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iTrader: (2)

whats up guys like the title States I'm trying to remove the compressor side turbine from the turbo shaft I remove thethe 10 millimeter Reverse nut and both housings... I read to wiggle it back and forth and pull up in a should come out but unfortunately mine has not I found some more info showing to tap the top of the turbine shaft for the 10 millimeter nut goes with the a rubber hammer and still no luck I'm open to any suggestions thank you very much

tepid1

What turbo?

Sure the compressor wheel isn't threaded?

Orangevirus1

did you remove the compressor housing?

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iTrader: (2)

Yes both housing are removed its a turbonetics t3to4b

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iTrader: (2)

I can not see any threads on the wheel

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The wheel should slide right off but it sounds like you have an older unit and the wheel could have corrosion between the hub and shaft. Try lightly heating the wheel with a propane torch, since aluminum expands faster than the shaft it should slide right off and help to break up some of the corrosion holding the wheel. The turbine shaft should also just literally pop right out after that

Orangevirus1

spray it in carb cleaner, it will cool it off and shrink it while cleaning it.

IMO I wouldn't torch the wheel, potentially warping the fins.

HOld the Shaft housing, and lightely tap on the shaft with something non metallic, it should break free.

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iTrader: (2)

will do I put a little bit of heat on in the beginning trying to get it off but was too scared not knowing if I can possibly damage anything .. I'll try to put some more heat on it and see what happens

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

How do you think turbonetics assembles them? They gently heat the wheel for a few seconds to fit it on the shaft. I've witnessed this. No amount of heat will warp the wheels. If 100, 000+rpm and elevated temperatures doesn't bother the wheel nothing will.

tepid1

With 400 to 500deg F compressor outlet temps.... I think a little heat on the hub will be fine. Just trying to expand the wheel, not redesign it.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^thank you sir

Especially considering that the hub absorbs and dissipates most of the heat

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iTrader: (2)

update: well I put some heat on it so much it made its sweat but sure enough it popped off I really appreciate all the help guys.. on another note I just found out when taking it apart that is ball bearing which came to my surprise because when I look up the number it said it was journal bearing getting ready to ship everything off to the boost lab for balance .. thanks again

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Whatever you do, do not remove the turbine shaft. . You'll have all sorts of problems.

And now it makes sense, most ball bearing turbos have interference fits to the compressor wheel, hence why the wheel has to be heated for installation and removal.

Why take the wheel off? If you knew it needed a rebuild you should've just mailed it to them untouched without the turbine housing

tepid1

It may be too late....

TheBoostLab likes just the guts when you send them the hardware for a balance. Typically its the comp, bearing assembly, and turbine wheel/shaft that get balance all by itself. I'm sure you know this though....

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yes but I know some companies prefer the cartridge untouched by the customer, as someone with no knowledge of the subject could damage the turbo further.
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I know for a fact that 99% of rebuild companies don't want the housings, although I've heard of a few wanting the compressor housing

To the op what does the shaft look like where the compressor wheel sits? Any corrosion/pitting/scoring? I would ask boost lab to micro polish the shaft as well.

Does the compressor wheel shaft bore show any of what I stated above? If so you can cut a small pieces of green scotch brite pad and push it through either end multiple times, although I've found that gun cleaning kits are perfect, a 22 caliber brush should clean the shaft bore perfectly.

Also do any of the wheels show damage/contact marks on the compressor housing where the wheel was located? Is shaft play normal? I.e. does the shaft move up and down (vertical) indicating thrust bearing failure or does it have excessive side to side play? Or did it simply start blowing out past the seals?
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I know with Garretts BB units that they cant be repaired and youd need a new center section, however I'm not familiar with turbonetics bearing system

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iTrader: (2)

well the turbo needed to be rebuilt so thinking that it was a journal bearing turbo I didn't see any harm in rebuilding it myself.. it wasn't until I took it apart that I realized it was ball bearing turbo had smoking issues and ended up having some play in it.. when I purchased the turbo the guy told me it was a journal bearing also look at the numbers and call Turbonetics and they told me it was Journal bearing so that's what I was thinking it was

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iTrader: (2)

the shaft showed a tad bit of corrosion and no the turbine seem to be fine with no contact with the housings ,yeah the shaft moved up and down the bearing was done.. I hope the balancing with the shaft goes fine everything goes back to the together good I can always update this with the end result also thanks for the tips on cleaning the shaft