Anyone with a roll bar for an EF?
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Re: Anyone with a roll bar for an EF? (Rextified2003)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rextified2003 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, how was the install on the 4 point from I/O. I am very interested. Was there any problems with it
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since he posted earlier today, I don't think he's gotten a chance to even buy one yet... Not sure if either of the other two posters have them but, the 4-point roll bar should be the same as the main hoop portion of the 6-point bolt-in cage. So, from what I remember:
1) Remove both seats.
2) Remove both rear speaker covers (and speakers if you have them).
3) Have a friend help you carry the main hoop through the car. (Outside of this step, everything else can be done by one person)
4) Assemble (slide on) the 2 rear bars, that go into the hatch area, to the main hoop. You can cinch up the nut/bolts at this time.
5) Get the assembly in its intended position and cut the carpet and insulation around the 4 foot-pads.
6) Remove the carpet/insulation underneath the foot pads and reposition the assembly. Ideal to have a metal to metal contact (foot-pad to unibody).
7) Drill holes through the unibody. You can use the 3 holes in each foot-pad as a template. 4 foot pads, 12 holes total.
8) Line the back up plates on the underside of the car. 2 underneath the cabin and 2 in the wheel wells. Secure with the bolts/nuts.
9) Reinstall seats, sell off rear speaker covers, and call it a day.
Optionally, I'd recommend:
1) Replacing the fastening hardware that came with the roll bar/cage. Autopower used to give Grade 5, I went to the HW store and replaced with Grade8 bolts. Or even scour Ebay, NAS and MS stuff pops up for sale all the time.
2) Double nut each bolt. Autopower gives you one nut, I replaced with a Grade8 nut and a nylock.
3) Get some underbody coating in a spray can from the local auto store. Spray all four of the backing plate assemblies to prevent oxidation.
This last tip is more for the bolt-in cage, since it has more junctions. But everywhere there is a junction where a bolt joins the sleeve/tubing, you may consider drilling another set of holes and placing a bolt/nut 90degrees offset from the original. This lets you have a fastener in tension and one in shear for each junction. For the roll bar this would mean two more bolts, one each on the rear tubes.
Edit: This was for a CRX, the hatch should be the same except for where the rear bars attach to the chassis, I don't think you guys have speakers there. So you have to remove whatever is there.
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since he posted earlier today, I don't think he's gotten a chance to even buy one yet... Not sure if either of the other two posters have them but, the 4-point roll bar should be the same as the main hoop portion of the 6-point bolt-in cage. So, from what I remember:
1) Remove both seats.
2) Remove both rear speaker covers (and speakers if you have them).
3) Have a friend help you carry the main hoop through the car. (Outside of this step, everything else can be done by one person)
4) Assemble (slide on) the 2 rear bars, that go into the hatch area, to the main hoop. You can cinch up the nut/bolts at this time.
5) Get the assembly in its intended position and cut the carpet and insulation around the 4 foot-pads.
6) Remove the carpet/insulation underneath the foot pads and reposition the assembly. Ideal to have a metal to metal contact (foot-pad to unibody).
7) Drill holes through the unibody. You can use the 3 holes in each foot-pad as a template. 4 foot pads, 12 holes total.
8) Line the back up plates on the underside of the car. 2 underneath the cabin and 2 in the wheel wells. Secure with the bolts/nuts.
9) Reinstall seats, sell off rear speaker covers, and call it a day.
Optionally, I'd recommend:
1) Replacing the fastening hardware that came with the roll bar/cage. Autopower used to give Grade 5, I went to the HW store and replaced with Grade8 bolts. Or even scour Ebay, NAS and MS stuff pops up for sale all the time.
2) Double nut each bolt. Autopower gives you one nut, I replaced with a Grade8 nut and a nylock.
3) Get some underbody coating in a spray can from the local auto store. Spray all four of the backing plate assemblies to prevent oxidation.
This last tip is more for the bolt-in cage, since it has more junctions. But everywhere there is a junction where a bolt joins the sleeve/tubing, you may consider drilling another set of holes and placing a bolt/nut 90degrees offset from the original. This lets you have a fastener in tension and one in shear for each junction. For the roll bar this would mean two more bolts, one each on the rear tubes.
Edit: This was for a CRX, the hatch should be the same except for where the rear bars attach to the chassis, I don't think you guys have speakers there. So you have to remove whatever is there.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Dallas, Tx, usa
Re: Anyone with a roll bar for an EF? (XrcR6)
Hey, the 4pt Autopower that I got bolts in the same as the crx (to the fenderwells) and I had to remove the speakers/panels aswell. The panels could be trimmed to fit back in w/ some measuring and planning but, why? Bar fit well/easily, and someone can still squeeze their *** through to the back seat if they needed (only through the passenger door). I got mine from a local guy, through eBay, for $26! I did apologize as I was leaving...lol. 
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Baltimore, Md, USA
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Lake Forest, CA, USA
Re: Anyone with a roll bar for an EF? (FourthGenHatch)
or you can get one custom made. there is a truck shop next to where my mechanics is at, they do crazy reinforcing rollbars, custom made to order. i think i'm gonna get them to do mine. i can get a discount and their quality is unbelievable
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From: Monroeville, PA, USA
ANother supplier is KIRK Racing Products in Mt. Olive (Birmingham), Alabama. They build 4-point bars that meet SCCA and NASA rules. We are using their 8-point cage in the CRX and the parts came to us really weel done. I've been to their shop and can tell you they do great work. Give them a call or e-mail. (205-608-1156)
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