can someone please post a pic of the locations for the hyperground. me and some of my buddies are planning on making our own hyperground system and need to know the mounting lacations. the systems we are making are going to go on 2 std and a rex. thanks in advance for your help.

 

ah if it ain`t the civmo , whats up bro . hadn`t seen you in a while .

 

not much me brad and little kyle are trying to make a hyperground system

 

There are only 2 stock grounds you can replace and those are Valve Cover > Chassis, and Neg Bat Terminal > Chassis > Tranny.

You can add extra grounds if you want also.

 

thanks

 

And what exactly does adding sooooo many grounds do for your car. I agree with beefing up what grounds already exist, but I mean how many do you really need?

 

increased throttle response and a couple or other things a friend of mine has the hyper ground system on his car and he loves it. he said it makes starting easyer and that it never ran better

 

Definitely works, enough that I have designed my own kit that I am selling.
You might wanna try adding a ground to your thermostat housing. This is the main ground for the ECU and sensors. Also to your alternator housing.
Where you connect to the body of the car, sand the paint off and use some dielectric grease. This will give you a good connection.
Hope that helps, even if this is a really old thread...
Oh, if you wanna see pics of the kit I'm offering...Click here

 

id like to see from those of you who did replace/upgrade/add your ground wires where you routed em. looking for tips for a clean install. also, what type of wires do you suggest? i dont think any heavy guage is necessary as long as theres good contact, but id like wires with good insulation.

so far the list of locations are:

stock tranny point
stock chassis point (inline with tranny and battery)
valve cover and head to chassis
thermostat to chassis
alternator body

any other worthwhile places? distributor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azroth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And what exactly does adding sooooo many grounds do for your car. I agree with beefing up what grounds already exist, but I mean how many do you really need?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The advantage of adding extra gounds is that the various sensors and other components are better grounded. Consider, for instance, the ground at the thermostat housing. This grounds the ECU and quite a few of the sensors. The problem here is that although the aluminum parts (like the thermostat cover to which it is connected, the thermostat housing, engine block, and transmission) conduct electricity quite well, the connections between them don't always. Voltage drops of varying degrees exist where the cover meets the housing, the housing meets the block, the block meets the transmission, etc. Corrosion with age makes this worse. But this can be corrected by simply connecting the thermostat housing ground directly to, say, the ground point on the transmission or the negative battery terminal itself.

 

since its so cheap its a good thing to do plus makes things look cool if you do it right... looks really crowded if your still running ur underhood fuse box tho, mines in the glove box area so that doesnt matter...

Tory

 

Actually, it is the gaskets that cause a problem. Also, the seams in the frame of the car cause a problem as well. Steel doesn't conduct as well as aluminum. Then you get the sealant and paint. So yeah, bring everything back to a common point...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...46098
I used the search "ground wire". this one is over in 1 hr
Check the pics & you'll see how its setup.

 

sux for me since my battery is located in the back of the car....i cant locate a direct ground to the neg. battery terminal. I guess I can always use lower gauge wire for the existing ground connections and just provide a beefier connection...It would be a bitch to run each and every wire to the battery!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOEY F. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sux for me since my battery is located in the back of the car....i cant locate a direct ground to the neg. battery terminal. I guess I can always use lower gauge wire for the existing ground connections and just provide a beefier connection...It would be a bitch to run each and every wire to the battery! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just run big fat wires to the chassis and a big fatty off the battery.

 

I've done a couple of installs into BMW Z3 roadsters. They had the battery in the trunk as well. I did what skelly suggested. Connect the negative to the frame using a 4 gauge cable.
Then in the engine bay, run 8 guage to the different points in the engine. Just bring the 8 guage back to a common point in the engine bay. No need to run them back to the trunk.

 

anyone have an actual pic of a CRX Engine bay w/ a grounding kit?

i do better with visuals than text, sorry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16nomore &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, it is the gaskets that cause a problem. Also, the seams in the frame of the car cause a problem as well. Steel doesn't conduct as well as aluminum. Then you get the sealant and paint. So yeah, bring everything back to a common point...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gaskets are a problem since the only path the current can take is through the fasteners. And corrosion definitely can increase resiatnce here since the current must flow between boundaries TWISE (at the threads AND at the head). As for steel vs aluminum, it is true that steel is not as good of a conductor. But since the actual amount of material is so great in relation to the current, this is not of concern. As with aluminum pieces, the main loss of conductivity occurs where there is a discontinuity in the material. Welds are not so much the problem as bolts are.

 

If you look in my sig, there is a link to my Fotki album. I run a '91 Integra and have a kit installed in it. There is a pic of the location of the Ground Block, between the battery and the engine mount.
StorminMatt: I totally agree with the discontinuity comment. My kit is designed to get rid of the whole cable-&gt;terminal-&gt;bolt-&gt;conductor relationship. It is, in my humble opinion, the best and most thought out solution to upgrade the grounds on your car. It isn't just a handfull of cables...