How do I replace the turbine seal? **PICS**
well, my return line got a kink in it, and boom... turbo go bye bye... I've got it separated as you can see in these pics...


Now, there was no oil on the compressor side, only on the turbine side. there is no shaft play at all... My question is this... How do I pull this assembly apart? Is the shaft key'd? do I have to put the wheel on the exact way as I took it apart? I assme the seal is underneath the cup behind the turbine wheel, correct?
TIA


Now, there was no oil on the compressor side, only on the turbine side. there is no shaft play at all... My question is this... How do I pull this assembly apart? Is the shaft key'd? do I have to put the wheel on the exact way as I took it apart? I assme the seal is underneath the cup behind the turbine wheel, correct?
TIA
Screw you guys, I'm... going... home.

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You might want to tell him to be sure to mark both the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel/shaft so they go back together exactly the same way, i.e. balanced. That is if it isn't already too late! Not doing this can quickly destroy a turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tjbizzo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to tell him to be sure to mark both the compressor wheel and the turbine wheel/shaft so they go back together exactly the same way, i.e. balanced. That is if it isn't already too late! Not doing this can quickly destroy a turbo. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that is EXACTLY what I was wondering... was about balancing and such... Now, can I scribe them or would that throw off balancing? I want to put the turbine wheel into my parts tank and clean it thoroughly, but if I can't scribe it, i'm not sure how i can mark it all the way...
I see after a little bit of reading that I should mark the WHEELS so that they go on equally... How EXACT does it have to be? will 2-3 degrees off when I realign them be okay? I'm thinkin maybe using white out or a wax pencil will work... right?
that is EXACTLY what I was wondering... was about balancing and such... Now, can I scribe them or would that throw off balancing? I want to put the turbine wheel into my parts tank and clean it thoroughly, but if I can't scribe it, i'm not sure how i can mark it all the way...
I see after a little bit of reading that I should mark the WHEELS so that they go on equally... How EXACT does it have to be? will 2-3 degrees off when I realign them be okay? I'm thinkin maybe using white out or a wax pencil will work... right?
Yes, the compressor wheel nut. Thats what they use to balance it, they grind it. Unless you dont ahve to take it off. I dont know I have never had one apart. But I think that it would be best to replace everything.
Rob
Rob
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You mean the turbine wheel nut? The compressor nut is just a roundish, almost brass looking nut that appears to be 12 sided, and looks as though it would come off with ease...
the turbine wheel nut is actually part of the turbine wheel.... The shaft is connected to the turbine wheel also... the compressor wheel nut needs to come off to remove the compressor wheel, and then be able to separate the center section and all that good stuff...
I'm stuck on 3rd shift with nothing to do and alot of tools at my disposal... I'm gonna take it all apart in a few... I'll remember to mark the wheels so that they line up evenly.
I'm stuck on 3rd shift with nothing to do and alot of tools at my disposal... I'm gonna take it all apart in a few... I'll remember to mark the wheels so that they line up evenly.
Can someone please explain to me how exactly if your oil return backs up and your loosing oil out the turbine seal, once you fix the oil return problem, your seal is fucked. This is a (usualy) steel piston ring type seal, how oil ***** it up??
Does anybody fix the return problem and drive around and burn all the excess oil off?? I just don't see how oil is going to wreck a steel ring.
Does anybody fix the return problem and drive around and burn all the excess oil off?? I just don't see how oil is going to wreck a steel ring.
send it out to get rebalanced. A place like Forced Performance will do it for $34 plus shipping I believe. Even if you do scribe marks, it doesn't necessarily mean it's been in balance this whole time.
well, got it all apart and cleaned up... took about an hour of scrubbing in the parts tank... I marked it with magic marker and it seems to be holding.
I also got a complete rebuild kit from a buddy who runs relentlessracing.com (shameless plug)... So I'm gonna go pick that up this weekend and try to rebuild the turbo sometime in the near future... I'm also going to paint the compressor & turbine housings, and maybe even the center section.
Anybody have a good exploded diagram of a turbo so I can get a better look? or a How to on rebuilding a turbo?
I also got a complete rebuild kit from a buddy who runs relentlessracing.com (shameless plug)... So I'm gonna go pick that up this weekend and try to rebuild the turbo sometime in the near future... I'm also going to paint the compressor & turbine housings, and maybe even the center section.
Anybody have a good exploded diagram of a turbo so I can get a better look? or a How to on rebuilding a turbo?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can someone please explain to me how exactly if your oil return backs up and your loosing oil out the turbine seal, once you fix the oil return problem, your seal is fucked. </TD></TR></TABLE>
its not the oil itself. but the pressure build up from the backing up, enough to blow out the seal and leak oil into the turbo compartments.
its not the oil itself. but the pressure build up from the backing up, enough to blow out the seal and leak oil into the turbo compartments.
I highly advise getting the turbo balanced. Why is it critical for turbos to be balanced? Imagine driving along with a brick attached to your wheel rim. The vibration at 70 mph would blur the mirrors and shake every nut and bolt loose. Imagine this effect in a turbocharger. But instead of 70mph, the speeds of the turbine blade tips are now traveling around 850 mph. The imbalance weight may be tiny, but the effect on the turbo components is just as severe. Rotating assemblies that spin anywhere from 20,000-150,000 rev/min must be balanced.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00b18b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kinda late now to tell you this but next time instead of using a marker use a razor blade to scribe a mark</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what I was originally wondering... its okay... the compressor wheel was clean & i marked it with a marker... The marking on the turbine happened to be right on a line on the nut... so i can line it up with that... Thanks though...
And will a machine shop be able to balance the turbo? Hmm... gotta ask my boss in a few hours when i see him...
thats what I was originally wondering... its okay... the compressor wheel was clean & i marked it with a marker... The marking on the turbine happened to be right on a line on the nut... so i can line it up with that... Thanks though...
And will a machine shop be able to balance the turbo? Hmm... gotta ask my boss in a few hours when i see him...
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