for some reason whenever i break from a high speed the ITR tends to shake.....and sometimes it will shake a lot

do i need new pads or is something else causing this?

 

Warped rotors, a lot of times this is caused by the e-brake on the rears.

 

ok that makes sense... because whenever the car is cold even though i have the e-brake down the brake light on the dash comes on

so any advice on what rotors to purchase?

 

Autozone rotors, like $25 and they do the trick. Might want to look into pads at the same time, contact Andie at http://www.cobaltfriction.com

 

If the rest of your car is stock, pick up some OEM rears on here or ebay. Fairly easy to change yourself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Warped rotors, a lot of times this is caused by the e-brake on the rears. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet it isn't warped rotors.

It is material transfer on the front rotors from the pads causing the shaking. It's been well documented on this site.

Re-bed your pads and the issue may (most likely) go away.

 

would new pads fix this problem? i was planning on getting some in the next week or so..

 

Re-bed your current pads before you put new pads on. Also improperly torqued lug nuts will cause warping of the rotors when heavy braking is applied.

 

alright thanks for the reply's guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dandc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would new pads fix this problem? i was planning on getting some in the next week or so..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you need new pads? almost out of pad?

It might fix the problem, but re-bedding them might fix it without the need for changing pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dandc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok that makes sense... because whenever the car is cold even though i have the e-brake down the brake light on the dash comes on

so any advice on what rotors to purchase?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Might want to check out the e-brakes while you are at it... are they being partially engaged even when it's down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I bet it isn't warped rotors.

It is material transfer on the front rotors from the pads causing the shaking. It's been well documented on this site.

Re-bed your pads and the issue may (most likely) go away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dandc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok that makes sense... because whenever the car is cold even though i have the e-brake down the brake light on the dash comes on

so any advice on what rotors to purchase?</TD></TR></TABLE>

brembo slotted rotors, hawk hps pads.

there high performance pads, and still last longer then oem pads....no brake shake at all..and i mean AT ALL. mke sure to upgrade your brake fuid for maximum performance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleenSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

brembo slotted rotors, hawk hps pads.

there high performance pads, and still last longer then oem pads....no brake shake at all..and i mean AT ALL. mke sure to upgrade your brake fuid for maximum performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice title ROFLOL What did you do to get that? Nevermind I don't want to know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2fanboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Might want to check out the e-brakes while you are at it... are they being partially engaged even when it's down?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it doesn't feel like it is engaged.... only thing is the the brake light in the gauge cluster is on.... but this usually only happens when it is really cold outside... so i figured it was due to the cold

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you need new pads? almost out of pad?

It might fix the problem, but re-bedding them might fix it without the need for changing pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i need to get new pads anyways... so you think that might fix it?

 

yea i have the same problem with the braking just buy new rotars and new brake pads at the same time and for the brake light being on do a brake fluid flush

 

What should the stock lug nuts be torqued to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dandc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok that makes sense... because whenever the car is cold even though i have the e-brake down the brake light on the dash comes on

so any advice on what rotors to purchase?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think this is a common problem, my ebrake light used to stay on all the time when the lever was down, and it was cold. for some reason it just stopped doing it for some reason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nice title ROFLOL What did you do to get that? Nevermind I don't want to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i defended a friend and the mod didnt like it i guess???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dandc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah i need to get new pads anyways... so you think that might fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

this will fix it but in time it will happen all over again, the stock rotors, and pads cant handle the kind of braking yer doing

 

"What should the stock lug nuts be torqued to?"

80-85 ft lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleenSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this will fix it but in time it will happen all over again, the stock rotors, and pads cant handle the kind of braking yer doing </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry you got the short end of the stick with the title but, I have to disagree with you on this comment.

There are several of a host of things that will produce the vibration but it's not the "limit" to which he's braking for sure, and especially on the street.

You only need new rotors if they are worn past the recommended spec in the Helm's manual. Otherwise check your pads and of course your E brake adjustment and most likely as I eluded to above, rebedding will cure the vibration under braking.

Warping rotor's can happen, it's not a myth that it can't happen, but the extreme racing conditions where it does occur are nowhere near what you'd experience even with abusive street use.

Torque your nutz,
Check your pad and rotor thickness, Replace when neccesary &
Adjust your ebrake,

And most likely, rebedding used or new pads is the cure.

Good luck

 

Make sure your calper slides are lubed and moving freely

 

the brake light is more likely due to not enough brake fluid. As the pads wear out, the piston of the caliber will push in on the pads, and plus cold weather &lt;collapse?&gt;, your brake fluid level might be at the minimal margin.