Alright. I'm new to nitrous, as well as being new to D-Series motors. First we will start with my setup.

93 DX(hatch)
D16Z6 swap
Gutted
AEM Cam gear
Exeddy Clutch

Getting my zex wet kit in the morning...65 shot.

My questions...and I'm wanting to be a lil on the safer side for now...military doesnt pay enough for a new motor.

1) Do I need a new fuel pump? *Wahlbro 255?*
2) Do I need colder plugs? *NGKs?*
3) Smart to get a A/F guage or VAFC?
4) Need to retard timing at all?
5) Need any other fuel upgrades? *injectors, fuel rail, fpr?*

Hmmm...that is all I could think of for now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I did search. Just trying to answer my exact question now. Thanks in advance.

 

Anyone? Also, do you think it would be possible to hit 12's with a pretty much stock Z6...no tuning w/out detonating and f---ing up valves?

 

Bump before I crash for the night.

 

sorry just saw its a wet kit

 

1) no stock is perfectly fine
2)Yes get 1 or 2 step colder NGK Vpower plugs
3)AF gauges are kinda pointless and you won't need a VAFC
4)Take 2 degrees of timing out to be safe.
5)If anything you might want to get a FPR to make minor adjustments but stock should be fine.


I have a NX wet kit in my gsr running a 75 shot. I don't know much about the zex kits but my friend has one and doesn't like it. Their 65 shots mean 65 flywheel hp not wheel hp. My NX kit on a 75 shot made 77whp. NX says their kits are made to run on stock timing, stock ignition, and stock fuel system. I would go with them if you want to be as safe a possible. If this is your daily driver I would spray a 50 shot and run 93 octane. I really don't think 12's is possible with a zex 65 shot maybe 13.90's if you drive really good.

 

Alright, thanks alot man. Well the car ran a 14.7 with a horribly god aweful clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbonitrousgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) no stock is perfectly fine
2)Yes get 1 or 2 step colder NGK Vpower plugs
3)AF gauges are kinda pointless and you won't need a VAFC
4)Take 2 degrees of timing out to be safe.
5)If anything you might want to get a FPR to make minor adjustments but stock should be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1)Would it help if I got a 255lph though?
2)Which would you say for the setup...probably 1 step colder?
3)Think it would be smart though so that I know I'm not running lean @ WOT
4)That can/will be done.
5)Any particular FPR...maybe an AEM fuel rail with the FPR on it?

Thanks again.

 

No help for the new guy to nitrous??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by One Term President &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1)Would it help if I got a 255lph though?
2)Which would you say for the setup...probably 1 step colder?
3)Think it would be smart though so that I know I'm not running lean @ WOT
4)That can/will be done.
5)Any particular FPR...maybe an AEM fuel rail with the FPR on it?
Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would get a 255lph hp they are cheap and you have room to upgrade later,

2 steps colder plugs,ngk bkr7e or 8 (i think 8 might be 2 steps colder, don't remember)

get the a/f gauge if you want, I don't have experience with them but I think they work okay at wot. (though it would probably be better if you read the voltage from the sensor instead since I think those gauges read rich at like 14.6 and richer, but I don't know - it has been discussed in the past)

pull 2 degrees of timing per 50 shot.

you do not need a rail save your money,

and any adjustable fpr will do - it will help fine tune the a/f ratio, though you do not seem to have a wide-band

I would get some motor mount inserts too they are cheap.


Modified by slashDEVslashNULL at 9:51 AM 1/9/2004

 

Hey, thanks alot /dev/null. Really appreciate the help. BTW, I like your sig man. hehe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by One Term President &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, thanks alot /dev/null. Really appreciate the help. BTW, I like your sig man. hehe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no prob, good luck, let us know how it goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slashDEVslashNULL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no prob, good luck, let us know how it goes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definately will. Guy will be here to deliver the kit in the next 15 minutes! w00t!

 

My friend who has the zex kit runs a 75 shot on his hatch. He uses NGK Vpower plugs he says the 9's are cold enough. He runs a B&M fpr and thats it for fuel he doesn't need a fuel pump. He's got an egt gauge and thats it. I wouldn't really waste money on an a/f gauge if its for safety. Because if it ever decides to lean out when your spraying in a race its too late for your engine. I would just get it dynoed and check your a/f thats the best way. Then you can see what power the kit makes and make adjustments as you go. Oh yeah you'll propbably get a better time then 13.90 I didn,t see that you had a gutted hatch. Good luck and if you get in dyno'd post up the graph.

 

Indeed. I'll let you guys know how everything turns out. Bottle is drying right now...painting it an enamel blue. Can't stand that zex purple. The kit is going in tomorrow. Once again, thank you guys for your help. I'll be sure to post up ETs/chart if I get anytime soon.

 

9's are pretty steep for a 65 shot, 7's should be sufficient. I ran 10psi and sprayed 100 shot dry (tuned) with 7's and didn't have any problems.

 

Not to question your knowledge, but wouldn't 7 be too cold? I dunno, I'm the n00b.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbonitrousgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) no stock is perfectly fine
2)Yes get 1 or 2 step colder NGK Vpower plugs
3)AF gauges are kinda pointless and you won't need a VAFC
4)Take 2 degrees of timing out to be safe.
5)If anything you might want to get a FPR to make minor adjustments but stock should be fine.


I have a NX wet kit in my gsr running a 75 shot. I don't know much about the zex kits but my friend has one and doesn't like it. Their 65 shots mean 65 flywheel hp not wheel hp. My NX kit on a 75 shot made 77whp. NX says their kits are made to run on stock timing, stock ignition, and stock fuel system. I would go with them if you want to be as safe a possible. If this is your daily driver I would spray a 50 shot and run 93 octane. I really don't think 12's is possible with a zex 65 shot maybe 13.90's if you drive really good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the AF gauge might help once in a while and the pump might help also in the long run

but other then that i would say the same there

it is better to be safe then sorry

 

a fuel pump is always a good idea on a nitrous car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by One Term President &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to question your knowledge, but wouldn't 7 be too cold? I dunno, I'm the n00b. </TD></TR></TABLE>

9's are colder then 7's.
the higher the number the colder the plug.
5-6's are stock (depending on driving) and 7's are one step colder.

 

Oh.

Haha, thanks for clearing that up man. -&gt; Me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbonitrousgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a NX wet kit in my gsr running a 75 shot. I don't know much about the zex kits but my friend has one and doesn't like it. Their 65 shots mean 65 flywheel hp not wheel hp. My NX kit on a 75 shot made 77whp. NX says their kits are made to run on stock timing, stock ignition, and stock fuel system. I would go with them if you want to be as safe a possible. If this is your daily driver I would spray a 50 shot and run 93 octane. I really don't think 12's is possible with a zex 65 shot maybe 13.90's if you drive really good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you ever read NX instructions? Doesn't sound like it. They warn you that you need a fuel system that can handle the extra fuel requirement and they also say to pull timing. Check out their site, they have a lot of pdf documents explaining things.

As for zex meaning flywheel hp, could you explain it to me? I might be wrong but, it seems to me that an increase in x amount of horsepower would give you ( hp at flywheel) +x AND (hp at wheels) +x

which means a car with 160 at the crank and 136 at the wheels gets 210 at the crank and 186 at the wheels, with a 50 shot.