I have to replace my clutch and my throwout bearing, in my 90 civic si., and i was wondering how difficult it was going to be, and if it comes out without removing motor, which it looks like you can, if someone could give me a little info you would make my life alot easier, thanks.


Modified by Wes90civic at 10:06 PM 12/29/2003

 

yeah it'll come out without taking out the motor.. take out through the bottom.. you can remove the torsion arm to make it easier. good luck.. first time doing one is alway a bitch.. hehe

 

its prolly JDM YO!! never heard of that one?

 

first, to respond to the dipshits about the 90 si standard - he is saying he has a 1990 si with a standard or manual transmission. which is why he is saying he needs to replace his clutch and throwout bearing.

anyway, you will need to take the axles out of the tranny, and also make sure that you put a jack stand under the motor cause three of the four mounts for the motor and tranny are actually on the tranny. find all the bolts that hold the tranny to the block, also remove the bolts that go through the starter, the longer one actually goes into the block, take the starter off and then you have a hole that you can grab onto in order to hold the tranny as you lower it. you don't have to remove the torsion arm, that's optional. i haven't had a problem with that being in my way. there are like 5 bolts that go from the tranny into the block, and then on the back side of the motor there are a couple of bolts that go from the block into the tranny. good luck - it's a pretty easy job, it just takes a little time to get some of the bolts out - the air gun doesn't reach all of them.

 

hatchblack is correct...

i would also add this...that you'll need to remove the speedometer cable, clutch cable and various other plugs that will be obvious if you've turned a wrench before. i have had the best luck removing the traction bar simply because it gives you more room...although it can also be done without it...for your sake i would so you have the most room available. you can either lower the transmission onto your chest...which is how i do it...or manuever a jack under the transmission...as the motor will be sitting at an angle after removing the transmission mount. if you have a second person...one can slide the transmission off of the input shaft...and hold it steady while the other lowers the jack. or...you can get under the car on your back and wrestle it off...drop it on your chest...and slide it out that way. i prefer the way without use of the jack...while my dad likes to do it the other way. i guess its whatever you feel comfortable with.

 

Good info, ill be swaping trannys this spring.

 

dont forget to unbolt the shift linkage. its also easier if you take the linkage that is connected via bitch pin out with the tranny. then you can hammer that **** out in a more comfortable position.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonGP4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah it'll come out without taking out the motor.. take out through the bottom.. you can remove the torsion arm to make it easier. good luck.. first time doing one is alway a bitch.. hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>

TORSION ARM? This car has coil springs. Jack it up on stands, unbolt the lower control arm so axels can be popped. unbolt the front crosmember and ha a floor jack to hold motor as 3 of 4 mounts are on the Transmission. the rest is obvious what comes off.

 

since i'm bored, i'll go a step by step process of removing the gearbox. Mind you, this is all from memory and I've yanked about 15-20 transmissions from various crxs/civics/preludes.

Tools you'll need:
10mm socket
10mm 12-point socket
10mm punch (for bitch pin)
12mm socket
12mm wrench
14mm socket
17mm socket and wrench
17mm 12-point socket
32mm socket
flathead screw driver
2 jacks
2 jack stands
extensions
rachets.

Things that make this easier:
Transmission fluid (you could reuse the old fluid, but, it's not recommended)
Grease (for the input shaft as well as the throw-out bearing)
a big piece of wood that can be laid across the engine bay and be able to hold at LEAST 100lbs
rope
drinks..
gloves, latex

1: put car in Reverse and block rear wheels (e-brake it)
2: pop hood and get out the tools
3: remove air elements, air box, and everything up to the throttle body.
4: disconnect and remove battery
5: remove battery tray (12mm bolts i believe)
6: disconnect the clutch cable and wrap on driver side fender
7: remove ground wire to clutch bracket (10mm) and reverse switch connection
8: disconnect and remove radiator fan (10mm) (provides more room)
9: disconnect wiring for starter (12mm)
10: remove speedo cable
11: loosen wheel lugs
12: jack car up and place on jack stands and remove wheels
13: place bucket under gearbox
14: remove gearbox drain plug (use rachet extension), replace when drained
15: remove bitchpin from shift linkage (10mm punch) and remove linkage
16: remove shift stabilizer from gearbox (12mm)
17: looking thru the pass. wheel well, remove splash guard and remove the lower starter bolt (12mm)
18: remove upper starter bolt from on top (12mm)
19: have a drink now. you're almost done
20: place flathead screwdriver between gearbox and axle, hammer between, axles should pop out.
21: remove sway bar linkage to both LCA (12mm wrench and socket)
22: remove shock forks from both shocks (14mm pinch bolt, 17mm fork to lca)
23: unbolt the pass. side torque rod (17mm bolts, axle gets in the way at times)
24: unbolt the LCAs (both sides) from chassis (14mm), axles should be able to be pulled completely out of the gearbox and pushed aside. Passenger side should swing completely out, the driver side can be pulled out enough to allow the axle to drop.
25: place jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan and use as additional support for engine. While under there, remove engine to gearbox bolts, they go thru the engine to the gearbox near the linkage) (17mm)
26: remove front engine mount (makes it easier to reinstall) (14mm?)
27: remove the rear gearbox mount (pain in the *** if someone hasn't done this before) (17mm).
28: prior to removing the pass. side gearbox mount, ensure engine is supported by jack.
29: Place second jack under gearbox and remove pass side mount (17mm) from chassis, not from gearbox.
30: begin removing the gearbox to engine bolts. (17mm)
31: separate gearbox from engine by pulling, shaking and tugging on the gearbox. if you see a separation between the bellhousing and the engine, place a flathead screwdriver in the crack. using that as a crowbar, the jack as help.
32: once separated, lower jack lift gearbox from starter hole, pull jack out from under car, and slide gearbox out.
33: replace throwout-bearing (12mm)

installation is reverse of removal. tips:
- when trying to get the engine and gearbox lined up for reinstallation, lay the wood across the fenders, tie the rope around the gearbox, and lift one side of the piece of wood as a pulley of sorts to raise the gearbox. have a friend push the gearbox into place.

the 12point sockets are for removal of the pressure plate and flywheel.

this should only take you a whopping 4hrs the first time. air tools are your friend, as they make removing the gearbox/engine mounts a piece of cake.

good luck.

 

WOW thanks guy you ALL have been so helpful, and since i have 5 days off starting tomorrow i am going to do it this thurs. From all the info you guys gave ( expecially DRIVEN'S page long info) i should have not problem, the way i see it is you only learn by doing it, thanks.

 

i did it not too long ago. i did a clutch job at home.with 1 real jack..and 2 hand jacks from my civic. hahah. well lets say i will never do it again without the proper tools! overall..its not too bad..just time consuming..and taking out the tranny can be a biatch.. i left everyting in there, including the bar from the front x member. i should have just dropped it too..but i was too lazy to. so i screwed myself.
all you gotta do is..
take off the starter,
unplug all the plugs that are hooked up to your tranny,
unbolt all 3 mounts,
make sure you get a jack under your motor for support,
unbolt all 6 17mm tranny bolts.. 5 on the tranny side and 1 behind where the driverside axle is at.
take off both axle..
slide out the tranny..it should slide out fairly easy..but with that bar in the way..it will be a pain..so i would recommend taking off the front x member.
everything else should be self explanatory.. unbolt clutch, unbolt flywheel if need to resurface. then reverse it when putting it back in.

good luck!!

i would rate it a 7 out of 10 for difficulty

 

Good write up Drivin.

 

It is good to resurface your flywheel and change your pursuer plate while your at it.