im trying to install my ground control coilovers with koni yellows. i am a lil confused about how to put everything back together. i was looking over the diagram from ground control, and it says to use only 1 o-ring on each front shock. this o-ring is pictured as being above the rubber split sleeve, but then it says that the split sleeve will slide over the o-ring. then on the rear diagram, it says use two o-rings and the split sleeve will slide over the o-rings. so if only 6 o-rings are supposed to used, how come there are like 10+ o-rings in the bag? am i missing something?

there is also a bigger split sleeve that came with in the box. what is this for? what exactly is different for the koni shocks, so that you have to buy an adapter to mate it to GCs? is this the split sleeve?

also, does anyone have a picture showing the order of the washers/bushings that go on the shock? i have it in order from the install sheet of the koni yellows - (from bottom of shock to top) perch, split plastic washer, bump stop, two metal washers that dont go all the way down the shock piston, then the bushings and mounting plate.

thanks~

 

as for the o-rings, use how many you want. they just simply slide over the strut to keep the coilover assembly in place... also the o-rings help rid of vibrating noises. I used 2 o-rings per shock.

i dont know what you are talking about the washers and such.
doesnt the koni's come pre-assembled?

 

so slide the split sleeve over the o-rings or what?

should i have a o-ring right where the c-clip is on the shock for the adjuster to rest on?

pre-assembled konis? i dont remember, its been a while since ive done the install on my konis. im talking about the washers that go onto the shock body itself. u didnt put any washers on the shock?

 

anyone?

 

when i installed my koni yellows with GC , they didn't come with any O rings. they came with special aluminum adapters that went into the bottom of the the threaded sleeve. the sleeve then just sat on the shock. you dont' use the cups normal springs would sit in.

 

The different size o-rings are to get the threaded sleeve to fit nicely over the shock part...if its to loose...use bigger o-ring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by upstatecrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i installed my koni yellows with GC , they didn't come with any O rings. they came with special aluminum adapters that went into the bottom of the the threaded sleeve. the sleeve then just sat on the shock. you dont' use the cups normal springs would sit in.
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im guessing this is why i didnt receive a tool to turn the adjuster? since i can do it by hand?

 

upstate crx, how do you like your gc coilovers, i just ordered some neuspeed race springs and GR2 struts but id like some adjustment, any help is appreciated. thanks

 

the car doesn't ride like a caddy, but thats not what i want. it handles great! couldn't ask for more. i have 400lb rear springs and 350lb front springs, which is a lot stiffer than come with the normal GC kit. the car handles well, i also have a suspension tech rear bar and a full energy suspension bushing kit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rasta420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im guessing this is why i didnt receive a tool to turn the adjuster? since i can do it by hand?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can still order the spanner wrench from GC - it's not very expensive.

 

that spanner wrench sucks ****. sorry but with my 450s in the front, I could not raise the perch right up with it... But maybe it'll work for you.

 

I hear you!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=729358


&lt;edit:&gt; link.

 

Can I ask where you order your GC/Koni Yellows from?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hear you!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=729358


&lt;edit:&gt; link.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so which method should i try?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I ask where you order your GC/Koni Yellows from?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got my ground controls from ground control, and i got my koni yellows from rob at tornactive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newark man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">h</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome.

 

rasta, looks like you didnt get the KONI kit from GC. you should have specified that you were instlaling them on konis. koni shocks have a different type of lower perch than all other shocks and require a special adaptor. call GC up and tell them your situation.

the rubber sleeve is to provide a cushioned spacer between the threaded sleeve and shock cylinder. you then put o rings of whatever size works to make sure the threaded sleeve is snug. you dont have to worry about orings or the rubber sleeve on the GC/Koni combo. the special adaptor they have does well enough. wedging one oring up top is fine if you must insist on using an oring to provide a bit of a bumper, but including it then means you cannot use the shortened shock boot. shock boot is not totally needed, but its there for protection.


as for the bushings and order of the top of the shock assembly, FOLLOW STOCK ASSEMBLY unless otherwise replaced. i tihnk the only replacement they might include is the "spring mounting rubber", but for some springs stock rubber works fine also. all the washers including the damper stop plate and damper mounting washer are very important.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rasta, looks like you didnt get the KONI kit from GC. you should have specified that you were instlaling them on konis. koni shocks have a different type of lower perch than all other shocks and require a special adaptor. call GC up and tell them your situation.

the rubber sleeve is to provide a cushioned spacer between the threaded sleeve and shock cylinder. you then put o rings of whatever size works to make sure the threaded sleeve is snug. you dont have to worry about orings or the rubber sleeve on the GC/Koni combo. the special adaptor they have does well enough. wedging one oring up top is fine if you must insist on using an oring to provide a bit of a bumper, but including it then means you cannot use the shortened shock boot. shock boot is not totally needed, but its there for protection.


as for the bushings and order of the top of the shock assembly, FOLLOW STOCK ASSEMBLY unless otherwise replaced. i tihnk the only replacement they might include is the "spring mounting rubber", but for some springs stock rubber works fine also. all the washers including the damper stop plate and damper mounting washer are very important. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, yea i called GC a while ago and they told me they sent the wrong kit for me. i got the right ones now, but jus having trouble turning the sleeve to adjust it. they didnt send the tool either...what do you do to adjust it?

 

no special tool needed. like i said in the other post, this is how ive always raised my springs. if you need to raise it so high that this becomes too difficult, then i think you need to just get longer springs because youre out of range for the size of the springs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, if you are trying to raise the perch so high with the spring already compressed, then yeah, youre not going to be able to raise it any higher with just your hands. what i do if i need to raise it past the spring compression point is stick a wrench so that it rests on the top of the sleeve, then push up so that it pushed up one coil of the spring. it should relieve just enough pressure to thread it up a bit at a time. having an extra set of hands helps.

i dont really see any way to install it wrong so that its so hard to move, but its understandable that its harder to thread up when you have the spring pressing down. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

icic..

im actually havin trouble moving the sleeve down. it doesnt move at all, i tried with another person as well.

 

my method helps both raising and lowering by removing all stress from the collar.