Anybody know what kind of 60' times I can expect with radius bars and drag radials (205/50-15's)? Thanks in advance...

 

I saw no difference in 60'.

 

I just put mine on last night so haven't gone to the track yet. Around town though the car feels great it feels very planted. It also seems to react quicker when shifting.

 

I just wanted to take the time to tell Cheesfrog how much I hate him for having a yellow 3rd gen Rx-7

 

hard to say...i don't have numbers for you with street tires. when i used my crappy toyo proxy fz4's one time on the street with the z10 it planted and took off. they were horrible tires yet the planted for the first time ever for me.

On the drag strip i'm netting 1.72's with an open diff civic SI tranny using the Z10. Sorry..i don't have any info on the Competition engineering one..haven't used it

 

Ran my car at the drag strip on the 15th before Z10 kit was installed. 205/40-17 yok paradas, 2.1 degrees neg camber (not a drag set-up) the car was pulling 2.1-2.2 60ft times consitently. However there was alot of wheel hop in the 1-2 shift. the car would slam acouple of times before it grabbed. 1st was even worse at times.

Went back to the Drag strip on the 22, (one week later) with the Z10 kit installed. everything else the same. Wheel hop totally gone, the car was so much easier to launch. However the 60 ft times where still the same 2.1-2.2 as well as the et's? My thought is the car is now able to put the power to the ground much easier but the tires are definetly the limiting factor.

I still really like the Z10 kit, and on the street the car graps the pavement and goes. When coming out of a turnaround the tires don't even turn over they just hook up and pull me through. I can best relate it to driving an all wheel drive car as far as the response when accelerating away from or through a turn. I will again have more feedback after the weekend of oct 6-7 when the car is run on Grattan Raceway.

FYI the car runs 13.9 as it sits in full street trim. It has run 13.6 on slicks but I have change some things since then. I keep telling my self I'm not a Drag racer and I built the car for the roadcourse yet I keep finding myself at the strip

Mattj

 

Where did you guy's get this kit and how much does it run? Right now on drag radials I am cutting 1.9 60's but I am still spinning out of the whole.

 

you can buy the kit from z10engineering,
you can call 732-922-2309 and ask for someone named justin, he will help you out, oh wait thats me ooops

 

FYI, there is a group buy from z10 on the radius arms. The price I was quoted was $330+SH for the DC2 kit, which is around $60 off the normal price. Give them a call...

 

I am thinking about getting this Z10 kit if it completelty eliminates wheel hop. Ive read the reports of this kit.. But I dont see how it could not bind the suspension and hurt handeling.

Drop speed. If your tires are now planted and you dont get any wheel hop, then you should be able to launch harder now, where as you were probably bogging before. What do you launch at.. Try launching at 6k.

 

pics??

 

2nd gens came stock with radius arms from the factory, but I don't recall hearing any stories of binding problems. Granted, the arc of the radius arm is slightly different from the arc of the LCA, but the deflection caused by the difference in arcs is still within the capacity of flex of the stock rubber bushings. Now if you had Prothane or ES bushings in there, that might be another story.

 

http://www.z10eng.com ya cack!!!!!

 

[QUOTEDrop speed. If your tires are now planted and you dont get any wheel hop, then you should be able to launch harder now, where as you were probably bogging before. What do you launch at.. Try launching at 6k.

[/QUOTE]

The wheels feel planted at a lower speed. This is not the case at higher RPMs My ITR is far from stock and with out slicks the tires are just spinning. Launching at 6 grand would do nothing but turn into more wheelspin. I just read your post regarding wheel hop. I assume you are fairly new to dragracing by your post. I would recomend you to launch much lower than the 6 grand your trying to advise me to do .

Mattj


[Modified by Dropspeed, 12:53 PM 9/27/2001]

 

i have one question that is completely off the topic,
what does ya cack!!! mean cause i have been trying to figure it out for the past 10 min, somone please infrom me

thanks

 

cack is vietnamese for "****" or "*****" but in viet its spelled "cac" i only know this cause my g/f is viet

 

I copied most of this from one of my previous posts

The reason our kit does not bind is becuase our suspension arms actually follow the factory suspension arc.
The trajectory that the factory arms follow is an arc. The radius arm follows an almost identical arc as the stock suspension. (that is why our radius rods are at such an extreme angle as opposed to the CE arms which are almost straight) The only way to make that arc completely equal is to go through the oil pan, which would necessitate running a dry sump. I think that anyone who is willing to run a dry sump would do it for a lower CG and would lower the engine anyway, once again negating the ability to run a true radius arm setup. Our system is off the tru arc by 0.4 degrees. In all fairness, that is nothing. Also if you are familiar with suspension geometries, follow the axes of the LCA (rear and main) to the axis of the radius rod ont he crossmember... youll see that they intersect.

If you want to test my claims, take the suspension and move it up and down, you will feel no binding. Put on a radius arm. Now move the suspension up and down. Feel any different? Nope.

Our kit is not merely a bandaid, it is a complete solution. Most enthusiasts are not able to a) make solid bushings (none are available for purchase) b) install solid bushings c) remove stock bushings d) willing to spend the time to do any of this stuff e) able to adjust caster... the list goes on and on. Also they are using extremely high spring rates. The radius rod moves a full 6" without any hint of binding/bushing deformation. Any spring that can compress that much is entirely too soft to be on a fwd race vehicle.

Our kit works for both autocross and drag applications. It does not bind, that is moroso (CE) territory. The kit has been proven on a number of vehicles (we have about 300 out there) and many road racers have had nothign but good comments to say.

Caster adjustment is very important too as a common sigh is left side ~ 2.5 degrees, right side ~1.2 degrees.

I hope this clears thigns up.

-geoff

 

well i dont know the before numbers but i get 2.0-2.2 sixties with my advans ao32r's
HTH