Could you guys please give me your opinion on the best N/A engine setup for my R? It will remain my daily driver but I want a powerful beast that will hit 13s all day at the track. I have around $4,000-5,000 (including labor and dyno time) to spend on my baby and here's what I'm thinking: Toda Spec B Cams, Crower Ti retainers, Crower Dual Valve Springs, Endyn High Compression Pistons (11-maybe12:1), Crower Forged Rods, Apexi VAFC(maybe even stage 3 Hondata).........what else do you guys think???comments, suggestions, and recommendations are welcomed........

Thanks,
Anthony

 

that'll bring u into the 13s

 

Strip out the interior and make the car as light as possible and you are there....easily.

I would add a JDM final drive to your list.

 

I agree with BigPhat R. You really don't need that much work to do, IMO. Gut your interior, drop A/C, lighter flywheel, JDM final drive, Toda A, VAFC, test and tune + add on intake, header, exhaust. But, what do I know... I have a bone stock R.

 

If you go with Todas, I suggest going with their valve springs also. And you don't need the rods. Go to http://godspeed.hack.net or http://www.aj-racing.com for Toda package prices. A fully programmable ECU like HOndata would be nice, but only if you plan on actually adjusting stuff. If not, just get a preprogrammed one that has fuel and ignition maps for your setup and use the V-AFC to fine tune.

 

ok guys........let's say low 13s.......anything else at all you think i'm missing or no?
Also what does the JDM Final Drive do to the car?

Thanks

 

Anthony,

you don't happen to have a son named Anthony do you? Drives a black GS-R with ITR wing, AEM, lowered, nitrous? If so, I went to high school with him.

 

If he is driving it daily, I don't think stripping the interior is very practical

 

Seems like all those mods in the sig should be enough to get the car into the low low 14's, even high 13's??

With 4 G's to spend, you would be aiming for high 12's. According to people more knowledgeable than I, if you are at 170-180whp, you can run high 13's.


[Modified by Ross1013, 2:16 AM 9/26/2001]

 

you might want to look into some head porting
i don't know alot about b18c5, i'm more into 2.2's

i have a dpr head and some bolt ons on my prelude and that got me into the 13's

give dpr a call or portflow ect.
everyone has their favorite shop
mine is DPR

 

Heres my N/A set up. 1996 JDM B18C. (ITR) Completey rebuilt with 6,000 miles on it. The head has been ported. It had a valve job. Has portflow inner springs and titanium retainers.Has Toda Spec A cams.Skunk2 gears. Throttle body has been taper lathed from 70 mm to 65 at the plate.Block has been totally rebuilt. All new bearings,seals, pumps etc. Has Endyne 12:6 pistons. stock ITR rods with ARP rod bolts. Has Comptech lightweight flywheel with new ITR clutch.Comes with ported JDM 4-1 header. Inc. wire harness, and PYR programmed P28 ecu. This motor is putting down 197whp and 138 tq with v-afc. Have dyno sheets to prove it. Also have papers for motor. Motor is currently for sale asking $7000. Dont waste your time on the Toda B's

 

You'll hit 13's with street tires all day with the setup u just named and you dont have to gut your interior...just put the car on to a dyno and get it tuned right


[Modified by DelsolVtec18, 7:03 AM 9/26/2001]

 

Ross whatup.......Y2KPhoenixR is my dad (he's Tony). Whats goin on man?? gimme a ring some time. I just went to the track last week with my dad and I pulled a 13.8 and he pulled a 14.5. He is a bit jealous cause' the R can't hit the 13s like the GS-R...........so being the competative person he is, the R MUST PULL 13s ALL DAY. LOL. I love my family!!!!

But he just bought some Nitto Street Slicks a couple days ago and we're taking it up to Lebanon Valley Dragway tonight........so maybe he'll hit that magic #.
I would take my car up but my clutch is roasted from last week!!!(too much power for it)

 

and hey everyone like pictures right?!?!??! here are some family pix:



[IMG][/IMG]

 

hey slick how far are you from buckland

 

You can get into the 13's without the endyne pistons. Toda B's, VAFC, and dyno time will get you the mid 13's you're seeking with the mods you already have.

 

About 5 minutes..............how about you? Ever go to those Manchester Honda "Car Shows" where everyone with stickers and a 10" exhaust tip hangs out?

 

it shouldnt take that much for a itr to get into the 13s considering some crazy drivers run low 14s stock. just get some slicks and get i/h/e. should get you into your desired goal pretty easily with some awesome driving skills

 

well with these mods that I have planned (Toda Spec B Cams, Crower Ti retainers, Crower Dual Valve Springs, Endyn High Compression Pistons (11-maybe12:1), Crower Forged Rods, Apexi VAFC(maybe even stage 3 Hondata)) along with the street slicks that I have recently acquired what do you think the times will be????? I'm thinking mid-low 13s, no?

 

You can build yourself a strong *** street motor without breaking open your block to put Endyn pistons in. Although the Endyns would be an EXCELLENT choice, they are not 100% necessary.

Count Spec B's out. Some people love 'em, I personally hate 'em. Especially if your car is strictly for street, the idle sucks, and the power off idle is terrible(below 4000rpm). I would stick with the Toda Spec A cams. Get a good head port(I suggest Topspeed Performance here in Naples.), get a good header like a JDM DC or a JDM 4-1, and raise your compression. If you have a ITR, and the block is broken in properly, you shouldn't have to tear it apart. A properly broken in motor that was built by Honda will last forever. To raise your compression, I would mill about 20 thou off the head. This will put you just over 11:1 and you'll be loving the increased torque from all these mods.

Granted, the Spec B's will give more top end, but the Spec A's offer a broder power band in my opinion.

Do what you want, it's your money.


My current street setup seems to work great. I have all the following mods listed above with exception to the Spec A's. I am keeping those for my B20 CX. I have 98 ITR cams, AEM intake, Skunk2 cam gears, JDM DC 4-1, stock ITR exhaust and 11:1 compression. Dyno'd my car this past weekend and got 179.6 and 132.0 at the wheels. Feels great on the street. Idle is perfect and it gets 26mpg.

 

Going off-topic:

It's beautiful to see a father-son competition like that. *sigh* If only my dad were like me.

Going back on topic:

Sounds like a very agressive setup. Should get you into the 13.5 or lower area with the slicks. But what do I know? I drive a completely stock ITR.

 

why don't you just go tune it and run it yourself.. then you'll KNOW what you can do in it, no more guessing! we can say all say that you'll run this or you'll run that but none of us know how strong your motor is in it's current condition (done a compression test lately?) or how good a driver you are. and remember, power is only a quarter of the equation.. i've seen plenty of quick cars that only realized half of their potential due to shitty driving.. and no i'm not saying you're a shitty driver.. i've never seen you drive so i can't say..

sure we can sit here and hypothesize all day about what you may be able to pull, but who cares about what you MAY do... it's what you DO that counts..

get out there and show us what your car is capable of! good luck man..

 

damn man, i know, i know I'm actually goin to the track tonight (again) but lately it's been so cold out it's hard to get traction in 1st gear. And I AM a good driver (I pulled a 14.9 out of a GS-R with just an intake and exhaust which is quite respectableI think). My R has 25,000 miles on it and I take care of her like a child, oil changed at 1,000 miles, and 3,000 thereafter. I only put 94 OCTANE Sunoco in and the car dynoed at 175.6 WHP.
I'm simply inferring on what you guys have for setups, the + and - of them, and some suggetions on what I should get.....thats all bojanges so calm down bro......

 

I'm not arguing with Mike K., but I think he is blowing the B's idle quality out of proportion. I personally bought B's for the lumpy idle! Talk about an intimidating sound for a 4 cyl to have. There are 4 of us her in NC that run this same set-up and I don't think any of us have gripes. I can attest that weather plays a big part with my set-up as does warm-up time. Seems like very humid weather causes the idle quality to deteriorate. With air density decreasing I'm sure the fuel is drowning the motor a bit. I would say I had 5 days all summer where I had the car cut off 2-3x in a single day. Mostly this is when you come to a sudden stop and the idle drops drastically. I've noticed that most off idle stuble happens if the car isn't completely warmed-up yet. The extra few minutes make a BIG difference.
I think the BIG decision is how far do you ultimately want to take the car? The only thing the B's need over the A's are a valvetrain really. Your going to have the basics anyway, I/H/E and VAFC/Fields unit. Both set-ups will respond to compression well, so that is a moot point. The longevity issue does come into play, but if your building your car for all out performance your already sacrificing that to an extent!

 

I'm with Chris on this one. I also run Spec B's in my car, and in current state of tune, I have a very steady idle. I do need to take the time to warm her up properly, but that's just better for the car anyway.

And I also disagree with "no power below 4k." I have plenty of juice down low. It's one of the best qualities of Spec B's.