D16Y8 swap wrap up (need some help)
Well, the Y8 is dropped into my 90 si. It idles bad because it's running with an auto intake. Anyways, it seems to be leaking oil. The guys that did the swap say its either the crank seal or oil pump. What would be more likely, and how would I be able to tell?
its probably the crank seal, you can tell by sticking your head under there and seeing where the leak is coming from. usually when engine get old the front and rear main seals start to leak
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its probably the crank seal, you can tell by sticking your head under there and seeing where the leak is coming from. usually when engine get old the front and rear main seals start to leak</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm one of the installers.
The leak is coming from BEHIND the bottom of the lower timing belt cover... right below the oil pump.
I'm one of the installers.
The leak is coming from BEHIND the bottom of the lower timing belt cover... right below the oil pump.
a pic would be nice because i am unfamilar with how the y8s are set up. now correct me if im wrong, but isnt the oil pan right before the oil pump, so maybe its leaking from the oil pan gasket, but again im not in your position so i cant say for definite. if it was the front main seal it would be leaking from the big circle in the oil pump where hte damper bolts up to, which is the crank, now if it was the oil pump gasket, then u would see oil leaking between the oil pump and the block itself and if it were the oil pan gasket then it could leak any where on the bottom of the oil pump. who knows the oil pump could be cracked
but again to be absolutly sure u would have to take off the damper and pull of the timing belt covers to expose everything and then u can see definetly where its leaking from and whats wrong
but again to be absolutly sure u would have to take off the damper and pull of the timing belt covers to expose everything and then u can see definetly where its leaking from and whats wrong
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now that is very funny, talk about not knowing engines, and u actually let him swap it for you
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Why you talking ****, ***?
You try wrenching on a motor all day for 2 days, till 3:30 AM at night... doing an entire obd-1 conversion with no jumper harness... and see if you get it perfect!!!! You moron. We've done 4 swaps now! We know our ****! One little mistake!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why you talking ****, ***?
You try wrenching on a motor all day for 2 days, till 3:30 AM at night... doing an entire obd-1 conversion with no jumper harness... and see if you get it perfect!!!! You moron. We've done 4 swaps now! We know our ****! One little mistake!!!!
im not questioning your swap capabilities, im questioning your knowledge on the internals of engines because for 1. if you couldnt help him and fix something as simple as that then it shows you dont know engines themselves too well, 2. if you didnt even take the time to take off the damper and timing cover to see exactly where its coming from, it again shows you dont know engines too good because that is really simple.
not when someone says oh the leak is coming from below the oil pump, when its coming all the way from the top from the valve cover. it just shows you dont know engines real good. i personally would never let anyone who didnt know engines do a swap for me, but i dont need someone else to do it because i myself have done a couple swap including an ls in my dx hatch.
not when someone says oh the leak is coming from below the oil pump, when its coming all the way from the top from the valve cover. it just shows you dont know engines real good. i personally would never let anyone who didnt know engines do a swap for me, but i dont need someone else to do it because i myself have done a couple swap including an ls in my dx hatch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not questioning your swap capabilities, im questioning your knowledge on the internals of engines because for 1. if you couldnt help him and fix something as simple as that then it shows you dont know engines themselves too well, 2. if you didnt even take the time to take off the damper and timing cover to see exactly where its coming from, it again shows you dont know engines too good because that is really simple.
not when someone says oh the leak is coming from below the oil pump, when its coming all the way from the top from the valve cover. it just shows you dont know engines real good. i personally would never let anyone who didnt know engines do a swap for me, but i dont need someone else to do it because i myself have done a couple swap including an ls in my dx hatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hindsight is 20/20. What's the point of your post other than to point fingers? How about offering help rather than derision? Perhaps if you'd taken your time to read the post you would have noted it came from behind the crank pulley, not running down the outside of the timing cover. It had obviously travelled between the block and the plastic of the timing cover. Without examining the seal there was no way to know. If you "know engines good" as you claim you'd know that oil doesn't fill the timing belt cavity
The only oil was at the base of the timing cover, from behind the plastic. Guess what resides there? Oil pump and main seal.
CroSi, I recommend checking your timing belt for oil soak. With a leak that high up it's quite possible some oil got onto the belt. If that's so I recommend changing it. Oil will weaken the belt and make it more prone to snapping. Just pull the valvecover (use 10mm sockets to remove the valvecover nuts). Rotate the crank 360 using a socket on the crank pulley. If it's too hard to turn remove the spark plugs to prevent compression from building. While you're turning it check the belt when it passes over the top of the cam gear for oil patches or discolouration. If there's nothing on it, you're fine. The valvecover should be reinstalled with about 7 ft-lbs of torque on the cover bolts. That's firm, but not tight if you don't have a torque wrench. Remember to only rotate the crank counter-clockwise - as if you were loosening the crank pulley bolt.
If it's bad, pick up a belt and bring it back. We'll install it for you for free.
not when someone says oh the leak is coming from below the oil pump, when its coming all the way from the top from the valve cover. it just shows you dont know engines real good. i personally would never let anyone who didnt know engines do a swap for me, but i dont need someone else to do it because i myself have done a couple swap including an ls in my dx hatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hindsight is 20/20. What's the point of your post other than to point fingers? How about offering help rather than derision? Perhaps if you'd taken your time to read the post you would have noted it came from behind the crank pulley, not running down the outside of the timing cover. It had obviously travelled between the block and the plastic of the timing cover. Without examining the seal there was no way to know. If you "know engines good" as you claim you'd know that oil doesn't fill the timing belt cavity
The only oil was at the base of the timing cover, from behind the plastic. Guess what resides there? Oil pump and main seal. CroSi, I recommend checking your timing belt for oil soak. With a leak that high up it's quite possible some oil got onto the belt. If that's so I recommend changing it. Oil will weaken the belt and make it more prone to snapping. Just pull the valvecover (use 10mm sockets to remove the valvecover nuts). Rotate the crank 360 using a socket on the crank pulley. If it's too hard to turn remove the spark plugs to prevent compression from building. While you're turning it check the belt when it passes over the top of the cam gear for oil patches or discolouration. If there's nothing on it, you're fine. The valvecover should be reinstalled with about 7 ft-lbs of torque on the cover bolts. That's firm, but not tight if you don't have a torque wrench. Remember to only rotate the crank counter-clockwise - as if you were loosening the crank pulley bolt.
If it's bad, pick up a belt and bring it back. We'll install it for you for free.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not questioning your swap capabilities, im questioning your knowledge on the internals of engines because for 1. if you couldnt help him and fix something as simple as that then it shows you dont know engines themselves too well, 2. if you didnt even take the time to take off the damper and timing cover to see exactly where its coming from, it again shows you dont know engines too good because that is really simple.
not when someone says oh the leak is coming from below the oil pump, when its coming all the way from the top from the valve cover. it just shows you dont know engines real good. i personally would never let anyone who didnt know engines do a swap for me, but i dont need someone else to do it because i myself have done a couple swap including an ls in my dx hatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. You must be really proud. We've done a total of 4 here in my garage... So Raene and I must know something about motors by now. Done 3 OBD-I conversions, plus cam swaps, head gaskets, LS fifth gear conversions, you name it. I've been working on cars for 5 years now... So before you belittle my knowledge of engines, why not get the facts straight. Also, the gentleman who assisted with the swap has a 13.0 second N/A Honda... he is one of the most knowledgable guys I know around here. There was no lack of knowledge in our garage. I must be doing something right to run Mid 14's with my home installed, home prepped, near bone stock B16A.
Not trying to make excuses, but we were TIRED when we finished... it's easy to miss little things like that. Not to mention the oil was dripping right from the spot where a crank seal normally leaks. I didn't see any other oil dripping off the valve cover and down the side of the engine. Also, CroSi was here and ready to pick up his car, waiting for us to finish... we usually spend 15 or 20 minutes going over everything, but we were in a rush. I know it sucks *** that we missed the leak and it's embarrasing, but **** happens... He was ready to go, and I had a final the next day (today). His car is fine, and we'll figure out the other problems he's having.
You really know how to talk **** on the internet. It's people like you who come on here, belittle others, and generally turn threads like this to ****. How the **** do you know how much I know or don't know about engines? Why not grab a brain before posting this kind of ****...
Sorry to everyone else... but this had to be said. This guy just gets under my skin.
not when someone says oh the leak is coming from below the oil pump, when its coming all the way from the top from the valve cover. it just shows you dont know engines real good. i personally would never let anyone who didnt know engines do a swap for me, but i dont need someone else to do it because i myself have done a couple swap including an ls in my dx hatch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow. You must be really proud. We've done a total of 4 here in my garage... So Raene and I must know something about motors by now. Done 3 OBD-I conversions, plus cam swaps, head gaskets, LS fifth gear conversions, you name it. I've been working on cars for 5 years now... So before you belittle my knowledge of engines, why not get the facts straight. Also, the gentleman who assisted with the swap has a 13.0 second N/A Honda... he is one of the most knowledgable guys I know around here. There was no lack of knowledge in our garage. I must be doing something right to run Mid 14's with my home installed, home prepped, near bone stock B16A.
Not trying to make excuses, but we were TIRED when we finished... it's easy to miss little things like that. Not to mention the oil was dripping right from the spot where a crank seal normally leaks. I didn't see any other oil dripping off the valve cover and down the side of the engine. Also, CroSi was here and ready to pick up his car, waiting for us to finish... we usually spend 15 or 20 minutes going over everything, but we were in a rush. I know it sucks *** that we missed the leak and it's embarrasing, but **** happens... He was ready to go, and I had a final the next day (today). His car is fine, and we'll figure out the other problems he's having.
You really know how to talk **** on the internet. It's people like you who come on here, belittle others, and generally turn threads like this to ****. How the **** do you know how much I know or don't know about engines? Why not grab a brain before posting this kind of ****...
Sorry to everyone else... but this had to be said. This guy just gets under my skin.
Raene and Mr. S are good guys and are very knowledgeable. Other people thought twice about my swap when I asked them to do it, but these guys were very reluctant and helpful. The wiring is a nightmare, these guys had the patience and precision to do a perfect job. I paid them to do the swap and convert to OBD1 and that's what they did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CroSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raene and Mr. S are good guys and are very knowledgeable. Other people thought twice about my swap when I asked them to do it, but these guys were very reluctant and helpful. The wiring is a nightmare, these guys had the patience and precision to do a perfect job. I paid them to do the swap and convert to OBD1 and that's what they did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you!!!
The most important part is that you're happy. Check your IM.
Thank you!!!
The most important part is that you're happy. Check your IM.
you see, when your looking at a oil leak and u dont do something as simple as take off the crank pulley and the timing covers to eliminate the possiblities then it shows either laziness or a lack of knowledge and could turn into something expensive when it wasnt needed or could cause alot of damage to the engine. and all the things u said you did are very easy things but then again working on engines in general is very easy too.
and i did help and gave you guys possible thing that were wrong, and i said to take off the crank pulley and timing belt covers to eliminate the possibility of it coming from someplace higher, see i was thinking
and i did help and gave you guys possible thing that were wrong, and i said to take off the crank pulley and timing belt covers to eliminate the possibility of it coming from someplace higher, see i was thinking
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civickiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you see, when your looking at a oil leak and u dont do something as simple as take off the crank pulley and the timing covers to eliminate the possiblities then it shows either laziness or a lack of knowledge and could turn into something expensive when it wasnt needed or could cause alot of damage to the engine. and all the things u said you did are very easy things but then again working on engines in general is very easy too.
and i did help and gave you guys possible thing that were wrong, and i said to take off the crank pulley and timing belt covers to eliminate the possibility of it coming from someplace higher, see i was thinking</TD></TR></TABLE>
But the problem is, you were essentially calling me a retard. I know it's very easy to take off a crank pulley. However, an oil leak like that isn't going to make the motor explode. We got under there and took a look and all the oil was coming from below the crank pulley, NONE from the upper timing cover. So it was pretty likely that that was the problem. Yes, if we weren't stone tired and had more time we would have had a closer look.
I'm done arguing with you.
and i did help and gave you guys possible thing that were wrong, and i said to take off the crank pulley and timing belt covers to eliminate the possibility of it coming from someplace higher, see i was thinking</TD></TR></TABLE>
But the problem is, you were essentially calling me a retard. I know it's very easy to take off a crank pulley. However, an oil leak like that isn't going to make the motor explode. We got under there and took a look and all the oil was coming from below the crank pulley, NONE from the upper timing cover. So it was pretty likely that that was the problem. Yes, if we weren't stone tired and had more time we would have had a closer look.
I'm done arguing with you.
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wicked_gk
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Nov 25, 2008 04:44 PM





