Tensioner on Timing Chain
Can I ask why you want to get to it? There is a cover to the tensioner sort of top left of the crank pulley. And if you have to ask if all the oil should be drained you might not want to be performing this. Just my .02 worth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tom5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do I need to take off the whole aluminum cover to get to the tensioner? If I do have to take off the cover then do I need to drain all the oil?
Tom</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a small black access panel (2x 10mm) there is your tensioner
Do you need to replace it ?
Tom</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is a small black access panel (2x 10mm) there is your tensioner
Do you need to replace it ?
Do I need to take off the whole aluminum cover to get to the tensioner?
no
If I do have to take off the cover then do I need to drain all the oil?
would be a good idea
no
If I do have to take off the cover then do I need to drain all the oil?
would be a good idea
Someone on another rsx site told me to take off my crank pulley, motor mount, oil cooler hose + barb, and some bolts. So i was questioning that input. Thanks for the input here. Helps a lot.
Tom
Tom
Someone on another rsx site told me to take off my crank pulley, motor mount, oil cooler hose + barb, and some bolts
if your are removing the timing chain cover, yes
if just the tensioner, no
if your are removing the timing chain cover, yes
if just the tensioner, no
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsxmachine »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Eric is removing the tensioner only the method you used to swap out the cams? or did you find you had to undo the whole timing cover/chain</TD></TR></TABLE>
The easiest way is the longer route..in order to remove the timing cover you need to take off the serp belt crank pulley side engine mount bracket and of course the valve cover and any plastic clips holding the wire harness on and the Vtc sensor 1x 10mm . when you get to removing the chain i removed the tensioner when the timing cover was off. You also need to remove the chain guides after those are out the chain will chill loosely. You will want to loosen the valve adj nuts and take off the cam sensors on the other end of the motor to avoid damaging them upon cam removal. When you take the cams you will need to change over the pickup deal *chingus* on the end of the cams and change them over. *Caution* you need to remove the rocker arm assembly. Be very carefull removing this piece as it can fall apart easily your best bet is to tie the rocker arms together in 3;s with a zip tie or rubberband still be very carefull when removing it there is lots of small pieces in this assembly.You want to remove this on one piece Beware its like an Engine accordian LOL. Valve springs can be done with the head on the car. make sure you do one cyl at a time Tdc each cylinder just in case a valve slips down it wont go down in the the abyss.
Good luck
Note: Timing chain is marked with dark spots on the links that need to be line up with the dots on the cam gears and the crank line these up accordingly
If you need a copy of the service manuel i have a copy for you on Pdf
Thank you drive thru
The easiest way is the longer route..in order to remove the timing cover you need to take off the serp belt crank pulley side engine mount bracket and of course the valve cover and any plastic clips holding the wire harness on and the Vtc sensor 1x 10mm . when you get to removing the chain i removed the tensioner when the timing cover was off. You also need to remove the chain guides after those are out the chain will chill loosely. You will want to loosen the valve adj nuts and take off the cam sensors on the other end of the motor to avoid damaging them upon cam removal. When you take the cams you will need to change over the pickup deal *chingus* on the end of the cams and change them over. *Caution* you need to remove the rocker arm assembly. Be very carefull removing this piece as it can fall apart easily your best bet is to tie the rocker arms together in 3;s with a zip tie or rubberband still be very carefull when removing it there is lots of small pieces in this assembly.You want to remove this on one piece Beware its like an Engine accordian LOL. Valve springs can be done with the head on the car. make sure you do one cyl at a time Tdc each cylinder just in case a valve slips down it wont go down in the the abyss.
Good luck
Note: Timing chain is marked with dark spots on the links that need to be line up with the dots on the cam gears and the crank line these up accordingly
If you need a copy of the service manuel i have a copy for you on Pdf
Thank you drive thru
thanks a lot! I was reading some old stuff by edo where he talked about swapping the cams by just removing the tensioner and chain guide (without undoing the pulley and chain cover), so I was curious what you thought of that. also my friend ray has the adapter to compress the cylinders with air during the spring install.
I already have the Helms and have read the cyl. head chapter thoroughly
say did you send out my valvesprings yet?
I already have the Helms and have read the cyl. head chapter thoroughly
say did you send out my valvesprings yet?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsxmachine »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
say did you send out my valvesprings yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea ..you should see them by monday
say did you send out my valvesprings yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea ..you should see them by monday
I would guess there are two versions...
the tensioner for the RSX-S is p/n 14510-PRB-A01
for the base RSX (and probably for the EP3) is 14510-PNA-003
that little thing is a PITA!
the tensioner for the RSX-S is p/n 14510-PRB-A01
for the base RSX (and probably for the EP3) is 14510-PNA-003
that little thing is a PITA!
All have chains.
It is a thousand times easier to remove the auto tensioner through the access plate. One thing to make sure of though, is that you compress it again before attempting reinstallation (a given to some, but to others
). It is really not hard at all to do cams on a K20A2.
It is a thousand times easier to remove the auto tensioner through the access plate. One thing to make sure of though, is that you compress it again before attempting reinstallation (a given to some, but to others
). It is really not hard at all to do cams on a K20A2.
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Fuzbal
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Oct 22, 2012 10:22 PM




