My car's check engine light is on after installed VAFC II last night. I'm sure the wiring is correct(Checked for mroe than 3 times); however, there's no more VTec kick in singal from ECU anymore, which mean if I don't set the VAFC Vtec kick in point, the car won't have Vtec kick in.

I suspect the connection of my original vtec wire to ECU is lost. If so, would that make the check engine light on? Are there any other reasons that would block the ECu Vtec kick in singal.

 

after you installed it, did you set the initial settings before you started the car or did you just start the car and run it into VTEC?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer9k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after you installed it, did you set the initial settings before you started the car or did you just start the car and run it into VTEC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian2903 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car's check engine light is on after installed VAFC II last night. I'm sure the wiring is correct(Checked for mroe than 3 times); however, there's no more VTec kick in singal from ECU anymore, which mean if I don't set the VAFC Vtec kick in point, the car won't have Vtec kick in.

I suspect the connection of my original vtec wire to ECU is lost. If so, would that make the check engine light on? Are there any other reasons that would block the ECu Vtec kick in singal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you use the POS connectors that they supply with it or did you do it properly and solder them?

if you used the connectors i would remove those and solder them (i suspect you dont know how since you didnt do it in the first place) so find someone who can solder and do it right.

if you soldered it, check your wiring. check your solder joints, make sure that there are no burn marks on either the solder or the wiring. pull on the connections as well. if they break off then you had a "cold" solder joint and that is bad.

Doug

 

I did the initial set up before I start the engine and I didn't use the connector which they provide.
However, I'd like to do the initial set up again, what should I do in order to reset the VAFC?

 

not sure exactly how to reset the VAFC, but just try to set it to the intitial settings first and see if it changes anything

 

I did set it to initial again, but nothing happened.

By the way, the rev Limited drop down to 6480rpm instead of the stock 7000rpm.

 

bump

 

What code is it? That would help narrow it down.

 

The code is 2 long 1 short

 

Did you try resetting the ECU and clearing it?

That might help. ;0)

 

Yes, I do. I unplug the battery for 15 mins to reset the ECU

But, do we have other way to reset the ECU?

 

I reseted the EUC by takle out the fuse of ECU; however, it doesn't help

 

Code 21 - Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control (Vtec) Solenoid Valve.

Check you electrical connection at the solenoid. Also, look at ALL fuses and make sure non are blown. Reset the ECU - to really know for 100% sure that the ECU was reset - I usually remove the connectors on the ECU itself.

Start car, wait for normal operating temp. and go drive and get into the Vtec range and if you still ge the CEL.

 

Do anyone know how exactly connect the VTM wire?

 

And I brought my car to Honda today, they help me to put the lossing Vtec wire back to the ECU. They said the check engine light goes off right after they did that; however, when they go test drive the car the engine light comes on again.

Anyways, still no Vtec from the stock ECU.

 

bump