C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier?

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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 08:23 AM
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BigDawwg6969's Avatar
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Default C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier?

I keep on getting a clicking sound whenever I turn my steering wheel. Buddy said it was the CV joints. Since both are going bad would it be easier to replace the whole axle assembly or just replace the CV joints? Also looking for the most cost effective way to do this.
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 08:28 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (BigDawwg6969)

You have to remove axle to repair the joints and it is quicker to just replace the axle therefore making it more cost effective. Time is money in some instances.
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 08:56 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (1)

Its reallyy much easier to remove the whole axle and have it replaced with a rebuilt one. Make sure to call around and see who's price is cheapest, and who has a warranty.

Some places have no warranty, some places have lifetime... and you should pay anywhere from $49.95 to $99.95.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 05:01 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (iplaybass)

Also, some places offer a core return if you give them your old axle. I had to replace the boot on mine (the joint was still fine) and it ended up being easier and cheaper to replace the whole axle since I didn't want a cheap "clam shell" boot. Pep Boys is your friend for rebuild parts.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 06:08 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (travis)

Watch with PepBoys if you have an Si. They always try to sell me DX axels because they will fit. I honestly don't know if there are many differences, but the axels that they have tried to sell me in the past have a smaller looking CV joint than my Si (orange stripe) axels. The spline fits, but the cup looks smaller. Advance auto is the only place that I've found that acknowledges the stipes on the axel and sells you an orange stripe for an Si.

That being said, do the whole axel. You can literally do it in under an hour and keep your hands relatively clean.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 06:27 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (therealciviczc)

They probably tried to sell you HF shaft which are smaller then SI/DX axles. SI and DX use the same exact axles. And do the whole axle time is money
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 06:47 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (CRX Toad)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They probably tried to sell you HF shaft which are smaller then SI/DX axles. SI and DX use the same exact axles. And do the whole axle time is money</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not 100% sure. The spline fit fine so I don't think it was an HF or STD, but the actual axel was smaller and the CV joint cup was smaller. Various locations have done this to me so I finally stopped going there.


EDIT: Actually, I just looked on hondaautomotiveparts.com, and they list different part numbers for DX and Si axels and outer CV joints. The inner joints are obviously the same, but according that site, and according to what my experiences have been, the Si and DX do use different, but compatible axels. The DX ones fit, but they look smaller. I think those are the pink stripe axels. All of the Si's I've purchased are the orange stripe axels, and the HF I think uses a green stripe.

I really am only going by limited sources... Basically hondaautomotiveparts, Advance auto, and what I've seen over the years... Is there anyone that knows for sure what the story is on axels.... not what will fit, but what actually belongs in there? I'm thinking...

Si: orange
Dx: pink
STD/HF: green

So I'm standing by my original claim that pep boys should be avoided because you will likly come out of there with the smaller DX axel instead of the Si axel. Advance, in the past anyhow, asks you what color stripe is on your axel and replaces is as such.


Modified by therealciviczc at 4:00 PM 1/5/2004
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 07:26 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (therealciviczc)

All the chain stores sell aftermarket axles. None of then have the rubber balancer like OEM do. Look in the phonebook for an axle shop. Call around and see who specializes in rebuilding them. I can get both OEM axles rebuilt for under 100 bucks.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 08:23 AM
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Default Re: C/V joint/ whole axle. which is easier? (BigDawwg6969)

No doubt about it... Change the axels. Local auto parts stores all get the same quality refurbed' axels so anywhere will do. Best price is the way to go when getting them. Change your transmission fluid while you are at it. Very important in the life and smoothness of your tranny.
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 11:19 AM
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Default

Take it from someone who has rebuilt his own axles...If I had the option of buying/exchanging mine I would of, other wise its a huge PITA!
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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Default Re: (Smokinsax)

How many splines are on the STD?
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 05:45 PM
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Default Re: (BigDawwg6969)

I rebuilt my teg axles with little problems. It just took an hour or so of my day. Ryan

ps, eather way is good
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 06:17 PM
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Default Re:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigDawwg6969 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many splines are on the STD?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

STD = 23 outer splines
DX/Si = 26 outer splines
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Old Jan 5, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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Default Re: Re: (FourthGenHatch)

thanks guys! I appreciate the help
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