Hey guys...I am offering up 50$ or your choice of miscellaneous crx/civic hatch parts like clear tails, starters, dizzys, a/c, wutever u want....I promise to give this to whoever gives me the answer with solves my problem.

Here it goes. So earlier this month, I swapped a 91 D16A6 into my 88 civic hatch dx. I encountered no problems besides the fact that it wont start. I've checked over the wiring at least 10 times. I've checked for continuity with a multimeter on all the wires I've added like the 4 injectors(brn, red, blue, yellow), the inector resistor box power (yellow/blk), the 4 injector resistance feeds (red/blk), the 2 dizzy wires (blue/yellow, blue/green) at C1 and C2 and the org. and wht. wires i switched to b10 and b12.
The wires were all fine. I soldered and heat shrunk ALL connections. I also checked the resistor box to see if the resistance was still good...yep, 6 ohms to each of the four wires...perfect. I checked for fuel...yep getting fuel. I checked for spark....yep getting spark. I checked for compression...yep fine there. I'm throwing no ecu error codes except an occasional code 20 which is the code for "electronic load sensor". Which means that I have bad grounding somewhere. But i've double and triple checked all that. I checked all the grounds on the valve cover, thermostat, and transmission. I even ground down to the metal with a grinding bit so that there was a perfect connection to the chassis with each ground.
So wut can it be?

I would also like to add that my battery light stays on. That is obviously because my alternator is bad...but it wasn't bad before the swap. Could it have gone bad through the continuous cranking over of the motor without it starting?
My battery keeps going dead when I keep trying to start it because the alternator isn't supplying the return current it needs. But even when I jump start my car to another car, my battery doesn't charge up. When I jump start my car to someone else's, my car just keeps turning over and after about 10 seconds you can smell the presence of fuel as if the cylinders are being flooded and theres no spark(although there is). I also did switch the yellow and green wires on the TPS in case you were wondering.


Also, the timing is perfect. The engine was remove from a perfectly running 91 crx si. The timing has not been changed since the engined was removed. I did not replace the timing belt or remove the head (although I should have). I also double checked the timing and it was set correctly to it's specified factory setting.

I've had code 20's in other swaps but I've fixed them before. I'm guessing that this code 20 is the only reason my car won't start. That's the very last thing I can think of.

I'm no newb when it comes to "honda-tuning" but for some reason...I can't get this car started...it baffles me and i'm frustrated because I'm supposed to be an "expert" at this kind of ****. I'm one of the local people that is known for honda swaps but this mpfi conversion has been the toughest one yet...

Please help me...and as i stated above, the person who posts the answer to my starting problems will recieve $50 dollars...on my word.

Here are the only problems I have:
Occasional code 20..........why?

Battery light stays on.........the alternator is bad but that shouldn't keep the car from starting.

Battery won't charge.....even when boosted to another car.

Thanks in advance


Modified by bambam89lx at 2:09 PM 12/20/2003

 

Check the alternator exciter circuit fuse. It also runs a few other circuits in the fuel injection.

 

that's just the fuse labeled "alternator" under the fuse box correct?

 

did you try a new ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grease Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you try a new ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

true... shouldn't you have used the A6 ecu???

Something like this happened to me and it turn out to be the coil of wire in th dizzy that had gotten loose..(don't ask me how) I cleaned it all out, clean the rotor and the car started up... and yes there was spark, but I guess not enough!!!

One last thing... you have gas, spark, compression???, all you need is air(oxigen), have you checked if the throttle body is opening correctly??? just an idea! don't shoot me here!!!

Good luck... I really need those 50$


Modified by joey1320 at 7:23 PM 12/20/2003

 

lol....yah.....I did use the A6 ecu.

First I will check the alternator fuse, then replace the ecu with another A6 one to see if that's it.

I've also replaced the spark plugs, and the coil. I also tested the resistance on the plug wires to see if they were ok and they were.

I don't think it's my cap and rotor....cuz I'm getting spark. Is it possible to not get "enough spark" because when i checked it...the spark seemed minimal.

 

yes it is possible for the car not to start with minimal spark

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grease Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it is possible for the car not to start with minimal spark</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes that's what happened to me... try a new dizy. just in case...
good luck!

 

let us know what happens

 

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just replace each component (cap, rotor, coil) individually?

 

if you want to be cheap but that may not fix the problem... Keep in mind that after you changed the pieces one by one and it didnt work but the problem is the dizzy. You would end up spending more money.

 

try dizzy, solved problems immediately for me

 

Perhaps the lil screw in the dizzy that holds the rotor on came out.. That happened to me the other night

 

The igniter.

 

If your battery wont charge even when jumping try a new battery. Mine did that one, of the sells in it was dead

 

 

hope u get it workin

 

i had this problem before it gave me a big lesson /i had spark fuel compression but motor will not run it would back fire or fill just it s going to start/ i had a cylinder that had only 120psi so i swap out the motor guess what it still doesn t start /so i keep on looking into it /then my shop foremen came and help me out he used a lapscope and watch the waveform of the crankangle sensor and found that i m looseing signal.
(i shouldn t have been ignorent/if i would of just swap out distributors i would ve found my problem)

 

Isnt that what I said? Swap the dizzy with a new one. Problem solved...

 

i think ground prolem .. the ground on thermostat houseing .. make sure you didnt accidently ground the thermostat housing one to the fuse box.. its a common mistake.

 

lots of good info right here, hope my problem isn't caused by the dizzy being bad also.... grease monkey know's his ****, he's been helping me w/ my problem, i'm gonna check timing tomarrow morning i think, maybe late tonight (if i feel like freezing my nuts off) i get no codes, car will idle, but as soon as i depress the gas peddle or open the tb the car wants to stall, my batt light comes on a little, but i think my alt is bad too so i'm gonna swap that out too someday.... i did everything the same way solder/heatshrink tubing/ wire lume/ depinning. and my b16 swap in my 91 was cake, but this is becomeing a pain in the ***.... cursed honda, should have used same harness in all cars

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=710334 my mpfi probs.

 

When I have the money, I am going to buy a brand NEW distributor. But if this fixes the problem, Joey1320 will recieve the 50 dollar reward. But I am trying to find someone to borrow their A6 ecu to see if mine is burnt out.

 

Also, thanks for all the quick responses. I appreciate ur help.....and I hope I get my car running! May be a couple weeks till I can get a brand new dizzy tho. So in the mean time, I'm gonna try all the other ideas listed here

 

pop off your spark plug wires.. pull your plugs out.. put a cap full or oil in each cylinder. but your plugs back in.. but your wires on.. but don't push them down all the way.. just have them in there so they bearly connect to the plugs..(this will make it have a hotter spark).. now try starting it.. make sure you have a good battery so the motor can turn fast enough.. if you got spark, fuel, and compression there is no reason it shouldn't start... hope that helps u

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam89lx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I have the money, I am going to buy a brand NEW distributor. But if this fixes the problem, Joey1320 will recieve the 50 dollar reward. But I am trying to find someone to borrow their A6 ecu to see if mine is burnt out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

woo hoo money

hope it works out. good luck!