strut bar
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,384
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From: Orange County, CA
Re: strut bar (vapor)
Yep just bling bling. That's why I bought yours lol.
If you look in the front of the S2000, there is a large cross-member in front below where the stock intake would be. The cross member is huge. I suspect this is more than enough for the front.
If you look in the front of the S2000, there is a large cross-member in front below where the stock intake would be. The cross member is huge. I suspect this is more than enough for the front.
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 806
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From: TX
Re: strut bar (Razor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Razor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hear the cusco bars really do make a difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi,
you heard wrong.
seriously, the STB doesn't do much at all. an x-brace will make a difference and an STB ALONG WITH an X-brace will tighten things up a little more. but seriously, this isn't a strut suspension and how the frame is made will not allow an STB to reduce the flexing of the upper mounts. that is essentially what any STB (strut or shock) does.
it is more bling bling than anything else. and if you aren't even out at the track, you'll never see a difference in the x-brace (other than 'oooh, I can feel it') and an STB, which basically, you just will never feel any kind of difference whatsoever.
hi,
you heard wrong.
seriously, the STB doesn't do much at all. an x-brace will make a difference and an STB ALONG WITH an X-brace will tighten things up a little more. but seriously, this isn't a strut suspension and how the frame is made will not allow an STB to reduce the flexing of the upper mounts. that is essentially what any STB (strut or shock) does.
it is more bling bling than anything else. and if you aren't even out at the track, you'll never see a difference in the x-brace (other than 'oooh, I can feel it') and an STB, which basically, you just will never feel any kind of difference whatsoever.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 806
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From: TX
Re: strut bar (Bs2kB6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bs2kB6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what should be done for handling other then lets say Tein RS's or something of the sort? and tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
honestly.. nothing. Tein RS's are fine. They are double adjustable and can be quite flexible on the track. If you are serious though, you better start looking into some custom valved triple adjustables to give you the high speed compression adjustments. Also, with an external reservior (not sure how adjustable it is on the Tein's), you are looking at +1 way shock. I say +1, because it depends if you have a double or a triple, just add one to that. Essentially, you can adjust the amount of nitrogen in the shock, which controls how fast the shock will compress or rebound; just how fast the gas will flow.
There's not much to tighten up on this chassis. Each chassis is going to have some 'give' and some 'flex', because it is designed that way, and not designed with the motor attatched directly to the suspension (i.e. - forumla cars, F50/Enzo, etc.). If you want to start stiffening up the chassis, make sure you know why you are doing it: to go faster around a road course. Anything else will be pointless and more bling for the car shows.
This isn't to say this suspension piece does this, and this is tighter than that, but yea, you will feel a difference, be it a negliglable one. But 'feeling' a difference because you installed a suspension piece doesn't mean that it helps you drive better, nor does it mean that your car will handle better. In an ideal situation, you want a race car to be a part of you. There will be no guessing as to what you are experiencing. Zero deflection anywhere with solid bushings, and you, the driver, are one with the car. While semi-obtainable with a street car, it's not ideal for the street. But if you want to get there, start replacing your bushings with harder ones (only one that I know of is Mugen and they are expensive, and only hard rubber = less squeaking than the poly bushings). You'll get more wear & tear on the car.
Okay a bit more of rambling than I intended on, but I hope this helps. Spend the money on the track. An STB can cost between 100 and 350, and it is typically only 250 for a day or two at the track, which equals out to be many hours of track time.
honestly.. nothing. Tein RS's are fine. They are double adjustable and can be quite flexible on the track. If you are serious though, you better start looking into some custom valved triple adjustables to give you the high speed compression adjustments. Also, with an external reservior (not sure how adjustable it is on the Tein's), you are looking at +1 way shock. I say +1, because it depends if you have a double or a triple, just add one to that. Essentially, you can adjust the amount of nitrogen in the shock, which controls how fast the shock will compress or rebound; just how fast the gas will flow.
There's not much to tighten up on this chassis. Each chassis is going to have some 'give' and some 'flex', because it is designed that way, and not designed with the motor attatched directly to the suspension (i.e. - forumla cars, F50/Enzo, etc.). If you want to start stiffening up the chassis, make sure you know why you are doing it: to go faster around a road course. Anything else will be pointless and more bling for the car shows.
This isn't to say this suspension piece does this, and this is tighter than that, but yea, you will feel a difference, be it a negliglable one. But 'feeling' a difference because you installed a suspension piece doesn't mean that it helps you drive better, nor does it mean that your car will handle better. In an ideal situation, you want a race car to be a part of you. There will be no guessing as to what you are experiencing. Zero deflection anywhere with solid bushings, and you, the driver, are one with the car. While semi-obtainable with a street car, it's not ideal for the street. But if you want to get there, start replacing your bushings with harder ones (only one that I know of is Mugen and they are expensive, and only hard rubber = less squeaking than the poly bushings). You'll get more wear & tear on the car.
Okay a bit more of rambling than I intended on, but I hope this helps. Spend the money on the track. An STB can cost between 100 and 350, and it is typically only 250 for a day or two at the track, which equals out to be many hours of track time.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Laguna
Re: strut bar (Mr. Bagel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Bagel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
honestly.. nothing. Tein RS's are fine. They are double adjustable and can be quite flexible on the track. If you are serious though, you better start looking into some custom valved triple adjustables to give you the high speed compression adjustments. Also, with an external reservior (not sure how adjustable it is on the Tein's), you are looking at +1 way shock. I say +1, because it depends if you have a double or a triple, just add one to that. Essentially, you can adjust the amount of nitrogen in the shock, which controls how fast the shock will compress or rebound; just how fast the gas will flow.
There's not much to tighten up on this chassis. Each chassis is going to have some 'give' and some 'flex', because it is designed that way, and not designed with the motor attatched directly to the suspension (i.e. - forumla cars, F50/Enzo, etc.). If you want to start stiffening up the chassis, make sure you know why you are doing it: to go faster around a road course. Anything else will be pointless and more bling for the car shows.
This isn't to say this suspension piece does this, and this is tighter than that, but yea, you will feel a difference, be it a negliglable one. But 'feeling' a difference because you installed a suspension piece doesn't mean that it helps you drive better, nor does it mean that your car will handle better. In an ideal situation, you want a race car to be a part of you. There will be no guessing as to what you are experiencing. Zero deflection anywhere with solid bushings, and you, the driver, are one with the car. While semi-obtainable with a street car, it's not ideal for the street. But if you want to get there, start replacing your bushings with harder ones (only one that I know of is Mugen and they are expensive, and only hard rubber = less squeaking than the poly bushings). You'll get more wear & tear on the car.
Okay a bit more of rambling than I intended on, but I hope this helps. Spend the money on the track. An STB can cost between 100 and 350, and it is typically only 250 for a day or two at the track, which equals out to be many hours of track time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
great response but I have to futher say that seat time will be your most valuable investment on this car.
honestly.. nothing. Tein RS's are fine. They are double adjustable and can be quite flexible on the track. If you are serious though, you better start looking into some custom valved triple adjustables to give you the high speed compression adjustments. Also, with an external reservior (not sure how adjustable it is on the Tein's), you are looking at +1 way shock. I say +1, because it depends if you have a double or a triple, just add one to that. Essentially, you can adjust the amount of nitrogen in the shock, which controls how fast the shock will compress or rebound; just how fast the gas will flow.
There's not much to tighten up on this chassis. Each chassis is going to have some 'give' and some 'flex', because it is designed that way, and not designed with the motor attatched directly to the suspension (i.e. - forumla cars, F50/Enzo, etc.). If you want to start stiffening up the chassis, make sure you know why you are doing it: to go faster around a road course. Anything else will be pointless and more bling for the car shows.
This isn't to say this suspension piece does this, and this is tighter than that, but yea, you will feel a difference, be it a negliglable one. But 'feeling' a difference because you installed a suspension piece doesn't mean that it helps you drive better, nor does it mean that your car will handle better. In an ideal situation, you want a race car to be a part of you. There will be no guessing as to what you are experiencing. Zero deflection anywhere with solid bushings, and you, the driver, are one with the car. While semi-obtainable with a street car, it's not ideal for the street. But if you want to get there, start replacing your bushings with harder ones (only one that I know of is Mugen and they are expensive, and only hard rubber = less squeaking than the poly bushings). You'll get more wear & tear on the car.
Okay a bit more of rambling than I intended on, but I hope this helps. Spend the money on the track. An STB can cost between 100 and 350, and it is typically only 250 for a day or two at the track, which equals out to be many hours of track time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
great response but I have to futher say that seat time will be your most valuable investment on this car.
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