Clutch / Flywheel probs?
Does anyone think that a vibration at low RPMs (2500-3000, in 1-2-3) would be caused by a flywheel that needs resurfacing? All maintenance has been done religiously so I'm baffled as to what is causing it. The car has 85k miles, just minor bolt ons, stock clutch/flywheel.
dumb question ---> when I disengage the clutch too slowly in first, the car shakes/chatters quite violently. how much of that is caused by the clutch versus the axles/driveshaft?
thx
rich
dumb question ---> when I disengage the clutch too slowly in first, the car shakes/chatters quite violently. how much of that is caused by the clutch versus the axles/driveshaft?
thx
rich
You sure the vibration you are getting isn't from a cracked A pipe?? That will cause the car to vibrate at those rpms....if your car has only 85K then I don't think the flywheel should be that bad....unless you are ruthless to your car. And for the shaking, are you giving the car enough gas when you are disengaging?? I'm not saying you're a crappy driver, just throwing out suggestions...
thanks for your input
i have a dc header so that pretty much cures the a-pipe rattle. the clutch hasnt been chattering until recently too...havent changed my driving technique
i have a dc header so that pretty much cures the a-pipe rattle. the clutch hasnt been chattering until recently too...havent changed my driving technique
First thing to check is the master and slave cylinders - is the mc full? is the fluid dirty? is there air in the line? are they leaking?
If you are on your original clutch, and the mc and sc are ok, I would suspect you have one (or more) of the follwing:
a throw out bearing that is going bad
a bent shift fork - not likely (comments, folks?)
worn out pressure plate
loose spring in the clutch disk - very common
Could be time for a new clutch amigo.
If you are on your original clutch, and the mc and sc are ok, I would suspect you have one (or more) of the follwing:
a throw out bearing that is going bad
a bent shift fork - not likely (comments, folks?)
worn out pressure plate
loose spring in the clutch disk - very common
Could be time for a new clutch amigo.
miketegra: i checked the mc...and it's almost empty, with VERY dirty fluid...doh....then i looked under the clutch pedal and found a leak. the clutch is starting to slip anyway so i guess it's time for a total clutch job!
thx
rich
thx
rich
Glad you got it figured out.
Some may suggest you replace the slave if you are replacing the master. You have to take off the slave when you drop the tranny to replace the clutch anyway, but at the same time, it's not too hard to replace the slave either way (so you could just do it later).
Are you going to do the clutch yourself?
Some may suggest you replace the slave if you are replacing the master. You have to take off the slave when you drop the tranny to replace the clutch anyway, but at the same time, it's not too hard to replace the slave either way (so you could just do it later).
Are you going to do the clutch yourself?
i've decided to get the whole thing done, including master and slave cylinders, resurfaced flywheel, new bearings, etc. i found a reputable clutch specialist who will install everything for $240, including a year warranty on labor.
i'm not keeping the car long, and just need something to make the car drive nice and smooth again. from a cost perspective, should i just go with an OEM itr clutch or something like a stage one clutchmasters/clutchnet/act?
thx again!
rich
i'm not keeping the car long, and just need something to make the car drive nice and smooth again. from a cost perspective, should i just go with an OEM itr clutch or something like a stage one clutchmasters/clutchnet/act?
thx again!
rich
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If you are not going to keep the car too much longer, I suggest you go with the ITR clutch - I figure it would be cheaper anyway. A potential buyer would probably feel better knowing it had an "OEM Honda" clutch, if they even ask about it.
Unless you like a stiffer pedal or are not happy with the OEM set up, or you are putting down some serious power, I would go ITR.
Unless you like a stiffer pedal or are not happy with the OEM set up, or you are putting down some serious power, I would go ITR.
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