have a 90 crx dx and the motor got messed up so i put in a d16a6. did all the wiring according to fourthgenhatch.com's. now my ecu is throwing a code 4 and my idle is at 2200 rpm and i get fuel cut at 3200 rpm. what is the problemand how can i fix it. i solder all my connections and did everything according to the site. help pls, i want my car back on the road.

i'm dumb and just realized something-what is the order of the injector plugs starting from the far left injector by the dizzy?


Modified by mugenwannabe at 12:30 PM 12/25/2003

 

did you change to a si distributor. Code 4 is for tdc/crank sensor. and are you sure the wiring is correct.

 

yes, i got a whole si engine.

 

triple check your wiring. somehting is definitly not right which is why your car is going into limp mode. Also make sure your dizzy isnt damaged. You can try trouble shooting with the instruction on my sig. let me know what happens

 

I think that website skipped a step. Make sure you cut and solder the wires for the crank angle sensor.. and one more, i forget

 

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html

this is the site, can anyone tell me if it is correct or not

 

doesn't hasport make a harness to make the swap easier? worth the money?

 

i used that same web page and didnt have any problems...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenwannabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html

this is the site, can anyone tell me if it is correct or not</TD></TR></TABLE>

it is now - it did leave out one thing before - when you cut the orange and white wires that originally were at C1 & C2, you need to connect them to the pins added at B10 and B12

 

One thing I have been pondering is wouldn't it be easier to depin C1 and C2 and plug them into B10 and B12 and that would eliminate needing to solder at least one part. Than take depin wires from B2 and B11 and just cut them and solder a big wire onto them and plug them in. Seems like that would be a lot easier. Anyone want to confirm my theory?

 

Yep you've got it FourthGenHatch, that was from the early writeups that they recommended doing that and everyone copied it into their instructions. They are sometimes pesky to get out of the ECU connectors but if you can't pry them you can use brute force and the tabs will bend back when the pin pulls out of the connector.
Honda makes a pin tool for them. Small scewdriver works okay for the most part, OBD1 pins are cake to remove.

Instructions are right except for the ecu plug diagrams he has them backwards and explains that you are looking at the wire side when that is really the pin side that is listed. Honda connectors always start on the top left as #1 when looking at it from the back(wire poking out) side.
Those extra wires that you use for pins are for Auto trannies they are in all Dx and base model car harnesses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caleb V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep you've got it FourthGenHatch, that was from the early writeups that they recommended doing that and everyone copied it into their instructions. They are sometimes pesky to get out of the ECU connectors but if you can't pry them you can use brute force and the tabs will bend back when the pin pulls out of the connector.
Honda makes a pin tool for them. Small scewdriver works okay for the most part, OBD1 pins are cake to remove.

Instructions are right except for the ecu plug diagrams he has them backwards and explains that you are looking at the wire side when that is really the pin side that is listed. Honda connectors always start on the top left as #1 when looking at it from the back(wire poking out) side.
Those extra wires that you use for pins are for Auto trannies they are in all Dx and base model car harnesses.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So if I understand you correctly, cutting the wires at the ecu pins and resoldering them was the old way of swapping the pins and wires at the OBD0 B and C, ecu connectors and no-ones gotten around to re-writing the instruction to the updated way of swapping wires and pins by depinning instead of cutting? Is that the gist of what you're saying?
And I agree OBD1 pins are MUCH easier. LOL

 

The first person wrote it that way I believe on the old unified hybrid. Everyone else just CTL+C and CTL+V ed it into their websites, it's all over the place. Maybe there thinking was the pins were tough to get out, I would rather pull pins than have more to solder when doing a conversion harness in a customers car. Heck the first time I tried a DX-MPFI swap I think I had about 30+ solder connections and finally got it down to about I think it was 5-6 the last time around if you have all the parts. Now to make better use of my free time and build the harnesses here at home instead of going out and building them in other peoples garages and having to be away from home.

 

It's a pain in the *** to solder things under the dash so the less soldering the better.

As for the pin location that is the way I used it to do mine and it worked fine. I think most people will guage themselves by just searching for the colored wires they know and go from there.

 

HEHE yeah it sure is, back when I did my first OBD1 car and I crimped every wire of an OBD0-OBD1 install by hand laying on my stomach on the folded down seat. That wasn't fun, it was about 95% humidity, raining outside and I was in a cold damp, wet garage in about 45degree weather, all my Helm manuals were waterlogged from the humidity. Never again.

 

QUOTE=FourthGenHatch]One thing I have been pondering is wouldn't it be easier to depin C1 and C2 and plug them into B10 and B12 and that would eliminate needing to solder at least one part. Than take depin wires from B2 and B11 and just cut them and solder a big wire onto them and plug them in. Seems like that would be a lot easier. Anyone want to confirm my theory?[/QUOTE]

That's exactly wut i did. Also, instead of cutting and soldering any of the connections for the injectors, I just deppined the red and yellow wires from a1 and a5 and reppinned them to a3 and a7. Then I just took the brown and blue wires from si plugs and ran them to the injectors. I hate splicing and soldering.

This has got me wondering. Has anyone taken an si engine harness and just depinned and repinned it at the firewall connector to match that of a dx? That would be interesting. NO cutting or splicing....but i can't remember if they connect together or if the're shaped differently....
just a thought

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This has got me wondering. Has anyone taken an si engine harness and just depinned and repinned it at the firewall connector to match that of a dx? That would be interesting. NO cutting or splicing....but i can't remember if they connect together or if the're shaped differently....
just a thought</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I'd like to know too, just for arguments sake. Anyone ever try that?
Or Just repinning the DX harness with the Si connectors? To make it plug and play?

 

It works just fine if you just take the Si parts and and add them in. Use a small 4 or 6 pin connector plastic male and female near the firewall and you are golden. Problem is for every 20 DXs in the junkyard there is one Si so the parts are hard to come by for building harnesses for people. Gotta improvise with new pins or pigtails.

 

i think i found the problem

 

i have the same problem help