Sorry guys im in a huge *** hurry and have no time to search...i just need the thread on a beseries tranny removal because im doing my clutch tommorrow in my GSR....EXEDY Street/Race Twin Plate Clutch

 

I believe http://www.c-speedracing.com has some stuff.

Anyway....here's a basic list.
1. Jack up car
2. Remove front tires
3. Remove axle nuts
4. Remove rotors from lower ball joints (might be tough if you don't know the trick)
5. Pull rotors off axle
6. Remove passenger side axle with prybar
7. Loosen and remove driver's side axle/intermediate shaft (or half shaft)
8. Pop hood and take out all stuff above tranny (intake, etc)
9. Disconnect shift linkage (might be tricky as well)
10. Remove flywheel shield near oil pan
11. Remove tranny mounts (side, top, and umm....rear I think?)
12. Disconnect slave cylinder...well, remove it from that boot thing
13. Remove bolts holding tranny onto block
14. Shake the thing like mad and hope it eventually separates

That's about the basic steps. Kinda tough if you haven't done it before. Definitely get a few buddies if you haven't done this before, because it won't be a short job. My first tranny removal took almost 4 days. Now I can do it in about 1 hour.

 

actually you should remove the axle nuts before jacking the car up... much much easier

rotors dont need to be removed, you can use a gear puller to press the axle out of the hub if is it rusted and stuck. make sure the lower ball joint is separated

if you have aftermarket flywheel and clutch you will prob need to grab 3 extra 10mm 12 point pp bolts.

use threadlock on the flywheel bolts

flywheel bolts are 17mm 12pt

 

drop the trany out of the bottom, that way you dont have to mess with the intake manifold/head or whatever

i droped it out the bottom... very easy

 

REMEMBER TO PULL STARTER OUT might stick...

just something i ran into silly me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually you should remove the axle nuts before jacking the car up... much much easier

rotors dont need to be removed, you can use a gear puller to press the axle out of the hub if is it rusted and stuck. make sure the lower ball joint is separated

if you have aftermarket flywheel and clutch you will prob need to grab 3 extra 10mm 12 point pp bolts.

use threadlock on the flywheel bolts

flywheel bolts are 17mm 12pt</TD></TR></TABLE>

My clutchmasters 7.5lb flywheel came w/ 9 new allen-head bolts, which filled up all the holes in my Clutchmasters clutch.

 

putting the tranny back in is if you don't have a engine lift, just use a jack and have a friend help.

- used the jack to position the tranny. Have someone lift the tranny off the jack (not that heavy), remove the jack quickly and crawl underneath the tranny (again don't be a wuss its not heavy) so that u can leverage it back in place.

- also remember to lube the parts that the helms manual says to lube. when we pop the tranny back on it glided right in with only alittle bit of help, i think its because of the lubing.

 

umm, unless you know what you are doing and have someone that has done it before.

i wouldnt recomend doing the swap yourself.

it can be done, but you have to know how to get axles out, and all the other lil stuff

i hope you have a helms manual to help as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob-DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm, unless you know what you are doing and have someone that has done it before.

i wouldnt recomend doing the swap yourself.

it can be done, but you have to know how to get axles out, and all the other lil stuff

i hope you have a helms manual to help as well</TD></TR></TABLE>

My friend and I changed my clutch and flywheel in only 5 hours in his garage, and it was only our first time doing it w/ the motor in the car. Only other time we had done it was on the motor we swapped into his car, which was our first engine swap, and we changed his clutch and flywheel while the motor was out of the car. We didn't run into any major problems at all.

 

if you have time, patience, and above average wrenching skills it can be done.

just isnt easy

 

yea i did a clutch before on a 91 crx si....but this is the first time im goin at it solo...thanks alot guys

 

oh jeez, by yourself? dang man, can't you get anybody to help ya?

The only way I would attempt a clutch change by myself is if I had a lift w/ an actual transmission jack to help me get the tranny off. That would actually make it really easy.

 

Me and my buddy changed his clutch in his 92gsr in 4 1/2 hours. Total time from pulling car in garage to driving out.

Do the axle nuts while its on the ground. Definately a must.

With a socket set, breaker bar, and friend (who doesn't need to know what he/she's doing) you should be good to go after like 6-8 hrs of work.

Hell, ask ur gf to help if she's down. Mine helped me swapping my engine, cuz most of the time you just need someone to hold a tool, or line up a bolt. Mine was a HUGE help, and she's 5' 8" 105.

But once again, you def. could do it by yourself, it'll prob take about a whole day.

BTW: A transmission doesn't weigh more than like 40 lbs, so if you have enough strength to get through the day, you should be able to pick up and move a transmission. I held mine up while my gf put the bolts in for like 20 mins, i was barely fatigued. But then again, i dunno how you're built.

 

dude i do not know what can of you trannies you are taking down, but none of the trannys i have dropped weighed 40lbs.

 

Cable S1

Frickan light dude, i'm not THAT strong...

 

most important, just look at everything real good, take your time and things will go smooth, you will have more down time if you try to rush things.

 

nah its not that i cant find anyone to help me its that i dont trust there help lol...ive put a motor in by myself before...its not bad and that way you know its not being rigged

 

if its anything like a d16...its not too bad

 

I know I tried to pull my tranny out by myself; i was UNSUCCESSFUL the first time. Just remember that its going to be a full day project and those ball joints are a bitch; my friend broke 2 ball joint seperators just trying to get his off...whast the trick to get these things off....

 

No need to remove Axle nuts... Seperate the axles from the tranny on the Inboard joints and intermediate shaft (if equiped)

 

stick a metal bar between the hub and the lower control arm... you do this by lifting up on the rotor the gap between the hub and control arm will become larger... stick the bar in and lower the rotor and the bar will be pinched between the hub and lca. jump on the rotor with your foot and viola you separate the balljoint. hth

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know I tried to pull my tranny out by myself; i was UNSUCCESSFUL the first time. Just remember that its going to be a full day project and those ball joints are a bitch; my friend broke 2 ball joint seperators just trying to get his off...whast the trick to get these things off....</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stRtypR25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude i do not know what can of you trannies you are taking down, but none of the trannys i have dropped weighed 40lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Devlins 91LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cable S1

Frickan light dude, i'm not THAT strong... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah me and strtypr25 drop tranny's with our teeth , but we wish our Hydro trannys weighed 40lbs....there more like 100.