OK, everything is set up and installed guys thanks for the help so far.
I'm going to be running the hack on 7 psi with DSM 450's, on an H22A1. Can anyone tell me an initial setting for the vafc so I can drive it to the dyno? I've searched for settings, but all i can find are settings for civics/integras.

Any pointers on how NOT to throw a CEL?

 

K thanks, ill let u know how it goes, , im gonna try to start her up tonight... hopefullly no damn oil leaks. Ill be takin it to a dyno asap

 

buy somethen more advanced then an vafc

 

OK I started the car up, and it idles like ***. It idles at about 1k, then starts puttering and almost stalls, and does this in a cyclical manner. What can this be? Running too rich/lean, fuel injector failure? Also, when I tried to crank the car to see if the oil feed was getting oil, no oil would come out , can this be because the engine is not on?

 

yes, the oil pump is gear-driven, so it will not work till the car's cranked.

I would guess the sputtering is from running too rich. Try leaning out the low RPM's a little at a time and see if it runs better.

 

OK I've tried frrom -34% to -39%, -39% idles better, but the almost stallin still happens. It runs for a few seconds strongly, then falls off and almost stalls, any other ideas?
I am also getting an oil light, I put 5 quarts in, but my dipstick isn't reading very well, there is an oil spot very high up the stick.

 

this is some infor i found some where, credit given to the original poster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unknown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Parts Needed:
HONDA TURBO APEXi V/S-AFC FUEL MOD (PROPS TO LIAM821 for making this mod and to dropshop/usdmed9 for info and pics )write up compiled by Flipwon & dropshop/usdmed9
Parts Needed:
-APEXi V/S-AFC Fuel Controller (wired like the manual says..no wiring hacks)
-Stock Honda MAP sensor utilized ( no check valves or missing link sort of devices needed for boost up to 10psi w/o CEL)
-(4) 450 CC Injectors found in 91-99 DSM Talons/Eclipses/Lasers
-Injector Resistor Box from 88-91 style Hondas (needed if your car runs saturated injectors oem)
-Walbro 255 lr/hr high flow intake pump $109 at http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com
-Stock fuel pressure regulator and pressure is just fine in most cases
Settings:
-Set Fuel mapping for both Hi and Lo Throttle settings from 1000RPM-8000RPM at -40% (basically if ur rev range is until 7200 for example, set the fuel setting to like 7.5 or 8 so ur sure that it extends and covers all of the range u need..on a 8200 on a dohc vtec motor for example. Set fuel for the 1000 to 8500/9000 range)
-Lo/Hi fuel throttle point/crossover setting at 71%/72% (because thats when the honda ecu switches to open-loop mode..but this shouldnÂ’t matter much because the lo and high maps are exactly the same..some people run a 98%/99% setting..it doesnÂ’t really matter)
Additional Notes:
“That's exactly how I set mine up. Thus far it works for me @10psi with -35% trim. I tried -30% but it was too low a trim and it wound up setting off a MIL for the MAP. So I lowered it to -35% trim, 10psi no problem I set mine up as follows:
1-4k= -40%
4.5k= -38%
5k= -36%
5.5-7k= -35%
***( this means for 0-10psi boost with non modded map sensor, You have a range of -50% to -35% to play with. Any thing higher then -35 would most likely throw a code. 30 threw a code so the exact limit is somewhere between -35 and -30 but well say -35 for now)
***You lower the map input so much with the afc you allow yourself room on the honda ECU for boosting around 10psi.
***Fuel settings are, -40% from 1000-4000rpms, -35% from 5000-8000rpms (to be safe i increased the 5000+ rpms by 5%Â…done to richen the mixture in higher rpms for safety of course). The settings are the same on high and low throttle settings.
***“ i had mine at -48% before and it ran fine although idle was pretty ruff. Was that lean?? well not really -46% is like stock back to the fuel stock ratio when using 450cc injectors i did -48% so i could pass smog ;-)
***i was thinkin i might need an extra -10 to lean out the fuel on a smaller motor/non vtec or on lower boost?? well the ECU will correct for the lower fuel needed for the non-vtec, you just need to correct for the size of the injector increase really.
***This runs extremely smooth, like a stock turbo car, where u donÂ’t notice the transition into boost,
***with an afc you can idle a 450cc injector without a problem. the first settings is 1000rpms. but it corrects from 0-1000rpms on the 1000rpm setting. just set the 1000rpm setting and the idle will be fine.
***if you use a stock pump...get a fuel pressure gauge so you know you are still moving enough fuel. but i highly recommend a walbro intank pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Thanks for the info Keith, I'm just worried that the problem of almost stalling is beyond just the vafc settings. Is this a symptom of anything else? My initial guess is a spark plug or fuel injector problem. Any other opinions?


Modified by vet_girl at 11:21 PM 12/23/2003

 

Has anyone done this on a Prelude?

I am wondering if you want to boost over 10 psi, what would you do to make this work? Would using a check-valve screw anything up?

 

I think that you can boost over 10 psi on the hack without throwing a cel.

Anyways, my idle is better, i did -30% and it kinda worked itself out. Hopefully it will get better.

 

Read your plugs, let it idle for a minute then pull them what color are they? dark fuggin black? then lean it out, are they white? richen it up. Don't beat the car till you get it to a dyno that would be the first thing i would do. Plug reading is your friend , But once you know exactly what to look for you can tune the car to drive till you get it on they dyno like i did

 

jz,
I think it's reading vacuum right, cuz it fluctuates, the idle problem fixed itself out because i put it down to -30 and it idles ok now.

What still worries me is my oil light is on, and when I check my dipstick I get this whack reading where oil is about an inch above the two dots. I only put 5 quarts in, any ideas on this? Maybe the oil hasn't settled yet? OR perhaps it's because I tapped into the oil sending unit for my oil feed.

EDIT: I looked under the car, and yup there's a small puddle of oil...damnit...I'm guessin it's the oil pan. Maybe I'll retorque those bolts in a few days


Modified by vet_girl at 12:45 AM 12/24/2003

 

got pics of the finished product?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got pics of the finished product?</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed! post pics please.

 

Yea , I plan on posting pics once I get her running, as far as the oil leak, I'll take a look at it after the holidays, maybe on the 26th see what's the matter down there.

 

OK I couldn't wait
For those few of you that actually care, my oil leak seems to be fixed, it was just a loose adaptor. Thank god. Im gonna drive her around the block tomorrow, see how it goes.

 

Alright I just got done driving the car around the block. First and foremost, I'm runnin an open dp, and goddamn! it is SOOO loud. I can hear the turbine when i let off the gas. I didn't get to hear a very solid blow off from the bov, probably because I'm not taking it to full boost, or maybe I connected the vacuum line wrong.
Anyhow my car still idles like *** bag when I lean it out -31% or below, so I have my setting at -31%. I checked my plugs and it's running really rich, but it has a hard time idling when I lean it out...doesn't really make sense. Also, after driving it for about 10 minutes, when my car was idling, it sounded like it was puttering; I've never heard a misfire/detonation or ping before so can someone tell me what I should be listening for?

 

Yea it's reading boost. When I try to lean it out that far, but idle starts to putter and die. Better rich than lean right? any other opinions?

 

There is a such thing as toooo rich. I had a turbo setup in my teg not to long ago and when it was first installed w/o tuning it was puttering the same way as yours and idle was crap. This is b/c the safc can not handle those 450's on there. I have 450's and i was better off with like 350 b/c the safc couldnt lean it out enough. I had it leaned out to the max and was still dumping way too much fuel in. I got it out of the putering mode but still eating a lot of fuel. Try to get your car running well for a while then swap out those injectors for something smaller or keep the injectors and go with a completly diffferent method of tuning.

 

That makes sense, however what I don't understand why my engine "seemingly" idles better when i richen it.

 

I'm pretty sure it's reading pressure right, I was getting around -500 mmHg at idle, and would increase to -300mmHg as I got her up to around 3-4K RPM, this seems normal right? But why is it a negative pressure value, vacuum, and the afc measures absolute pressure, not gauge pressure correct?

As far as the sensor settings, I've set it at 6 in 6 out like you said, but I don't know what the hell these numbers do, so I'm a bit hesitant to mess around with them, what other sensor settings should I try?