here are the symptoms;

1. no codes
2. rpms read apx 200 high, but catch every once in a while to show real rpms
3. very slight irratic idle
4. idles at 1500 rpms (if that is right taking into consideration problem #2)
5. car dies as soon as it starts 1 out of 3 times

things that i have done;
1. replaced distributr with a used one
2. cleaned IAC (back of intake manifold)
3. cleaned fast idle (under throttle body)


plan of action.

1. buy a external tach to hook up and compare readings. if readings are the same replace ignitor. if readings are different chalk the rpm problem to a bad tach or bad wire.

2. i have removed the resonator before the air filter and there happens to be a large hole in the filter box that used to connect to the resonator, i was thinking that maybe the cold weather here apx 20 F, throws off the ECU because it is sucking in such cold air. maybe jerry rig a filter over the whole.

3. how can i check my IAC and my fast idle?

 

any body have a thought?

 

i was told to hook up 12 volts to the iacv and see if it clicks freely.

 

do you mean constantly click back and forth? or just once for each time power is supplied

 

well i hooked up an external tach in my car and ran the (–) coil wire for the tach off of the blue wire from the 2 wire plug off the dist. (it had the same signal) the external tach read the correct rpms.

does this determine my ignitor is good?

if my car dies as soon as it starts what could it be? does the IAC or fast idle sound like a choice?

 

mines clicked everytime i sent a positive pulse, and the bad iacv in my car was responsible for the idle surging. it didn't shut the car off. as for the igniter, i'll look it up in the helms and let you know if i find out how to test it.

 

heres how you check to see if the igniters bad. you need a multimeter set to voltage. go to your ecu and A26 would be the negative, and probe the positive side to A21 and then A22. there should be 10 volts, if not, assuming theres no short from the ecu to igniter, then the igniter is bad and needs to be replaced.


Modified by lazyassbrian at 11:51 PM 1/6/2004

 

so just unplug the ecu and measure te voltage between the two pins? does the ignition need to be on or anything.

oh and on your numbers are they set up like a or b

A
1234
5678

B
1357
2468

 

also the pins you gave are they for a p28 ecu or pm6 ecu?

 

the pins are for obd1 ecus. if you need it for obd0, let me know, i got a manual for them also. and the pins are read 1357 for top row, and 2468 for bottom row. and this is when you are looking at the plug from the wire side. you do not unplug the ecu, keep it plugged, turn the ignition switch on and measure the voltages at the pins. you also should check the yellow/black wire at the 2 plug wire next to the distrbutor to see if you have battery voltage when you have the ignition switch in the on position.

 

also, you should make a post in the eg civic section cause theres more z6 motor owners there. they'll probably have something to contribute.