. back when it suported 3bar and no one could add features. i kept it because i need 3 bar. that and i don;t under stand the new way of adding things. i just use what i know will work and what im familure with.

well i bought that block gaurd and now i prolly won't use it. i gess ill take it to the shop that is going to assemble my block and see what they think.

if they can garentee in writing that they can install it with out it causeing any problems then theirs no reason not to get it done. ill see what the shop says.

 

i only use a block guard because i sleep a little better knowing i tried something to help bandage a detonation. we will see what happens when the boost numbers get up a bit higher. keep us posted on the numbers and how the tuning works out. if put in right it can't do much harm, but what do i no?